Marty1488

We’ll triumph, Dave lol. Keep me posted on how you get along with everything. The suspension job sounds like a big undertaking, and not one I would relish. Next for me is broken glow plug removal and then full service. I’m praying the heater core doesn’t need to come out. Speak soon, mate. All the best, and give me shout if you need anything. Take care.

I found - what I believed to be coolant - dripping from the Ac pipe, just in front of the transmission, and behind (I think) the power steering hose, that sort of region — at the back of the largest section of the belly pan. However, I took her out recently, for a very aggressive drive, and when I parked up, there was steam(?) billowing out from the left (viewed from driver’s seat) of the engine, no coolant in the expansion tank (lol), and a shi*load of colourless, slightly viscous, scentless liquid pi**ing out of the belly pan, in the region I described previously. I decided it was normal after reading that water is naturally released from the AC system. Seams to me the engine is maybe overheating for some reason. I checked the coolant temp after said drive, and it was only around 95 celsius. I dunno, Dave 🤷🏻‍♂️ IMG_5013.mov

Hi, Dave Hope you’re keeping well (never sure whether to “quote” or just reply to the topic lol). I completely blanked it off at the throttle body and where the pipe meets the — cooler(?), and removed the two pipes completely. So, four plates in total for the S Type (X2004). Not sure if the X Type is the same. I got no light or anything, and I didn’t remove the throttle body butterfly, because I wasn’t sure how, even though others advise to do so. Not sure if this makes a difference or not. I did some research on my model and discovered that deleting the EGR from the ECU isn’t necessary. However, if the garage is going to sort all that out for you, then let them get on with it. Maybe they’ll discover it’s unnecessary. I dunno. I’d have to research the X Type to know. Not sure if it was related, but I got an “unusal flow” (or something like that) alert recently. I removed the throttle body, checked the butterfly actuator, tightened the blanking plates, refitted everything, and now everything is fine again. unrelated to the EGR, but as an aside, I recently replaced the glow plugs (bit of a nightmare job) and the last one snapped off. So now I have to figure out how to remove that. Oh, joy. Incidentally, it seemed that the ones on the left bank(?) - passenger side - were all seized and dirty. Not sure if this is a sign something is wrong. I’m still getting coolant loss, particularly when I ride her hard. Mechanic found nothing after pressure test, and I did a block test and got a negative result for gasket failure. I suspect the heater core needs to be removed. I also recently replaced the transmission fluid and filter and reset the TCM/TCU — doing that on your back is a bar-steward lol. keep me up to speed on everything, please, Dave. I’m interested to know how everything goes, and would like to help, if I can. All the breast Marty 😉

Glad things are going well. Which one’s the boost hose? I recently blanked my EGR and never looked back. Luckily, I don’t have a DPF. Also replaced one of the injectors because I was getting a cylinder 1 fault code. Still have a coolant drain/leak or maybe I don’t after the recent drain/replace — haven’t had her out enough to tell. Coolant must’ve been ancient, however, because I couldn’t even remove the undertray due to corrosion of the screws, so had to cut through the plastic to get at it. she seems to be running a lot better now. Not sure if she’ll ever be like new, but I’m going to continue to try and get her close. Keep me posted.

Owner of a 2005 S Type 2.7 Diesel. When I got her, she’d been neglected. I think she’d probably sat for a long time, rarely being used, and even before that had been driven like a mobility scooter. I gave her a full service, which noticeably improved the performance. However, she’s still underpowered. I was starting to accept that the S Type 2.7 just isn’t a fast car, until today. Yesterday, I removed (forgot about the second one lol) one of the MAF sensors, to see if the car stalled (which she didn’t). I’d heard this was proof that the MAF is faulty, but then I read some contradictory info. However, when I turned off the engine and then back on, throttle response (in park) was improved. I went inside, because I’d been out, and then took her out for a spin the next day. Performance was incredible. I knew immediately that she is a fast car — very fast. However, the restricted performance sign came on, even though she was now better than ever. This confused the hell out of me because it should’ve been on before, not now! So I brought her home, went in for a while, because it had started to rain, then went back out later and disconnected and reconnected the MAFS and MAP. After I did this, I went for a drive (restricted performance sign now gone), and she is slower than before. So now I’m well confused lol. All I can think is that one or both of the MAFs (or maybe the MAP?) is buggered. So I’ve ordered two new MAFs and a MAP. The new MAP, however, appears to have two screw holes, whereas mine has only one. I’m hoping this won’t matter. If replacing the sensors doesn’t work, I don’t know what to do next. Seems as if I just can’t get her back to her original, optimal performance. She’s definitely running better than ever, though, and that glimpse of her glory days was exhilarating! At least I know now how she’s meant to be. I won’t stop until I’ve nursed her back to full health. All the best Marty

I can’t see why she won’t last you 3 years, Dave. My girl is running better now too. I changed the fuel filter as well, but didn’t fill it with cleaner, as I didn’t know that was a thing until recently. She seems to be running pretty good, however, after the extensive service, Shell V-Power diesel, and many bottles of additives I’ve given her. You might want to clean or replace the MAP sensor — easy job and really helps. Can do the MAF as well, but I didn’t noticed much difference after cleaning mine. Keep us up to speed on her progress, Dave. I’m sure there are lots of knowledgeable folk on here who can help you if you run into problems. Take care Marty

Sounds similar to mine, Dave. She was serviced religiously (at Jag) by the first guy, but it looks as though the second or third (I forget how many owners she’s had) didn’t do much with her. Looks as though the last owner maybe had her in storage, or just sitting outside, for a while too. He said he’d bought an XF, which leads me to believe the S Type just sat - maybe being used occasionally - to keep her running until he sold her. Seeing as the last service record is from a year ago, and because he didn’t seem like the DIY type, I believe she hasn’t been serviced - and probably not driven much - for a year. I dunno. What I do know is that there was a lot of cobwebs, dirt, leaves and other debris under the hood and in the filters. Brake discs and pads were filthy and corroded, coolant pipe was loose and leaking, filters filthy, oil low and dirty. !Removed! me off when I saw the state of her under the hood and behind the wheels. Having said that, even though I’ve rejuvenated her, I still feel she’s sluggish. I’m praying she’s just still half asleep and bunged up from being neglected and in hibernation, and that there’s nothing seriously wrong. I’ve emptied a million bottles of additives into the tank lol, and will continue to do so periodically, in the hope they will clear her out. Admittedly, and shamefully, however, I haven’t used her as much as I should. Need to get her on a long run down the motorway. Hope everything goes well for you. Keep us updated. If you need any help (probably can’t offer much), just give me a shout. I’m in the North East, if you ever need a spare set of hands 👍🏻 All the best Marty

I would’ve just assumed the identity of the previous owner, or at least ingratiated myself with his friends 🤭 I haven’t even bothered trying with my 2004 S Type 2.7 because I don’t think it has that ability, plus I never use the phone in the car anyway. It came with a cool car phone, which I’d love to use, but I think it’s probably best left in the past 😆 Maybe it’s like that hot tub time machine, and will transport me back to 2004 👀🤭 Glad you solved the problem. All the best Marty

Hi, Dave Give it a good service and see if that helps. Could simply be an issue of neglect. Good oil change might fix things. If it doesn’t, however, we’ll have to investigate further 🕵🏻‍♂️ All the best Marty

Hi, Bob if it’s working fine, there probably isn’t an issue. The car is either telling you there’s a fault, when there isn’t one (which I suppose is an annoying fault in itself); or there’s a minor intermittent fault that comes and goes. I found this info online: https://triangleimports.com/blog/why-does-my-jaguar-say-restricted-performance#:~:text=Common Restricted Performance Message Problems&text=Possible causes for the Restricted,and gaps in hose closures. Sounds as though it could be caused by a loose connection or crack somewhere, probably caused by an inept mechanic. I recently acquired a 2004 S Type 2.7 myself and have found many such instances of ineptitude and negligence. It scares me to think what else is wrong that I’ve missed. At the moment, my Jag seems pretty sluggish. Dunno if I’m just expecting too much, she’s still half asleep, or if there are more issues, but she’s not as rapid as I expected her to be. She shines on motorways, but is sluggish at lower speeds. Thing that bothers me the most is when I try to accelerate from a standstill there’s a massive delay, and then she’s slow all the way to 50 or so. I recently discovered that the hose going to the coolant reservoir was reinstalled incorrectly and was leaking coolant everywhere. Beggars belief how some people become mechanics in the first place. Point being: it could easily be something as simple as a hose being reinstalled incorrectly, or maybe a worn or cracked part. Hope you find a solution. Keep us updated. All the best Marty

Fitted new discs and pads, bled brakes and changed fluid. Took me around 15hrs in total — mainly because it was my first time, I don’t have specialist knowledge, I don’t have specialised equipment, the car has been horribly neglected, and because some retards worked on the design of it 😂 Seriously, some of the design features of the S Type are so bad that I’m beginning to think they were designed to be awkward on purpose. But, it’s all done now, thank God. — Marty

If the doors lock with the autolock, it can’t be an actuator issue. Therefore the problem must lie with the key fobs or whatever receives the signal. I would imagine, however, that the keys just need reset/reprogrammed. Jewgle it or go to Jag. Probably a simple fix. All the best Marty

Hi, Bob Found this on Jewtube. Hope it helps, mate. Let us know how you get on. All the breast Marty

Have you seen the film Christine? 😬🤭😉 That’s a mystery to me. Never encountered anything like that before, thank God. Jimbov8 sounds on the money, though. As he says, get it to an auto sparky. Usually, I would suggest fixing it yourself, but this one sounds a bit puzzling to me. Hope you get it sorted. Please let us know if you do. All the best Marty

Fuse? If it needs replacing, you might be better off with an aftermarket one, as they seem to be more or less plug and play.

Hi, Roy In what way isn’t it working? Mine’s been refusing to disengage. All I usually do is just remove the leads from the module, which is located in the boot. That usually sets it free. If it’s just not working, is it necessary to have it on? Not sure what advice to give you, because mine is an ongoing problem. I hear rear brakes can have an influence on the EPB too. It all seems shrouded in mystery 👀🤭😉 Hope everything works out for you. All the best Marty

Hi, Jezza. Beautiful car 👍🏻

Welcome 🙋‍♂️

Finally got round to changing the rear right passenger door lock actuator today. What a chew on lol. Took me about 2-3hrs, I think, and cost me around £40 for the part. Thankfully, all the doors lock beautifully now with the key fob. No more manually locking one of the doors. Very happy it went well, because I was very apprehensive going into it lol. My bum was going a bit, but everything worked out great. Here’s a list of everything I’ve done so far in the 3 weeks I’ve owned her: New cabin filter fitted New air filter fitted New fuel filter fitted New oil filter fitted Oil changed Tyres inflated CD changer installed Diagnostic check performed MAP sensor cleaned MAF sensors cleaned New battery installed Rear right passenger door lock replaced. The EPB has been bothering me lately. Not sure how I’m going to fix that one, or if it’s something I have to live with. Next thing I’ll tackle will probably be the brakes, but I’ve never jacked up a car before or removed the wheels. Still, I guess there’s a first time for everything…

You can’t wash them too much. I’m out there every other day — topless. Gives the curtain twitchers a thrill 🤣 I sometimes worry about the power washer that I use. Don’t know if I’ve caused paint damage or if I’m just seeing things I couldn’t see when it was dirty. I’m wondering if I’ve taken away some previously damaged spots that were maybe peeling already. I don’t know. It could definitely do with a paint job, however, but I can’t afford it. All the best, mate Marty

Hi, Andrew Looks as though mine was done by a previous owner. The garage that did it is called Martin Smith Cars, which, I presume, is around the Rotheram area, but I haven’t checked. Water pump was also changed, which I believe is usually done at the same time as the belt, at around 80,000, and might be something you want to get done at the same time. Usually, I would suggest doing it yourself, but it looks a !Removed! to get at. Mightn’t be, but it looks it. Maybe do a little research, see if you can do it yourself. If not, try that garage I mentioned. I’m sure you’ll find someone to do it. Good luck. All the best Marty

Hi, Simon. Sorry to hear you’re having issues. You could maybe buy a cheap diagnostic machine and reset it, see if it comes back on. If it does, maybe the garage that supposedly changed the sensors is telling porkies or ballsed something up. If the problem persists, and you can get at them, just replace them yourself. All the best Marty

Congrats, Paul. She’s a beauty. Hello from Gateshead. All the best Marty

Congrats, Stuart. I have a 2004. All the best Marty

Hi, Jamie. Congrats. I bought an S Type a couple of weeks back. I gave her a full service and am really enjoying the ride. I had the same entry/exit issues, that I managed to solve. I also managed to fix the frozen wing mirrors with a little lube and perseverance. Basically, unless it’s a bigger issue, the way to fix the auto seat and steering column function is to play around with it. Put it on “Auto” and then move the column a bit, then press the preset to reset it; turn the ignition on and off; open the door, close the door, etc. Can’t remember the exact sequence, but it’s not important. Just mess around with it. Regarding the speaker issue: once again, assume it’s not serious. You could disconnect and reconnect the battery, mess around with the speaker controls, check fuses, etc. If this doesn’t work, you may have to remove the door panel and replace the speaker. Just persevere, Jamie. Hope that helps. All the best Marty