LairdScooby

Fees (regrettably!)

Good luck with the sale and sorry to hear of your diagnosis. Reminds me of my first Jag ~30 years ago, Sov 4.2, same colour and year on an Irish "private" plate. Visually very similar externally but interior is very different and obviously it was missing 6 cylinders!

Still worth checking your tyres though, also your exhaust may have a minor leak causing a drone/vibration or even just a missing hanger. Without hearing and/or seeing the car, this is one of those things where every guess is a needle in a haystack, could be a wheel bearing even.

It could be a number of things, my favourite guess would be propshaft centre bearing or tyres. Old tyres can be incredibly noisy, especially if they've developed a carbuncle orother deformation. Could be related to the first problem, seems like you need to have a good check over everything on the back end.

Airlocks in the cooling system? Can cause excess pressure in the expansion/header tank and force coolant out leaving even more air in the system. Top up each morning when cold and try to park overnight with the front of the car nose down if the expansion tank is by the bulkhead like in the S Type or if the expansion tank is near the front, face uphill to help get the air out.

Bridge

Wishbone

Handy to know!

I was just going on your pic, it's possible that someone has been in there and changed the wiring but it would appear to be neg earth as the black wire is running to the casing/earth of the pump.

I think your best bet will be a scrapyard as the new ones (for the petrol engine) are NLA : https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/parts/index/part/id/400.1284.3696.16346/brand/jaguar/ As a "prove it or not" test, you could wrap duct tape around where they have been cut, if the problem disappears you have a semi permanent repair (as long as you use duct tape on those two ducts) that will keep you going until you find a used item in a scrappies.

Electric pumps are almost always polarity sensitive but it looks as if it's wired for negative earth.

Attack

Sweet

Hexadecimal

Computer (says "NO!")

Rejection

If you can, find another headlamp and unplug your offside/drivers headlamp and plug the wiring into the "spare" unit. If the fault persists, it's not the headlamp, if the DRL comes up bright on the spare unit then it's the light unit. However, you may find if the spare is bright, the original might "miraculously" become bright - this points to corroded/dirty connections within the plugs.

Aversion

Unedifying

Disdain

Swearing (Gordon Ramsay etc)

Swedish

Winning

If memory serves, the locking nuts have a removable sleeve to allow the "key" to fit in the end of the nut. As such, the locking nut doesn't have the same tight fitting sleeve, just a relatively loose one. Funny (ish) story, i removed all 4 locking nuts on mine prior to replacing the tyres. In between removing each wheel and fitting a new tyre then refitting and then going to replace the locking nuts, i managed to lose the "key". That decided me, they'd be replaced with normal nuts. By strange coincidence, after fitting replacement wheels to my Honda, i lost the locking nut "key" and had to buy a locking wheel nut remover kit. Done one so far but the rest won't be long, been hoping the key would turn up............

Tolerance