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Welcome aboard Neil! Loads of useful info on here!

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Matt

Prime suspect with these symptoms is the key itself - if you have a spare key, try that before anything else. There is an RF-ID chip inside the key, these can fail at any given moment in time with no warning. If they do, the car will not turn over. Also try locking/unlocking several times in a row with the remote fob.

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Here you are Tony, a day late but unexpected things happened yesterday! You can just see the level of the coolant there, easier to see with the access panel lifted off : In that one, you can see the coolant is level with the seam between the top and bottom halves of the expansion tank, this is the MIN cold level.

You should be able to see the coolant in the coolant expansion tank Tony, no tube should be on it. I'll try and get a photo of mine tomorrow - my coolant is orange, i believe they changed coolant requirements over the course of production and different colours were used but i don't think pink was one of them.

It sounds to me that the DCCV (heater) valve is working as it should Tony. I'd sort the top hose, get the coolant level where it should be and repeatedly check it for at least 7-10 days while cold and top up to the level if necessary. Because of the design of the system, it can take several days of shorter trips to get the coolant level to stabilise. I'd also suggest a new expansion tank cap, as linked to above.

Maybe Tony, it depends how badly blocked it is. It could also be that you've lost a lot of the cooling vanes between the radiator runners (that go between top and bottom tanks) which would reduce the ability to cool. Gentle driving at moderate speeds would reduce the need for cooling but going up a lot of hills, being stuck in traffic or motorway use would increase the cooling needs. Before you shell out on a new rad, i'd suggest getting a compression test done and also a cooling system pressure test. If you can find someone that can flow test the rad as well then so much the better. It could be you were just unlucky with the top hose and the relief valve blew on the new one (i assume it was brand new?) because of insufficient coolant and an airlock becoming pressurised to the point where it popped the valve.