N6 JMX

Unless your car has stop / start technology as standard, it would be a waste of money to fit the AGM version of the battery. Suggest you go to the Kwik Fit website and go to the battery tab and insert your registration number. The website will show the various batteries suitable for your car. Remember to double check the size / dimensions as an unsecured battery is an MoT failure. You don't need to buy the battery at Kwik Fit, you can do a search to find the best value in your area. But the website takes the guess work out of the equation. N6 JMX

Hi Geoff, the ability of the battery to start the engine is not a good indicator of the battery condition these days. Even a 2005 car has a lot of electronics incorporated and these are very voltage sensitive. So, even though the car can be started by the existing battery, I would suggest that you get it properly checked by an Auto Electrician - if you don't have the tools and knowledge to do it yourself. Incidentally, perceived wisdom is to consider a car battery, lead acid variety, a consumable item and change when it gets to around 5-years old. Do you know the age of your battery? A series of voltage checks will be required at various stages of the operation to truly assess the battery condition. I am sure someone will be along shortly to advise exactly what the various readings should be, but as a starter: 1. With the engine running, i.e. charging from the alternator, the voltage should be in the region of 14.6V 2. After a long run and stopping the engine, the voltage should be in the region of 13.6V if checked immediately on stopping the engine 3. If placed on a charger / conditioner, then fully charged should give a reading of around 12.8V with the reading taken at least 3 - 4 hours after disconnecting the charger, i.e. given the chance to settle 4. If the reading 3 - 4 hours after disconnecting from the charger were to be 12.5V, then the battery is potentially only at 50% charge Please note that batteries are individual, subject to varying duty cycles and at this time of the year, winter and cold, they will not be at their best condition in any event. N6 JMX

Hi Owen, have you looked on the JEC Classifieds website? There is currently a V12 S3 Coupe for sale there at a very reasonable price - for an E-type. The link below should take you there. Incidentally, there are a total of 8 E-types for sale on the JEC site, ranging in price across the spectrum - but all should be ex enthusiasts' cars. jec.org.uk/classifieds/index.php?page=cars-for-sale&id=13539 N6 JMX

Hi Mark, well done you and welcome to the wonderful world of Jaguar motoring. Post a few photos once you have it on the driveway. Have a great festive season. N6 JMX

Have you repositioned the fob battery as the contacts within the fob are quite fragile and can easily lose touch with the battery in the fob? Do you have a second fob, i.e. 2 x keys? Have you tried to use the second key? N6 JMX

Hi Tim, if there is no pressure resistance whatsoever, it has to be a leak somewhere in the system. When you try to pump the brakes, does the system lose fluid and need to be topped up? Have you taken the brake servo apart to check that is sound? Have you looked underneath to determine if there are any patches of fluid on the ground beneath the car? N6 JMX

Hi Kevin, repair or replacement is down to how much you value your car. Repairs are never that successful, unless you remove the complete headlining from the car and completely remove the old glue and effectively start again. It can be a DIY task, but if you are not competent with spanners and scrapers, best left to a trim specialist, who will likely advise a replacement. This can be a new cloth, if the backing board is still fine, or it can be a complete new fitment. There are plenty of trimmers around who could undertake the complete task, or just supply you the new / replacement material. Type "Headliner Replacement Service" into your search engine to research potential near you. N6 JMX

Hi Norm, the manual for the 2001 model will be startingly similar between the early years as there were no, real, changes until the 4.2 litre engine came along in 2002. Also in 2002 there were some external detail revisions and some minor interior revisions, such as the seats. The 6-speed transmission was also introduced in 2002. There used to be sites where the manuals could be downloaded as a PDF, but I believe most are now no longer available, but perhaps others on here will know differently. The point about the "cheap" owner's handbooks, is that they may well NOT be the actual handbooks, but copies of the PDF download - typically not bound. The best location for an actual owner's manual would be a specialist Jaguar Breaker - these folks often sell them on eBay and other such sites, but if you contact them directly, they should be able to assist. As a starting point, I would suggest making contact with Dave Roche at DCR AutoParts, who knows the X-100 cars intimately and is also a great source of parts to keep these cars looking good. Find Dave at: DCR AutoParts - Independent Jaguar Parts and Accessories Specialist N6 JMX

Hi Jon, I agree completely with John. I recently had the mechanic tell me that my rear pads were worn 85% and the warning message had not appeared at that point. Hence, your pads are worn further that 85%, so a change before further use is a good idea. N6 JMX

Well the big reveal has happened and, once again it is all wrong! A pink Jaguar, I don't think so. Why is the "design concept" a long nosed 2-door coupe, when there is nothing to put under the long bonnet AND Jaguar have already stated they will not be building 2-door coupe's anytime soon? As for the "copy nothing" - look again. Practically every angle reflects a car from history, not least of which Bugatti and TVR are on view. N6 JMX

Suggest you make contact with a chap called Dave Roche at DCR AutoParts, see link below. DCR AutoParts - Independent Jaguar Parts and Accessories Specialist N6 JMX

Long shot, but does the car potentially have an aftermarket security system fitted, whereby the previous owner obtained the power feed from a circuit that included the wipers? Wipers need the ignition on feed to operate, so potentially there is a short circuit occurring within the wiper switch mechanism or motor, that is taking out the ignition feed when activated. Try and find a good second hand wiper switch and substitute, or alternatively, access the wiper motor itself and disconnect the power supply, Then try the switching on of the wipers with the engine running to see if the fault persists. Outcome will point to the switch - if the engine cuts out - or the motor - if the engine continues to run as normal. N6 JMX

Hi Norm, best place to seek these documents is on the well known auction sites. Alternatively, approach one of the specialist brokers, but probably one where you live to keep the cost reasonable. N6 JMX

Hi Robert, never experienced this cut out in any vehicle before, but would suspect a connection between the rain and the cut out engine, to have an electrical sub plot. It sounds like a water ingress to an important part of the vehicle's electrics which was "loaded" when you turned on the wipers - perhaps a coincidence, but worth looking for commonality in the circuit - like ignition on. Did it restart afterwards, or has it remained "dead" since occurring? You state "the car still had electrics", what do you mean by that? Were the lights on at the time and remained on, did the dashboard light up, did any warning lights come up, are there any stored codes to be read? N6 JMX

Hi Trevor, you could use an identical road wheel as a spare, therefore 18inch, or you could procure the 18 inch space saver spare. The important point is to procure a spare wheel with the correct PCD for the bolt pattern of your hubs and the correct offset. If you want the space saver option, look at the Road Hero range - they provide a kit to include all of the other peripherals you will need, i.e. jack, wheel brace, chocks, etc. Kwik Fit operate an agency for Road Hero, so you can get advice from your local service centre. N6 JMX