Cabernet02

So this post is aimed at trying to get you all on the straight and narrow road to fix your DPF issues once and for all. This is not a call for help because I have cured the problem myself. I will try to compress the last 9months experience into quick readable piece of information which you should all take on board now or keep for the future when the dreaded ‘RP’ makes an appearance. I must also state my car is a Jaguar S-Type 2.7D 2007 SE with 77K on the clock. Having been through the mill reading more stuff about DPFs and the reasons the ‘Restricted Performance’ light is lit and the so called cures for this ailment – some of which you will realise are a total waste of your time and most of all – your hard earned money… Right – Are you sitting comfortably – Then I shall begin… (Showing my age there) In August 2021 I decided to buy my second S-Type as it had less than a third of the mileage of my original car which I’d owned for 8years – Hind sight – I wish I had kept my old girl –sometimes the grass is most definitely not greener! I did all the things guys do when they buy a new car – Oil & Filter Change - upgrade the HiFi – Thoroughly clean the Leather – Polish the paintwork – check as much as possible under the bonnet – check all the pads – replace the Air Filter – Fuel Filter – Wipers – Millers to the Diesel etc.,etc. The car performed great for the first 2 months… but then the dreaded ‘Restricted Performance’ came up. Having had some experience with the previous 2.7D Sport, I was well aware of what was required or at least I thought I was. This is the opening of the worm hole that leads most of us on the infamous ‘Bum Steer’ that can lead to so much despair. You see if you actually take a step back and consider what you think or have been told to do by some of the many many posts you have read, you will NOT enter! The previous car that had nearly EVERTHING replaced that leads to the ‘RP’ scenario – Turbos - EGRS – MAF Sensors – MAP sensor – Smoke Test to Inlet Manifolds – Throttle Body Cleaned – Timing Belt – Water Pump etc., you just carried on as normal and the light would go off after your next jaunt up the motorway – all good. Some of that in part due to the excellent previous owners servicing. This car however decided it was not going to play the game – and ‘RP’ was here to stay. It would come on as soon as I left the driveway. This baffled me to start with as it does not come on when parked, I assume it interacts with the ECM and ABS sensor, anyway – not important. First – Several 30min runs on the motorway above 2000rpm and the light would go out for a day or two – then make a return like a long lost friend. Not long after the ‘RP’ would bring one his mates to the party - the RED light also came up. OK digging deeper – Checked intercooler Pipe but it was like new so must have been replaced previously. Checked both rubber / silicone pipes from the DPF to the Differential Pressure Sensor, both like new – Checked the Inlet manifolds for leaks – all good. Checked the differential Pressure switch by removing the larger bore Rear Pipe which is the front of the DPF – short drive and the warning lights are off and stay off for some distance which means the DPF is blocked and needs cleaning. Time for cleaning – lots of ‘On Car’ DPF cleaning companies out there – “no need to dismantle your exhaust – we will clean it on your driveway or at work”… Great stuff…£150.00 They came – they supposedly cleaned it and ran the car at 2500RPM while parked and with what looks like a modified garden spray green fly killer lance injected their cleaning fluid into the system somewhere – I have no idea where to this day? “Look” he said “the exhausts are blowing much better out the back than before”. Yes I said like an idiot as I have never seen the exhausts running at 2500rpm as I am usually in the driver’s seat! (Insert emoji with surprised look & no mouth). An accompanied drive with the guy and his computer attached we went for a jaunt up the motorway and all was good for the usual mile or two then the light came on again. He said “it’s your differential sensor, it will be faulty and needs to be replaced. OK next day – off to JAG and purchased the replacement £95.00 – Fitted on the way home and light came on – the friend you wish you had never met. More blasts up the motorway – nothing. Purchased an Icarsoft scanner tool £150.00 and checked the fault codes. Everything the posts tell you and more – my Sat Nav voice guidance was missing something – again not important! Anyway stick to the story, ‘Differential Pressure sensor High’ etc etc… Time for a forced Regen via the tool. Wow it actually worked and the tool told you how much was left in the DPF, Happy days. 3 Days later ‘RP’ was back with his mate Mr Red. Time for a dramatic move – replace the DPF – there are a couple of companies in the UK who make these things and all with good reviews so let’s get this sorted once and for all I thought and start with a new datum. DPF Plus new pressure sensor feed pipes £200.00 approx., from CATSRU or DPFtoU or some such company, much cheaper than JAG. I fitted it and cleared the faults & carried out the install/register of new DPF on the scan tool. 0.0G and pressure sensor correct. Got another Oil & filter change done £120.00 as we all know that’s important. The only big downside was I was not able to park the car on the drive way as it’s quite a camber up the pavement to our drive and the new DPF sits about 50mm lower than the original and with four people in the car over sleeping policemen - it scrapes so it had to be parked on the street- sad face emoji! System all good for what I remember to be 6 weeks then guess who came back to make an appearance? You’re ahead of me - I can tell and you’re right of course... ‘RP’ and Mr Red. I was shocked I can tell you. What to do now? Go deep as it must be something upstream creating all this soot to block a Brand New DPF? Checked the turbo actuators, Swirl Valve Actuators, EGRs are clean and cycling perfectly, Connecting Pipes, Cleaned All MAF & Map sensors, rechecked Inlet Manifolds, Cleaned throttle body though it wasn’t really dirty, checked wiring to DPF sensor. Off up the motorway and managed a regen and lights out for a couple of days before they came back. I was now very worried that the rings are badly worn or injectors are faulty – or – or? My fear was I would suffer the Diesel Engine Runaway death and that would be the end… You know when you sleep on things and you get that lightbulb moment, well that’s what happened. I still had the original JAG DPF and I was going to get it cleaned properly without cutting it open or hitting it with a pressure washer or removing the core. I researched it carefully and found a company in Manchester who clean the DPF off car / lorry in a purpose made high pressure system using specialised chemicals. £125.00. Exciting – I know – I could hardly contain myself. I dropped it off and collected the next day and was given a printout of the exhaust performance in the specialised machine. In short the machine produced a before and after result so you understand how good the clean result is. The guy (sorry don’t remember his name) showed me the machine and demonstrated the air pressure test, the air hose is about 50mm diameter and showed a reading to atmosphere of 1.19 (unsure of units used sorry). The air was seriously blowing from the flexible hose and he then tried to cover the end with his hand and could only get it to about 1.4. Pre clean the Air pressure system reported back 1.70 – that was one of the worst he had ever seen he was surprised the car ran at all. After Cleaning it read 1.19 so definitely clean. Had the cleaned original exhaust fitted back to the car £95.00. Reset the ECM with the scan to for the now Like New DPF and cleared all fault codes then had another Oil & Filter Change £110.00. A point to note here also is they clean the rubbish from the DPF out from the input side which is absolutely logical. Also if you take a minute to think about it all the ash will just accumulate and needs to leave from the way it came in. there is no longevity in On The Car cleaning – Ever. That was December 2021 – car has been running like a dream since the ‘RP’ & his mate MR Red are dead, RIP. Better than that, on a god run the average MPG just climbs and climbs. A recent trip to York I was nearly at 40mpg which is brilliant. It also turned out the car was sort of running with a blocked DPF as it had blown one of the flex joints before the CAT which was another £300 to have it replaced due to broken stud on the turbo connection. Epilogue: “If your diesel car is showing the ‘RP’ Light and she has done over 70K – Do Not get the ‘On The Car’ cleaning people to work on it, you are just kicking the can down the street. They cannot clean it properly and the light will return. A proper Off Car cleaning machine (not a Karcher pressure washer) will wash the soot out from the end it came in and remove all the ash. This is the gospel according to me and I wish I could have found this information from the beginning and saved… how much!!! £1295.00!! OUCH!!! Yes – that’s what this exercise cost me but still have the scanner tool which has helped me cure the Sat Nav issue which turned out to be a closing loop for the optical network £5.00 Ebay. So if you have money to burn, off you go, you crack on - but believe me if it’s blocked it’s blocked – the end. Get it to a professional company who remove it and flush it properly. There are many reasons the genuine JAGUAR DPF is so expensive, the build quality is far superior, the body of the DPF is much bigger than the aftermarket unit that frankly looks like a baked bean can compared to the size of the original - ergo surface area is less thus less capacity. The materials are inferior and it hangs too low. I also have noticed that the aftermarket one is rusting up nicely in my yard like some kind of Angel of the North statue which also tells me the grade of stainless is rubbish. The original one did not rust off the car while I spent ‘Loads of Dosh’. I can also park the car back on the drive and I now have that smug Jaaaaag face when washing my car and polishing my leaper. Nice. I hope you enjoyed this journey and that it was worth getting to the end like any good read and armed with this knowledge you go forth and make the right decision and save yourselves a huge amount of the folding stuff.

Hi to myself... The answer is the the front tube is the smaller one and is connected to the rear port after the for and the larger one is at the rear of the sensor is the front port before the dpf. There done😉

Hi All After removing the air deflector or bottom engine cover as I would call it for refurbishment of clips and fixings I noticed the bottom metal pipe behind the radiator is corroded and looks like it could blow at anytime and I want to replace with new bit struggling locating a diagram that gives me part number. I would appreciate any help or advice from people who have already replaced this part. Its an easy repair to do once I get the past and I will create a off of the job once done. Thanks in advance Peter (Wigan)

Hi John Fuel door fixed - now where to try it out ha ha... Well done on your DIY skills - I am 10yrs your jnr and I too can get impatient doing things on the car but I try to keep my cool as impatience just breaks things and creates more for you have to fix. All the best Peter

Morning John Well that sounded easier than I imagined it to be! I am glad you are sorted with the spares. I searched the Jaguar Workshop Manual pdf for for more help and out of the 3000+ pages I found no mechanical reference to it at all? it is quite a comprehensive file and if you use it on a PC with Adobe Acrobat or similar - it is searchable. not sure if you have a copy but its free from many places or if you private message me i can send you a copy. cabernet02@hotmail.co.uk Did you order from Jaguar or a dismantlers? Best wishes Peter

Hi John Well i think the pin has waved goodby for whatever reason - its certainly not there now? Re the metal springs - if you look deeper at the foot of the image you posted you can see it is simply a U shaped spring but in your case the shape is distorted with the legs bent out from the original shape. I think you just need to tease them back to the proper shape by say pressing home with a flat blade screw driver until the are bent back. Of course this may not be be necessary if your replacing the mechanism anyway. Your coloured door should pop of the old mechanism onto the new one. I actually broke my door clean of on my old jag but the use of a 2 part epoxy called Liquid Metal or something like that fixed it for good. the repair was way easier than removal of the mechanism. Again good luck All the best Peter (not old Peter)

Got the name the wrong way their - sorry I meant on Davids car. DOH!

Hi Sorry to butt in here - but to me the issue is most likely the 'Locking Pin' actuated by the solenoid is actually stuck inside the housing on yours but on Johns its clearly visible - red arrow in photo; My other comment is that attempts to open or close the cover it has picked up and bent the metal springs which are used to spring the door open once the solenoid pin has been retracted. I think with some gentle pressing to reform their shape - you should be able to push the springs back into the housing. I had a problem with mine not closing once opened and a good squirt of 3 in 1 oil on to the locking pin (arrow in red) and several presses of the button in the car to actuate the solenoid freed it up perfectly. I continued to press at least a dozen times and added more oil. I hope this helps and that you don't have to remove the whole mechanism. Good Luck

Hi All Straight to the point. Which hose connection is which on the Differential Pressure Sensor? I am sure I have it connected as it was with the larger hose being High pressure from the front of the dpf to the rear connection on the Sensor.... But struggling to have this confirmed. The pipe with the paint mark end is connected to the front end of the dpf. Any one who can confirm would be truly appreciated. I have a big story to tell about retro fit off non OE dpf but building the story first. Thanks in advance

Hi Gary Found your questions on the parking sensors issue which is the same as mine. I have replaced all four rear sensors and a new module and i am still not happy. All are ticking but you have to be inches away from a post before it beeps. Backing up to a wall or car is ok but much too close before getting the warning for my liking. I noticed it takes time to respond and it that time you have moved back closer to the object!! Mines a 2006 and the bumper must come off. There is a PDF on the web which gives enough info may find it somewhere on here. I had a Rover 75 conniseuir which beeps as soon as you put it in reverse and beeps slowly as you move backwards and the pulse of beeps quickens as you move closer to the object. Way better than this system. Sensing distance much greater in the region of 5 foot!!! So my point... You may be lucky and replace the sensors and all will be fine but I think the New Sensors don't work as well as they should either. I am looking at an alternative system to replace this lot of rubbish asap. Will be interested to hear how you get on. Good luck Peter.

Hi All Well i went to the dealers and the following statements were made during the discussions with management and service engineers (technicians); Q: Asked what the itemized ‘Filters’ were on the Service statement? A: Fuel, Pollen, Engine, Oil, Fuel. Some obvious as were written oil etc. Q: So can you explain these images of engine filter taken during the filter change in January 2015 approx. 8 months after servicing, and this second image of filter taken during filter change mid-April? A: OH, I will get your service record…….. Disappears for 10minutes and returns with a manager who asks where the filters are now? I replied I had disposed of the engine filter in January as I just thought that was how it was but when I removed the pollen filter in April to do an Air Con Clean I discovered the filter was in an extremely poor condition as you can see, pointing to the image. He kept pressing the point “where are the filters as your evidence”? I went on to explain that the filters were not really why I came it was more about what else possibly had NOT been done and could the other items be checked? He took the keys to check the car over out of my sight but then returned after 5 minutes with a technician holding 2 similar filters being Pollen & Engine, the engine filter was so oily the likes I have NEVER for the 39 years of working on cars seen the like of before. It was Black and covered in oil and the pollen filter was as black as the one I have changed. He said “These had just been removed from a car in for a service” and “Diesel engines are very dirty”. In my mind I said to myself if I had breathed the same air as the car from which that filter came from even 1 month I would be dead!!! He then went into a very aggressive stance saying various things about ‘Trust’ and ‘Years of service’ and ‘He would put his wife and children in the cars serviced here’ and ‘I would sack anyone I thought was not following procedure’. It pretty much fell apart after that and he sent one of his staff to the Parts Dept to fetch replacement filters and then went on to say that ‘We can no longer service or work on your car with you coming here accusing us of not carrying out the work’ and ‘I cannot have one of my technicians work on your vehicle knowing that you don’t trust us’. I said “Cars breathe from the front of the engine not the rear and I had a rover 75 diesel for 12 years and none of the air filters I changed ever looked like the one in the picture and that I was willing to bring back the engine filter after 8 months to compare with the one in the photo and if I was wrong I would apologise. I then left feeling not very good and needing a stiff drink to calm my nerves. So in August I will again post images of the filters and we will then see what is what once and for all. Thanks for reading. NOTE! The above is without prejudice as that would be silly of me.

Hi All Thanks for the replies, it has come as no surprise to hear all your dealer stories, Old Peter made me smile as I would of I could block the garage from traffic, it would be satisfying. JimC64 also suffered and noted they don't always change the filter but when they clearly have charged me for them that is a different matter, I think they call it theft!? I have decided I am going to to dealer's on Friday and give them a grilling before I post their response on the social network and local press and Jaguar themselves. It's not big and it's not clever. I serviced my 75 my self 90% of the time which is why she is still running and my daughter loves her to bits. I just thought that when you move into the classy world of Jaguar I thought it would be different but it seems all are the same. We will see what happens and I will post to keep you all informed for what it's worth. Cheers

Hi All Changed my wipers for Bosch Aero Blades with the screen wash nozzle in the blades, ordered via Halfords at £38 I think. I have an S Type and read posts about damaging the paintwork so place a towel between wipers and bonnet to protect the paint. Careful operation and removal is possible and the new ones fitted in reverse and did not need to get to 90 degrees due to the design of the wipers and their fixing, it is more like 35degrees. I had to remove the arms last weekend to change the cabin filter which some of you know already. Very stubborn but use of WD40 a couple of taps with a hammer and they came free. Not easy though. be patient. I also tried without luck to get them to stop vertically up the screen by turning off the ignition but it is a Lucy car and happily parks them every time. You would curse if they didn't wouldn't you Good luck

Hi all Well having owned my S Type 2.7D Sport for nearly a year now I thought I would check both the air filters which were supposed to have been changed in June last year at the Dealers! You will see from the attached images the old ones are NOT less than a year old!!! We drive 20 miles a day to and from work mostly at around 50mph and a maximum of 7000 a year. The receipt is also attached showing it was a B service @£400 not the 'A' service being the cheaper one. Service was done at Dealer in Warrington, not saying who but I CAN tell you all it won't be going back there as long as I have a breath in my body. I am not sure if I should take this further or just moved on. The other issue now being raised is what other work have they not done, fuel filter, oil filter being the important ones! I have found a Jag guy in Wigan on the internet and he gets good reviews out doors anyone know better? The car is fantastic and a perfect follow on from my Rover 75 Conny with one exception being the parking sensors, and it's the center ones. 12 years I had the Rover and never any issue in that area. Ah well. That's all for now. Signing off Mr Angry :-\

Yes my boss fell foul of this site too, you must always check the site your on is correct. Spoof sites trend to always have part of the name of the site you think you are logging into,, beware.

Thanks for the welcome and the feed back which is duly noted, The Auto GH lym products as a tad expensive but I will look into this a little more. I like the saddle soap idea as it's historically the commonest leather care that I had simply forgot, DOH! I think I will try this first and let it fry then get some coloured polish to match the dove grey to bring up the color again. Because of the perforation's I guess I will have to apply with a brush very sparingly to prevent it going into the holes which could then contaminate ones clothes. Thanks to all Peter

Hi Peter Thanks for the quick reply, another Peter, not that many of us around :-). Mine are also dove grey/charcoal mix, I will try and get some help from my dealer when she goes for her service next week. Thanks again Peter

Yes, another newbie to the fold... Just bought an 2006 S Type 2.7 Sport and I am in love, first Jag ever, what a car. 63k dealer FSH and all receipts, gold with leaper (fitted by the first owner Stratstone Jaguar), not a scratch or dent or chip in the paint at all for just 6K, simply cherished by the previous owner and now me. My boss is stunned to an ivy colour I kid you not. I have read tons of stuff about the s type but nothing about how to maintain the perforated leather seats, can some kind sole offer advice on products etc, the seats are in great nick but I want to put some of the color back and feed the leather itself to keep it supple? Thanks in advance Peter