LairdScooby

Vegetarian

Badger

Muntjac

If the 100Ah/900CCA will physically fit, get that one. Alternatively, have a look here : https://advancedbatterysupplies.co.uk/shop/?swoof=1&product_brand=diesel-all-models-2008-present A good selection from £95 upwards to £240..........

Desert

Maybe once a fortnight or once a month, take it for a longer run to give it a bit of a concentrated charge to help get round this problem. I use a 1988 Volvo 760 as my "Dogmobile" so its use is predominantly very short runs, however every once in a while i'll take it for a longer run to recharge the battery and blow the cobwebs out.

A fully charged battery is 12.7V : Your alternator should put out in the region of 15.1-14.7V depending whether cold or hot, the voltage may go up slightly on the upper level due to certain things like load etc, especially at idle but the battery is almost certainly a calcium/silver-calcium type which refers to the doping on the plates to prevent sulphation."Normal" lead-acid batteries have lead-antimony doping and need 14.4-13.8V to charge, the calcium increases the charging voltage by 0.1V/cell and with 6 cells, each of 2.2V (total 13.2V) you can see where the extra 0.6V of charging voltage is needed. With so much electronics on cars thse days and so many things referenced to a stabilised supply of 5V, 10V, 12V etc and a variable battery voltage, it's easy to see if the battery drops below a certain level of charge, strange things will happen. To put this into perspective, many sensors work on the potential divider principle where two resistors in series divide the battery voltage. One of those resistors will be the sensor but these derived voltages will be compared to a known voltage from one of the stabilised supplies. To make the figures easy, let's say one of the stabilised reference voltages is 6V. Let's make a sensor where the resistance is 6k and is fed by a 6k current limiting resistor which provides a total of 12k Ohms. Call the sensor R1 and the limiting resistor R2, the voltage developed across R1 = VR1 = Vb x (R1/(R1 + R2) so in this example, VR1 = 6/12 x Vb (Vb is battery voltage) so at 12V, VR1 will be 6V. If the threshold for a fault is 5.9V compared to the stabilised 6V supply, no fault will be shown but if the battery voltage drops to 11.5V, VR1 will also drop to 5.75V and hence register a fault. Bit long-winded for a simple explanation but hopefully gives an insight into how these things work!

Quagmire

Swamp

Tsunami

It would seem the OE part is discontinued now so you stand very little chance of getting it, even if you've found it listed. However here's a couple of alternatives : https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jaguar,2000,s-type,3.0l+v6,1363294,engine,timing+chain+&+component+kit,5756 I've been using Rock Auto for about a decade, mainly for Volvo parts as my model Volvo isn't well supported in the UK and the predecessor to my S Type was also better supported in the USA than here and never had a bad part from them yet. Even with Shipping and Handling (S&H) it's unlikely to come to 400 Euros but be careful with your local customs and excise - there is usually a shipping option that is more expensive than the others and this prepays any import duty that will be charged and delivers the item to your door without going through customs and the delay and charges that will attract. It also gets round the fluctuating exchange rate - i bought something about 6 years ago, below the threshold (on the day i bought it due to a stronger pound/£) but on the day it went through customs, the £ was weaker and it crept just over the threshold - got charged import duty and a fee for the Royal Mail to send a card telling me this and a further fee for them to collect the import duty! If memory serves it was the fuel pump for my Volvo so the car was off the road for another week while Royal Mail sent me the card, i pai and then they finally delivered. Still much cheaper than buying it in the UK to start with though!

Purgatory

Sentence

Loyal

Breed

Welcome aboard Rob! Nice looking, useful car you've got yourself there!

A word to the wise - timing belts being rubber, deteriorate with age as well as use/mileage in the same way tyres get hard with age. This is exacerbated by not using the car frequently as the belt will come to rest and stay there. As the natural oils in the rubber aren't circulated within by movement/heat generated by the movement, they tend to dry out and go brittle. This can cause unexpected failure. Granted timing belts are reinforced but that reinforcement needs the rubber to be in good condition to work. The reinforcement is only as good as the rubber of the timing belt it's bonded within. Manufacturers specify a time as well as a mileage limit specifically to take this into account. I'd strongly suggest having the belt checked at least once a year between now and your anticipated renewal mileage and if there's any doubt, have it changed. It's much cheaper to have the belt changed than an engine rebuild for bent valves after a stripped or broken timing belt which would have to be replaced at the same time as well. A recent example for me of rubber going hard with age - i bought my S Type just under a year ago and the front tyres are Pirelli P6000 (as per OE spec), the rears are P7. I have a Vovlo 760 estate i use as a "Dogmobile" which is running on cheap Chinese tyres (surprisingly good and definitely not deserving of the "Ditchfinder" moniker) and took a T junction near me in the Jag during the recent icy weather. The Jag nearly made intimate contact with a telegraph pole on the pavement! 😮 The Volvo on the other hand turned as it should, despite the black ice. Both cars have ~5-6mm tread on the front tyres so it's not that, the difference is the P6000s on the front of the Jag are 10 years old! The fronts on the Volvo are just over 5 years old with the rears being about 18 months - the fronts had previously been on the rear but a pot hole knocked my alignment out and scrubbed the previous set of front tyres out so the rear tyres went on the front and a new pair was fitted to the back. This prompted an all-round tyre inspection on the Jag and i discovered that not only were the P7s on the back 5 years old but were the wrong speed rating for the car! Naturally i'll be renewing all 4 tyres on the Jag in the near future but it makes you think when old rubber pulls those kind of nasty tricks!

Clone

Imitation

Solicitor

Worm

Helix

Fibonacci

Aristocrat

Alexa is built-in to the Amazon Firestick, no need for a separate purchase. I was watching ITVx earlier on the Firestick. as long as your TV has an HDMI socket (and isn't a Samsung) all the latest generation Firesticks should work and give you ITVx without any problems. Samsung have their own version of CEC (where the remote of an HDMI device can also operate the TV nd vice versa) but it seems only Samsung branded or approved HDMI devices will work with the CEC so i nearly sent my second Firestick back as it wouldn't work on my 42" Plasma Samsung TV. However, i also have a Sony (worked fine and that has a Firestick on it too) and a Toshiba (the smart TV with it all built-in but i prefer to use the Firestick as i find it easier than the TV version) - this is the latest Firestick i can find on Amazon and they're doing a deal on price : https://smile.amazon.co.uk/fire-tv-stick-with-alexa-voice-remote/dp/B08C1RR8JM Very easy to set up as long as you hve an Amazon account, make sure you use the HDMI extender lead though! A friend couldn't get hers to work when she changed TV, her son had installed it on her previous TV and "lost" the extender lead. There was a screw on the TV case that prevvented the Firestick going all the way into the HDMI socket but using the lead meant it would connect. Also reduces interference from the TV on the stick. Nearly forgot, here's some info on CEC : https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Consumer_Electronics_Control