jampot

I live on a common with small potholes, going over them causes a knock from said wheel, if I gently apply the foot brake the knocking stops, I have replaced roll bar bushes , well all the front bushes and joints after another knock drove me crazy and I lost my temper replacing all the front suspension, now its trying its luck again, I replaces the caliper pins Saturday but its still there, I have been around trucks and cars for 46 years so I know my way around, wonder if anyone has come across this before I replace both front calipers and caliper brackets , more expence .

Anyone replaces the rear brake pipes on your S Type, did you pull your hair out or is it not a too difficult job

I done my belt from the top, same method as you but I never touched the battery, I tried that many belts to find one to fit that I can do a belt change in 5 minutes.

Yes I have the belt fitted and all is well thank you, and the part number is written in large letters on the workshop wall. Thanks again for your help

Great thanks for that, I will give them a call, I will be glad to get this sorted.

Hello, its SAJAC1P73FM75185 . Thanks in advance.

What have I got to do to get this !Removed! belt, we tried all the belts Europarts have and not one was long enough, Jag said there is only one belt for the S Type sir and its this one, like to see them fit a belt that's 4 " to short.

My 3.0 S Type has done 160000 miles, it still pull like a train and at tick over the engine is still almost silent, oil is changed every 5000 miles, yes I know, but my mate done that with a 145 Volvo and it did 302000 miles with no problem.

Help !!!!! I have a beautiful S Type, 2002 3'0 v6, I have ordered a new aux belt for it and each time I get the wrong one, its to short, everyone insists there is only one belt stated for my car, putting the two belts together mine is a few inches longer , anyone have any idea's or help because this is driving me up the wall.

My unlocking program sorted itself out, it has another weird problem now, on the same stretch of road my engine management light comes on, I just clear the fault then it does it again the next time I drive that road , its next to a farm so I am wondering if their transmitter has something to do with it.

Just a quick update to a misfire I had, I was out and about and had to fill with fuel and I filled up with Shell petrol instead of my local BP garage and the misfire has gone, she don't like BP, or supermarket fuel for that matter.

I got the one whats in your link, its in the car at the moment and the wife has gone out in it, I have had the manifold off my friends S Type, I cheated a little, I undone as little as possible and propped it up with a piece of wood, like you I will get high quality parts then its done.

Hello Russ, its started working ok now, but that what was putting me off was taking the door trim off, these locking systems seem to have a mind of their own. I have one of those OBD readers and I get on ok with it, but I brought a better one off ebay that does Jag and Land Rover, it found a dodgy wheel sensor then the car was telling me gearbox fault, hope you get your locking system sorted, I have now got to find why I am getting a slight misfire on gentle load, might be time for coil packs

No the spare is the same, I think I will live with it rather than pull the door trim off, I was just curious to see if anyone else had ever had this problem Many thanks David .

I have a small problem with my central locking, locking the vehicle is fine, but unlocking I have to press the button a few times, sometimes I have to use the key in the door, but if I press the unlocking button on the key and flick the drivers door handle a few times it unlocks, now before I pull the drivers door trim off does anyone agree the problem is in the door.

As mentioned I would start by replacing the battery and checking the earth, we had a Range Rover in with a list of faults, Land Rover wanted the owners right arm, fixed with a new battery.

Update... After having a louder word with the workshop foreman they have admitted the cam belt had snapped (only been on 5 weeks ) when they picked the car up, they also admitted to putting another cam belt on to cover up the first snapping and trying to clear the blame on their part, only after this did I tell them I found the broken belt on the side of the road, so its a new engine or I will have a even louder word. To be honest I am disgusted the way they tried to treat a female customer.

They made contact last week.

I know what they have done, the belt broke because it was fitted to tight, they went out to collect the car off the side of the road and when they got the car back to their garage they fitted a new belt,(to look like it had not broken,) I said tell me how the engine damage was caused if the belt did not break, they said do you understand engines, I said after 44 years of playing around with the yes, , I said we both know what happened so you better put another engine in that girls car, you have 14 days.

I have been to look at the car and the valves have hit the pistons, ( no compression) taking off the cam belt cover there is still a belt fitted to the vehicle, removing the belt I could turn the camshafts and water pump and idler pulley so what I think has happened is they fitted a belt to tight, it broke, they collected the vehicle and fitted a new belt. I did not touch the car, one of the workshop staff removed cover ect, if there was no belt they could say a stone must have got between the belt and a pulley, but I have never known anything to cause valve to piston contact, other than maybe reving the engine flat out standing still or incorrect timing when fitted. Thank you by the way for your reply, it has answerd many questions what to do.

You must never degrade another person, whatever their problem as you never know what's around the corner.

My wife's friend took her Lexus to a garage to have the cam belt replaced, they changed the water pump and idler, 5 weeks (180 ) miles later the cam belt snapped with valve to piston contact, the garage said they are not going to explain to a woman who does not know anything about engines, but its nothing to do with the work they done, anything could have caused it to snap, yea pump or idler giving up but they changed them, the cams still turn ok, now who agrees with me it was put on to tight and its their fault, the reason I ask is am I missing something here, maybe 80000 miles later but not 180. Just needs some ones advice before I take a ride over there and lose my temper.

Thanks again, rang the guy who had the car before me and he has the hand book there, remember the days when you had 8 fuses and what they were was printed on the lid.

Thank you for that information.

Ok, I am Mr idiot, Where is the fuse on a 2002 Jaguar S type for the brake lights.