LairdScooby

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Are you using the AC by any chance? If so, try turning it off...........

I think in your position, i would find someone selling parts from a complete car that was running and is being broken due to terminal rot, accident damage or similar. Buy the complete set of ECU, transponder, fob and any others you might need to fit a set and get it running. I'm relatively new to Jags so don't know which ones exactly you'll need, on a Rover 800 i'd say ECU, CCU, reciever, transponder key and fob and know you'd be good to go. I'm sure someone with a bit more product knowledge on Jags will be able to give you chapter and verse on which modules/ECUs you'll need exactly. Also have you tried a reset on your car to see if that resolves the problem? I know a neighbour bought a Ford Kuga that had been spiked and it cost him near £2k for diagnostics and secondhand ECUs......

Dredger (worked on marine aggregate dredgers ~30 years back and saw sat-nav before it was a thing for cars - some bloke called Tom Tom beat me to the market and stole my riches! 😛 )

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Glad you reminded me about this subject, since i welded the sills for the MoT, the back end has been tighter on mine - funny thing is none of the suspension mounting points were near where i had to weld! Good news you're nearly sorted on yours now! 😉 😄

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You may well find you need most of what's there, if the ECU is coded to the key you can hide the key behind the steering column cowl and it should bypass the immobiliser for you. Yours is a later one with electronic parking brake then? There must be some connection from that to the ECU so it releases when you apply throttle (i'm guessing it's auto?) so that you can drive off. I hope the garages diagnostic process is correct, at least you'll have a spare set of ECUs/modules etc if not.

Volvo (the Volvo logo is not only the modern symbol for "male" but also an older symbol for iron)

Excellent news - i wasn't sure on the matching numbers bit, on some Rover 800s they absolutely have to match, others can be "near enough" and as i pointed out, i'm not sure on Jag ECUs at the moment. Hopefully your new ECU will get you up and running again! 😉 😄

It sounds very much like the ECU is doing exactly what it's told to do - you need to investigate the sensors for the two sides (driver and passenger) and clean their housings as it's possible the drivers side is colder than it should be rather than the passengers side being warmer than it should be. Usually they are NTC thermistors so you could fudge the temperature with either a series resistor or a parallel resistor but i would suggest cleaning both sensors and their housigns first and then swap the sensors from one side to another to see if the fault moves.

Wrought

You can set both to Low and then just use the drivers control to control both sides at the same temperature, saves fiddling about with FETs etc.

They all left the factory without due to a change of law meaning we were no longer permitted to disembowel pedestrians with the leaper - this is why Rolls-Royce made the Spirit of Ecstasy autoatmically retract into the bonnet (hood) and why the leapers are now spring mounted, that's how it was got round. Prices vary according to country and supplier as can be seen above.

There should be a permanent +12V feed to both halves of the DCCV, the AC control Module takes the output low (and cycles it using PWM) to close the valve(s) and the module output is connected to the other side from the +12V feed - in other words when the valve is powered, it closes. Had a similar problem on mine when i bought it, turned out to be a fusebox problem..........