LairdScooby

Re-invent

Horse

Generator

Hmmmm, sounds like what i refer to as a "compound fault" - one that has one set of symptoms but multiple causes. These usually only become apparent when one of them is fixed and cures part of the fault. It does sond like the catalogue of problems i have had with my Honda which started when i got it with the EML on and 12 1/2 months MoT - alarm bells immediately! The code putting the EML on was the knock sensor, Honda very cleverly hid this tiny little sensor where only contortionists with the reach of Guy the Gorilla and fingers/hands as small as Thumbelina could reach it. I had to create a tool using my 1/4" drive socket set and some 6mm bore fuel hose and a few other imaginative bits to be able to change it. All was good until the front brakes decided to start binding for no apparent reason, throwing the engine load/mixture out and causing the knock sensor light to reappear, aided and abetted by the PCV valve being weak and the hose to said PCV valve collapsing when warm. All of this has largely been intermittent so has been a nightmare to track down and much of it has been guesswork/hunches but on the upside, it has still been reliable. It's reading between the lines on fault codes on many occasions that lead to the real fault.

Reactor

Fusion

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/134657907825 There you are Dominic, that should do everything you need it to do and it has free updates via USB so you can download to your PC then link to this unit and update it. Might even get one myself, i have an i-Carsoft JLR OBD-II reader that i bought used but as new condition from someone on here but would be handy to keep one of these in the Honda (especially at the moment!) insted of the i-Carsoft one.

Corona (discharge from HT tracking)

Crikey Dominic, i'd be a cheap neighbour as i barely drink! Was it Southwold? Many pleasure boats seem to find their way there. Switching the EML off just before the MoT is definitely one way round the problem, someone did that with my Honda before i bought it and i've had fun and games sorting it out as it wasn't as simple as a duff sensor! Turned out to be a brake problem that i'm currently fighting my way through - latest thing i will be fitting is a replacement ABS ECU/modulator assembly but many of the problems have been caused by poor and/or neglected servicing. When i get a minute (or 10!) i'll trawl ebay and find what should be a suitable OBD code reader and post a link on here for you.

Greyhound

Motor

Road

Cardinal

It's not quite as scary as it may sond Dominic, on each cat there is a pre-cat and a post-cat Lambda sensor which some refer to as Oxygen sensors. The pre-cat sensors check the mixture as it leaves the cylinders and the post-cat sensors check the mixture to ensure there is a higher oxygen content (and therefore lower CO content) to make certain the cats are working. These sensors have an internal heater to get them to work faster from cold, if it's one of the heaters gone then that sensor won't respond as it should but economy and performance should remain unaffected. It will bring the EML on though as the ECU will detect the heater not working. Sometimes people misinterpret the heater not working as the cat not getting up to temperature and not working, this isn't always the case though. This is why i asked for the exact code you were getting. I thought you had a code reader from how you mentioned things earlier but re-reading it, i think i was wrong. It's worth investing in even a cheap one so you can read (and often reset) the codes yourself. You can pick them up on ebay for under £20, there are some under a tenner even but very basic. Will be interested in hearing what this new garage has to say - also it's an MoT failure to have an EML on at the time of the test.

Point

Sentence

Tiara

Railway

What is the exact code the is reported Dominic? Usually the Lambda sensors fail rather than the cats and they are considerably cheaper to replace (but ideally need to be replaced as a full set) so i'd be checking the exact code number to ascertain whether it is the Lambda sensor, the heater in the Lambda sensor or whether it is in fact the cat. With the EML on, you'll be in restricted performance of some description even if not full Limp Mode so you'll have higher fuel bills and reduced performance.

Thanks Dominic. I've learned a lot about the S Type in the past 18 months or so, it's my 3rd Jag and a total departure from the previous two, a Series III XJ6 Sovereign 4.2 and an XJ40 Sovereign 3.6 - in many respects the S Type is in a bit of a world of its own. Hope your recovery continues well!

Burglar

Wise

Minute

Cambridge (a place near Newnham without a Bottom!)

I also try to keep my diet healthy (ish) Dominic for a variety of medical reasons but something i do every morning is instead of sweetener in my second coffee, i have two spoons of runny honey - the natural antiseptic/immune boosting effect seems to ward off most common ills thankfully. Hmmm, i wonder if perhaps the garage wanted the job of replacing the headlamp to boost their labour revenue? When i first got my S Type, it had fairly bad cataracts on the headlamps and for some unknown reason, people kept flashing me on my first nocturnal outing in it. The lack of forward vision was worrying but i did notice the lights seemed to be pointing everywhere except where they should be! Further investigation found the adjuster were siezed and broken, allowing the reflectors to move around like a loose leaf in autumn. A reproduction kit from ebay fixed the adjusters and T-Cut and elbow grease polished the lenses back to clear. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/225508928142 I needed an extra 2 sets of cogs (one per headlight) as there is only one per headlight supplied. These are for the normal headlights with halogen bulbs (i've fitted LED bulbs in the outer pair, vast improvement!), not the HID/Xenon variety as fitted to the S Type R and (i believe) optional on others. As far as i'm aware, the normal headlights were the same across production years but make sure the connector plugs look the same just to be on the safe side. So far, all parts i've wanted/needed have been available on ebay but it's often helped that i am able to do research into what else fits, even if not listed as fitting. For example, a new crank position sensor (CPS) i had to fit just over a year ago : https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234276747755 Jaguar and specialists wanted 10x that amount! 😮 Also ordered a screenwash pump which turned out to be shared with the Volvo S80 and a plethora of Fords from the mid-80s onwards including Sierra, Mondeo, transit and other models - Jaguar = £96, Volvo = £48, Ford £24 all for the same pump, ebay £8. I believe they changed the pump on 2002 onwards cars so this may not be relevant for yours but you get the idea!