Tony Raspin

Hi Dave, thank you for being good enough to take time to take and send these pics. After the weekend settling of the overheating event I have decided to purchase a new top hose and heater control valve and have them fitted. I shall be putting forward to my guardian angel a compression test done and also a cooling system pressure test. Also if possible flow test the rad as well. I think this is the best way forward for now. I've also bought a new radiator expansion tank cap. Thanks again for all you help, regards, Tony.

Hi Dave. I've just shone a torch down the coolant filler tank tube after removing the cap and I can see at the bottom of the tube the usual pinkish coolant. Surely with coolant loss I'd not see anything, or is this simply how the tube is designed in some way? Tony.

Lovely Dave, many thanks, Tony

Hi Dave, thanks again for all your points of suggestion. So to recap, while I do need a top hose 100%, can I know if in your experience / knowledge and understanding of the rough timing of events i.e. heater blower blowing warm air then cooler air (on same (warm) heater / air con panel settings) prior to yesterdays overheating incident, that I do not need to change the heater valve and that this purely coincidental? Would you change it? Thanks, Tony.

Hi Dave, thank you for all this advice. I'm sure I need a new top radiator hose fitted before anything else as the casing "valve" stem round cap has popped and floats more or less in situ. I've found eBay item number:116062910765. Just a small point re what you say about the radiator maybe leaking or blocked, would this scenario have shown up earlier in the 150 or so miles I've driven since my garage fitted my replacement top hose, tested and filled with coolant. Or as with the unpredictability of cars taken its time to produce a repeat of the first coolant saga with the previous owner? Thanks, Tony.

If the heater valve fails to open / fully open might this create an overheating scenario?

Hi Dave, journey was about 2 miles, park up, restart normally and temp gauge slowly passed halfway. I switched engine of in delayed traffic queue. Restarted and with next half mile gauge went into red and into fail safe mode. I was able to reset all 3 codes that allowed to drive normally and safely about further half mile home. Checked to hose and the value has popped with coolant splash. Driving all the time with blower temp set high but with coldish air. Like it for the last 30-40 miles that why I wonder if the heater valve is/has failed. It seems so coincidental being linked. Thanks, Tony.

I hope this reaches the correct destination, but apologies if it misses the mark. Hi everyone. I'm reaching out for hopefully some useful info to help direct my garage to fixing an overheating problem on my 2001 (51MY) S type. Its a 3.0 V6 SE. The background. Bought car with an overheating event. Sellers garage indicated no head gasket issue but the radiator top hose valve had popped. Seller did not want any further costs so sold car. I had my garage replace the top hose, pressure test cooling system. Hose changed and car static tested running for 1 hour or so to settled running condition. Original fault codes P1299 and P1285 both reset. Car has been driven for 150 ish miles since this repair with no issues. Then today temp gauge rose over half way and further and shortly after the car went into fail safe mode. The radiator top hose valve has popped on the new radiator top hose like previous. Codes P1285, P1299 & P0133 revealed and reset and with only short distance I confidently drove home. Prior to second over heating the heater blower had been blowing warm air but for the my last 30 miles or so blowing much cooler air. So any suggestions welcome. Might the heater valve failed and be causing the radiator hose to pop? Many thanks for your time and help, Tony. I'll answer any questions if asked or try to. Thank you cat owners.