PVBarri

Had my 2.7 D from new (Dec 2006), it's coming up for 100k and I still love it. The electronic handbrake has never missed a beat. If you don't run it for a couple of weeks you might find some awkward problems so I would definitely invest in a good battery charger/conditioner (CTEK 7 is what I have). Can't really say about the gearbox or it's longevity because I had a 'fault' indicated and it locked into safe mode at around 60k so I had a Jaguar re-conditioned replacement fitted, which was never as smooth as the original. However, in hindsight, this was a big, very expensive mistake, because the problem was almost certainly one of the wheel sensors, which are prone to failure (but inexpensive to have fixed) and for some reason cause DSC failure warnings, amongst others, and a gearbox fault warning.

Many thanks for that Steve. There seems to be a lot going 'in-car' on while parked and I got caught out while camping a couple of years back (had to get the RAC out!) so one of these might be just the ticket.

Hi. Just ordered a CTEK 7 and asked the company how I could use it without having to lift the boot floor each time. Their answer was; Our chargers from MXS 7 comes with eyelet accessory and a clamp accessory. The additional accessory CTEK Cig-Plug (56-263) fits both 12 millimeter and 21 millimeter outlets and has a maze-like strain relief for the user’s safety. It has a 40 cm cable. Note that the vehicle needs to have power on the cigarette outlet when not in use. Check that before buying. If that is not possible, you connect according to vehicle manual! My bog-standard S type (2.7D SE) has 2 cigar sockets, 1 in front and one in rear, but neither work when the ignition is off. At this point, as a non-technical type, I read Blah Blah Blah Blah so was pleased to find the above in the forum. Love the idea of mounting a CTEK connector as Paul has done (am going to order one today) and having the 20V aux socket but (again, as a non-technical type) I wondered if somebody could give me some more detailed instructions for installing the aux socket. E.g. is there any particular fuse I should use? The wiring layout etc. Any guidance/advice for installing both the CTEK connector and/or the aux. socket would be warmly appreciated. Many thanks in advance. Paul P.S. Being a little lazy so not checking another 'topic' directly...... Rear proximity sensor(s) activating with constant tone as soon as reverse selected. I understand that, in the normal course, the sensors each emit a 'noise' which indicates whether they are working but can't see how I can do this if the alarm is going anyway. Didn't really want to take Jeremy to the car doctor unless necessary so wondered if anyone might have any thoughts?

56 reg 2.7. Cautionary tale. Had my compressor replaced last year, at Chichester dealership, and it cost around £750. Car went in for a service shortly after and they found a aircon coolant leak. I gave them the evil (so are you going to sort your mistake out) eye but was told by the 'abashed' workshop manager that it wasnt the compressor or an error with the installation but a blown hose that would need replacing. A days work with a quote of £900! Yes. Really. "Needed time to think". I said. (which really meant get another quote from an independant Jag specialist in Portsmouth). After looking into it for 5 days they gave me an estimate of £750 but said they "wouldn't thank me for the work". I have a service contract with the main dealership that includes 15% off parts and 20% off labour so booked it in (brand new XE as a loaner (OK; but I wouldn't trade in for Jeremy)). 3 1/2 days later Jeremy was ready for collection! Dealerships get some bad press but there was no mention of upping the price (the difference between a quote and an estimate) and climate control is back to its brilliant self...... but ouch.

Bit late in replying but there is a word that is perfect................ Fugly. I love the English language.

Hi all. Apologies to gr1 for not answering (last year!). No excuses; just haven't been on the forum for a while. Anyway, at the time, the 3 choices available to me were: 1. Get my gearbox fixed. 2. Jaguar, reconditioned replacement box. 3. New box. I needed the car so chose No. 2. at around 3k. However, I always wondered if that was a mistake. In hindsight, I would have paid the extra £800 ish and got the new box and taken the old one back to have it refurbished later. Why? Well, I was always highly sceptical about an indicator light and gear-lock safety function necessitating such major work (expecially in light of ktp's comments above!) and would have liked to know what the problem was. Also, given that it had only done around 60,000 'easy' miles and I dont want to change the car unless I absolutely have to, I may end up having the same problem with what I now believe to be a smooth but frail gearbox so, in theory, I would already have a box - though in reality I would probably have sold it having at least satisfied my curosity as to whether it was a mechanical fault or, as with kpt, simply a faulty sensor. Ho hum.

Had an XR3i (in my youth) and waxoiled extensively. Had it many years and nil rust. Now have a 56 Reg S-Type and would like to keep it so it looks as if I had better pull my finger out and apply waxoil to it also; and soon. However, I'm not that knowledgeable about the Jags and there doesn't seem to be a Haynes manual for the S type. Anybody know of any workshop manuals that will lead me through things like sill removal and refitting ? ...............

Many thanks for the company information Peter, and for your reply Martin. Just curious as to what the diagnostic indicator was? Or did you not go to a Jag dealership. They showed me the diagnostic result and the report / line that indicated a 'mechanical fault rather than a software one but, unfortunately, I didn't keep a copy. I will be asking for it, however, when I collect the car on Friday. As I said, for £4k I'm hoping for something a little more specific regarding the cause. Paul

Much obliged Peter. I may be stuck with the dealership option because I do need the car but I believe the info you are trying to get will be useful because; 1. heaven forbid........... I'll need their services again! 2. it may be of help to other members - I have been getting hints of problems with Jaguar gearboxes but nothing difinitive about the ZF auto for the S-type auto. and 3. I am considering taking this further. I.e. asking Jaguar (rather than the dealership) for a reason for the cause of the problem. After all, if they are going to strip out my gearbox they must be able to determine what the problem was - even if it's too late to avoid the bill! Paul

Sorry if this has been raised before but new to the forum and I couldn't find any topic directly relevant so raising a new one. I have a 2.7 diesel, auto (ZF box I believe) in an S-type that I have had since new (December 06). I do around 8,000 a year - mostly motorway driving - and the car has been brilliant............ right up until Monday, when the ABS fault light ("disc not available") came on and, in what I believe is a separate problem, the day before yesterday when the gearbox fault light came on. With the latter the car seemed to be stuck in one gear because when I took it to the dealership in Chichester yesterday it stuck at 3000 RPM at 50 MPH along a dual carrageway. Dealership plugged it in and the verdict, based on the diagnostic printout, is that I have a mechanical problem and the cure is either a: a replacement 'exchange' box from Jaguar at a shade over £4000 or b: sending it off for a gearbox refurbishment at a shade over £3000. Have gone for the former, which I have been assured is essentially a new gearbox in the old casing, because of time (its quicker and I need the car (and they don't have a loaner at such short notice)) and because I am hoping that if there are any inherent faults with the ZF auto box; they have been 'developed out. However, can't help but wonder about the need for a replacement/full refurb based on a software diagnostic...... Anybody had similar problems? Any comments welcome.