volor

What colour is the engine oil? Check oil cap lid. If you have white waxy substance (emulsification), you may have Head Gasket problems.

Had a similar problem on my s-type when i bought it (had been in storage for over a year), lazy solenoid was diagnosed, but before replacing, was suggested to disconnect battery overnight ( with car unlocked :) ). Connected up following morning locked and then deadlocked car, unlocked, locked did this a couple of times, not had the problem since. Might be worth a try.

There are available a number of products for restoring plastic headlight lenses. I have used meguiars, www.meguiars.com for the last couple of years on a number of plastic lensed cars. Works really well. I do this 2/3 times a year. Much cheaper than new units. Heard about toothpaste & the wet/ dry method, and have seen good results initially. No idea what they look like after a couple of weeks later though as the protective coating will have been removed. Not brave enough to try, and have stuck with the specialist products.

Have you checked your earthing? The way the rear light clusters work, it is quite easy to create an open circuit. It is very important you follow the cable number and not cable colour, to identify the positive and earth cables, for each bulb. I got into a similar situation fitting rear parking sensors, and discovered that cable colour is a complete red herring in the boot of the S-type. Found wiring diagram on the net, which listed individual cable numbers and resolved the problem in a few minutes.

Common on most cars with Plastic headlight lenses... Merc, Renault, Ford, Toyota, to name a few as well as the Jag.... Funnily enough not seen a Peugeot effected by it. Believe it is caused by High UV levels effecting the plastic. My 99 S-Type has always been garaged, and the lenses are still like new. Whereas my daily drive (V6 Laguna) requires treatment on the lenses every 3/4 months... but still a much cheaper solution than new lamp units.

Geoff, have u had a look at yourjag.com?

Good luck. Do not rush it. The more effort/time spent the better result. I repolish my plastic lenses about every 3 months, only takes 5 mins now, and lenses are like new. Loads still left in the bottle. Suggest a sturdy stool to sit on :) , and a good lint free cloth. Ideal time to look over the front of your Jag.

Hi Geoff. In your search, you may come across suggestions of using Fine Sandpaper, toothpaste, etc. Don't go there. Spend your money and buy the proper product....... Some come in a kit form with Pads to fit to drills..... depends on how bad the condition of the lenses are, as to whether you need just the cream, or the full kit.

Have you tried using anyone of the plastic lens restorers that are available? Personally I have used Meguiars on a number of cars with plastic lenses, all with good results. Way cheaper than new lenses.

Geoff, Good to hear that a slow charge appears to have done the trick. Enjoy your Jag.

As mictop has stated, identify suspension knocking sounds is difficult, and u can spend some serious money before getting to the real problem. To check the anti roll bushes you need to jack up the car so there is no weight on the bush to help see if there is indeed wear. The weight of the car can mask the wear in the bush.

No expierence of your particular problem, but I do know that VW & Ford have similar systems, and that the problem u describe is caused by a failed sensor.

Could well be that the solenoid on passenger door has become "lazy". This can be difficult to resolve without a new lock, however certainly would suggest a good squirt of WD40 in the 1st instance, followed by a good 10 mins of locking/unlocking. However the fact that you can only lock some of the doors using the deadlock function, could mean a new lock is in order. Try the cheap options 1st. Don`t exclude a squirt of electrical contact cleaner, if u have it before the WD 40. I take it that u have checked there is no dirt in the lock mechanism?

Tyre skip, now that is a new one for me. I would say from the fact that it seems to be worse in the cold, that it is indeed suspension related, and could be as simple as bushes. I know from expierence how a knocking anti roll bar, can take u down the wrong path to diagnosis. With such low milage I would not accept what the dealer is saying. Have you had the tracking checked?

Trickle charge will make perfect sense in a car that does not get regular use, and the discharge from the battery is greater than the charge from a short run. A car sitting in a garage will still discharge because for example, the alarm on, the clock is still running, and the engine ECU will be taking a current. That is a fact. Then chances are you start the car, the a/c is on, heated screen kicks in, etc..... and unless you do a decent run, the battery will never be recharged to the level it was before you cranked the engine (which is an enormous load, especially in an auto, as you cannot disengaged the gearbox by depressing a clutch, when u start). In most modern cars ( like last 20 yrs) if the amps are to low, the pre starter solenoid will not activate, and prevent the car from starting. Welcome to the joys of modern cars with advanced electrical systems.