LairdScooby

The C70 is enjoying a bit of a rennaissance interms of value and kudos so my advice would be SORN it over winter and run it as a summer car.

............ and here we see the 3.0 Jaguar in its natural habitat, a fillng station! 🤣 Joking aside, i have an S Type 3.0 and i easily get at least 28mpg from it without trying - the big enemy of good mpg is pootling about at 30mph up and down the gears. Long straight roads, constant speed above 50mph and it gets good figures. Welcome aboard Daniel, as mentioned above, check for rust on the sills and where they meet the rear wheel arches.

Welcome aboard Dave, glad you finally found us!

I would agree with your logic, i'm not wildly familiar with the XF but would imagine it's electrical architecture to be similar to the S Type. There is a general module that's in the boot on the S Type (which could be a clue) and i'm not sure what other modules might be involved. I'd suggest checking in the boot, see if you can find any signs of water ingress/dampness, also check your sunroof drain holes/hoses in cae one or both is leaking water into the boot and causing your problem. As for hearing ultrasonic sensors, the clue is in the name - ultrasonic. They tend to operate in the 22-40KHz range, most humans can only hear up to ~18kHz so if someone says they can hear it, check them for bat DNA or assume they're mistaken or very lucky. Good luck with it, let us know how you get on.

Welcome aboard Matt!

Sing

Did you renew the fuel filter as well?

Educate

Office

Very nice! Now where did i put that winning lottery ticket? 😄 Joking aside, what is your idea of a "reasonable offer" as that is very much open ton interpretation?

(Do not) Pass

First thing to do is read the codes. If the battery is indeed not charging then that will upset the engine manangement and many other things. It could be there's a short to earth in the warning light circuit which will cause this. There could be a number of other reasons for it as well, i'd suggest searching for a local Jag independent specialist and/or a good autoelectrician.

Handy to know iCarsoft JLR V2 will do an autobox reset - don't need to at the moment but useful to know.

You might be able to clear it using an OBD-II scanner but it might also need a dealer reset - suck it and see.

If it appears mostly after a start after a period of inactivity then i would suggest the battery voltage is getting a bit low. Keep an eye on it and see if that's when it mostly comes.

What Joe said ^^^^^ I suspect it's had a change before and the wrong fluid was used, alternatively it could simply be the original fluid is old and dirty. It's surprising how many faults are fluid related. Also worth checking the wheel balance on the back end and also springs and dampers/shock absorbers and suspension bushes at the back end.

Manual or auto Kim? Engine, petrol or diesel? Any fault messages on the dash?

First port of call would be a JLR dealer for preference. Next Timpsons - i believe they can now decode your existing key and fob and supply new, programmed replacements. There may be other suppliers online that can reproduce the key and fob, worth an internet search.

That doesn't sound like an EGR related problem to me, more like a DPF or fuel supply problem. Try https://superchargedperformance.co.uk/ in Bury St Edmunds, to my knowledge they've sorted a 2.2 XFD and a Range Rover 3.0 V6D with good results

Overtake

Check your front tyre pressures and then if you don't find anything, check the front dampers (shock absorers) and front suspension bushes. Also have the wheel alignment checked - all of these things can cause the steering to go exceptionally light at speed.

First, get your battery charged up - you won't be able to trouble shoot with a flat battery. Then when you turn the ignition on, check for a charge warning light - if the bulb has blown it won't charge, also see if it has an internal or external voltage reg as that will alter the method slightly for diagnostics.

Welcome aboard Tommy!

Try looking for a Nissens brand on ebay for your car Paul - they manufacture most of the aftermarket (and many OEM) radiators. They may not have an uprated version but that's not necessarily a bad thing! If you have an excessively large volume of cold coolant in the rad when the 'stat opens, this can cause other, very expensive, problems.

Force