LairdScooby

Routine

According to the link i posted above Frank, a new genuine Jaguar leaper for the S Type is ~125 Euros or ~£108 give or take for the exchange rate. They also do an aftermarket new one for 29 Euros so ~£25. Haven't found a UK supplier yet but i looked on adamesh.co.uk and they only list an Arden leaper for £499! 😮 Daresay you can find used ones on fleabay for as you suggest, £40-50 in excellent condition.

Computer

It could be sudden catastrophic failure on the Crank Position Sensor (CPS) which i had on my S Type about 9 months ago. They're only about £15-20 on ebay so almost worth throwing one at it to see if it cures it.

I'm not sure on Jaguar ECUs but i know Rover 800 ECUs the last two digits denoted a build code/date so arguably could be interchanged (subject to reprogramming for the immobiliser etc) and on Fords, it was the "Finis Code", almost the same thing i believe. Hopefully someone will be along soon with more in-depth knowledge of the Jaguar numbering system.

Sorry to disagree but i wouldn't use any - i'd find a proper bolt-on jobby! 😮 Seriously, if that chunk of metal comes loose at mortorway speeds, you may have trouble explaing to the nice A&E doctor how come you're wearing a leaper so far up your nose! 😮 Aftermarket bolt-on leapers are available new from this place in France, about 30 Euros although they can supply the genuine Jaguar leaper by special order for .................................. .......................................... wait for it............................. ........................ about 125 Euros All plus P&P and potentially Customs Import Duty of course!

Stroke

Rifle

Shot ( opposite of [it']scold 😛 )

Admonish

True

Curious

Explores

If you open the throttle does it keep running longer?

Excursions

Elephant

I think that's why many of us are here, i've had a fair bit of advice and gained a lot of knowledge on here, as well as finding out a lot myself through research. Hoping to nurse mine through for a few more decades yet, it was a demonstrator originally then a one owner car until his demise when i bought it and became the second owner. I suspect in his final few years, the previous owner wasn't quite as fastidious as he originally was but overall, mine appears to have been fairly well taken care of. They all need TLC sooner or later though, those with errrrrrrrrr..................... "less cosseted" cars will no doubt find those tasks of TLC sooner than the rest of us and hopefully we can learn from them.

Compost

Just to clarify, the mirror hunts from left to right, not up and down when reverse is selected? Assuming you have the ideal normal position set in the memory, try adjusting the mirror left/right (past the limits it goes to when reverse is selected) and then hit the Memory button to bring it back to where it should be. Do this several times and then try reverse again. My theory is the tracks on the pots that give feedback of the mirror position have become dirty so the ECU that controls the mirror is trying to find that spot where it gets the correct feedback. Hopefully this will fix it, there may be a recalibration procedure for the mirrors that i'm not aware of (usually after a battery disconnect/flat battery) that might also fix things, other than that i think you'll need a code reader to see if any codes are present and then maybe investigate whichever ECU (General Electronic Module perhaps) controls the mirrors.

Prawn

Always sad when a once great car gets neglected in its "mid life". Hopefully you've caught it soon enough to give it some TLC and avoid any unnecessary repairs in the long term.

Monarchy

That sounds about right! I gave up trying to fdrive "sensibly" or "economically" when i discovered the best cruising speed for economy was an indicated 78mph on mine (actually ~73mph by GPS) and "!Removed!-footing" during acceleration wasn't exactly helpful either. Takes a bit of trial and error to find the best speeds etc but you'll get there.

If it did, it would make it cold due to air locks or just no coolant going through the heater matrices. When you take it into the garage, have a good look at the rear ends of the sills, the sill covers can hide a good few sins! 😮 That was my drivers side sill at the back, t'other side was similar. Worth checking and nipping in the bud sooner rather than later, i also had a hole in the passenger sill near the A pillar which was covered by the sill cover so wasn't seen by the tester at MoT time, i will be fixing it soon though. Then painting and treating, probably with : https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334562128817 When it comes back into stock!

That's a shame Bob, we know the DCCV is getting a feed from the fuse as the passenger side varies the temperature so that points to either the DCCV or the Climate Control Module. I'm wondering if it's possible to interrogate the climate pack with a code reader that has diagnostics on it?