LairdScooby

Cadillac

Do you know what fluid was used in the box? I have a couple of ideas but some more info is needed before i have any firm ideas of where to start looking.

Hi Fiona, just to clarify, restricted performance is in fact limp mode. It should be ok to drive but expect lower performance and hgher fuel consumption. If you can find an alternative route avoiding the motorway, i think i would probably do that, not that it's likely to break down but if it did, at least you wouldn't be stuck on the motorway. My thoughts are with you for your mum, i also have a (sort of) family member in hospital at the moment so i understand what you're going through, hope both your mum and car make speedy recoveries!

Welcome aboard Jacques! Check your sills, particularly the rear ends of them as they have a habit of being the first places to corrode badly, often hidden behind plastic covers. Good luck with your X Type, they're good cars! 😉 😄

Panther

Supermarine

Roundel

Specific

Don't ignore the warning light Cyril, it's there for a reason. If it's on when it shouldn't be, the charging system is definitely NOT working fine! What makes you think it is fine? Without looking at a diagram and not knowing that model, i can only make assumptions but either way, something is bringing the w/light on. Worst case scenario is the alternator isn't charging at all - it might be putting out enough voltage to appear to be charging on a basic voltage charging test but not putting out enough current to cover everything needed just for basic running. End result will be a non-start but in the meantime, rough running is likely to happen with the potential for ECU damage. Best case scenario is a fault in the w/light circuit and the alternator is charging on residual magnetism in the unit in which case the flat battery will likely be avoided but the alternator is likely to be damaged ultimately. Get it back to that garage, if they try and fob you off, find a good autoelectrican near you and get a second opinion. Even if you have to pay for that and seek recompense from the supplying dealer under warranty you should get it sorted.

Rocket

Club

Sentence (as in marriage isn't a word but a sentence)

Razzle

Light

Syrup of figs = wig (wigs) in Rhyming Slang John as in "Elton John wears a syrup".

Syrup

Justice

Attack

From the article John : If you've ever tried to start a car that's already running you'll have discovered that it makes a hideous crunching sound as the starter pinion tries to engage with a rapidly spinning flywheel! As a result single solenoid Stop-Start systems can pause the starting process and prevent the engine from starting until it's fully stopped – this isn't ideal as the car doesn't start 'on demand' but a moment later. A tandem solenoid works by spinning up the starter pinion to synchronise it with the flywheel, then the second solenoid seamlessly engages the gear. Highlighted and underlined the relevant bit - surely a contradiction in terms? The idea is to prevent the graunching of the starter pinion on a turning flywheel/ring gear so by spinning a starter pinion up and engaging with a ring gear (moving or not) the effect would be the same as trying to engage a stationary pinion with a spinning ring gear. Maybe it's just that haynes haven't explained it all that well but either way, a solenoid has a hefty current draw and i'm struggling to reconcile the concept of an excessive current draw with the need to start 50uS quicker than the conventional arrangement. More research is needed i think! *** EDIT *** Having done a bit more digging, it appears that is exactly how the sytem works. I'm much more used to starters that turn the engine at 250-300rpm to start them, it seems the newer motors are capable of spinning much faster to enable meshing with the ring gear at the same speed but it must be a very critical line of getting the two speeds matched! 😮 Also discovered the Permanently Engaged starter which presumably has a starter clutch inside to connect the starter pinion to the motor. Definitely Marmite!

Blood-bath

Phlebotomist

Errr, i beg to differ - pre-engaged starters have been around for donkeys years and holding the pinion in so it was "ready" to restart would cause a considerable battery drain (~30A usually for hold-in current) which would flatten the battery fairly quickly. Also because of how the starter solenoid operates, it pulls the pinon into engagement and then makes the circuit but there are no half-measures - it pulls in and then the contacts are automatically closed so the motor operates.

Nemesis

Sunbeam

Holy thread resurrection Batman! A year on, i finally got the Adamesh rer silencers fitted today! Ordered them back in May, arrived in June 😮 and life has got in the way of living since! Went to fit them last week only to discover they'd sent a pair of S Type R rear silencers! All fairness to Adamesh, they sent a replacement pair out and have arranged to collect the wrong pair. I need to fabricate a new bracket for the NS hanger (that will be another thread though) but the (correct) silencers fitted easily and sound great - exactly what i was after in fact! Nice burble on idle, slight rasp with a louder growl on acceleration and just as quiet cruising. That said my test drive didn't really get up to real cruising speeds but knowing how it sounds at various speeds, fairly certain at cruising speeds it will be quiet still. I now have a pair of standard rear silencers, free to a good home. They're 24 years old and still look like new amazingly!