Rowley_1812

TODAY ... SAILED THROUGH MOT WITH NO ADVISORIES (YET AGAIN!!) No advisories in all MOT's these last 6 years. Zircon blue with champagne interior and 17" belize alloys - 119k on the clock. I'm the 4th owner, bought it in Nov 2014 with 69k miles. 2x working keys + Handbook and other booklets in original folder. FSH (mainly my trusty Indy), cared for unsparingly. Serviced 62k, 75k, 86k, 95k, 102k, 110k, 117k. I have really appreciated this car so am selling with regret but the fact is I need a petrol conveyance which is ULEZ compliant as my family are growing up in London and my assistance with grandchildren and general visits will become more regular. I would really like my lovely X-type to go to a good home as it will be much missed and it has many years of excellent service still to give. Of interest ... 4x Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric tyres (2 @ 110k, 2 @ 105k) Overrunning Alternator Pulley (OAP) fitted (@ 95k in Apr '17) 4x refurbished injectors (@ 116k in late 2019) Rear seats hardly used Spacesaver (never used) Annual Road Tax £165. Everything works. £1500 OVNO

I'm surprised that the AWD option plus winter tyres combination didn't please you Walter, then you would have had the best of both worlds!

Perhaps an obvious response but maybe it would be worth checking the battery for both age and correct size. There's so much that depends upon the battery, especially when starting up and if you've just bought the car, it always pays to ensure you have the most appropriate and lively power block and not some old knackered piece of kit that the vendor wanted to get rid of and swapped it between viewing and collection. It happens!

When mine lost power like you it was accompanied by a background hissing noise, like escaping air. Turned out to be the intercooler hose with a small but developing split somewhere hidden. The split was really quite small, just shows that it doesn't take much to affect performance. The clips have also been known to degrade with age and create the same effect. Like Rich, my money would be on a hose or associated clips in that area.

I shouldn't worry about those in the Big House Peter, or indeed those in the Other Place, having to pay any extra charge. I believe they call it 'expenses' !

Morning Peter, As explained, according to TfL my (55) 2.0d is NOT compliant which is why I'm interested in hearing from others of same year and model. They don't need to be Londoners, they can be anywhere in the UK just input your reg number into the link below ... https://tfl.gov.uk/modes/driving/emissions-surcharge/compliance-checker My research has also uncovered that although the V5C states that the car is Euro-4 compliant (trigger point for the charge) the vehicle is actually only certified to Euro-3 by Jaguar. I'm told that those 2005 models with the EGR valve powered by vacuum but switched electrically are those that meet Euro-4 limits but are still formally certified as Euro-3 by regulation. Like mine. In terms of T-charge exemption I'm not sure that the DPF means much. Best, Rowley

I'm receiving mixed messages regarding whether or not my 2005 (55) 2.0d should be exempt from the new London T-charge. According to the TfL compliance checker link my car is NOT exempt. When entering the VIN on the Jaguar TOPIx site it states "Model year : 2006" and under emissions : "Stage IV Requirements" which suggests to me Euro-4 compliant which IS exempt. The V5C shows 149 k/gm against emissions which suggests pre-Euro-4 so NOT exempt. Is there anyone out there with a 2005 2.0d that IS exempt? If yes, do please post.

Beg pardon Colin, apologies for doubting you, of course there's a 2.1 V6 petrol (2001-08) ... 'cos you've got one!! You learn something new every day, but it looks like Parkers don't refer to it as a 2.1 as they badge it as a 2.0 V6. But then you know all that by now as you're way ahead of me. As for the exact model, that may take more than one glass of wine to sort out! http://www.parkers.co.uk/jaguar/x-type/saloon-2001/20-v6-4d/specs/

Save asking a multitude of questions, have a look at this and work out what you've got. I can answer one thing though, if you're petrol you're either 2.5 or 3.0 litre. x-type-2006.pdf

Hi Colin, me again. I'm not a great DIY buff but it would help others who are more that way inclined to answer your Qs if you could confirm exactly which model you've got. Rowley

Hi Colin, Welcome to the Forum. An 03 with only 37k sounds a bit of a steal, do hope you're happy with it and there are no major issues. With that mileage I guess it's petrol. Anyway, I've always wondered about replacing the static armrest with a slider so will be interested in how you get on using an item from a much older model. And look forward to the pics. Best, Rowley

Hi James, A phone call to your local stealer will give you a price, likely as not into 3 figures! If I'm right then the good old interweb will find you something much more wallet-friendly so I'm thinking eBay or Amazon to name but two. Once you've purchased then you can program it to your car yourself. Simples! Good luck, Rowley

Sorry to be late on the scene John, but from reading about DPFs elsewhere it would seem that many do indeed experience various noises whilst the regeneration is taking place, some even mention extra smoke when booting it and the most common advice seems to be not to turn the engine off during regeneration. Thankfully my model is not troubled with a DPF, but I had one on a previous car and I found it to be a damn nuisance. Personally I think they're more trouble than their worth but some would argue that if you look after it then it will look after you; either way, if you've got one I'm afraid you're stuck with it. Google it and you'll get all sorts of views.

Many thanks David, an interesting contribution.

Hi Walter, I have it on good authority that you need to try Osram Night Breaker Unlimited or Philips X-Treme Vision +130% as apparently they are the best "halogen" bulbs you can buy and are available in H1 fit. They give the most light where you need it. Try this link ... http://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/jaguar-car-bulbs.html Best, Rowley

If the 55 plate is ...JLV then it looks far more promising, but of course you're in a higher price bracket. Examine the paperwork, the oil leak was noted as an advisory in June 2016, along with worn front brake discs and corroded rear brake pipes ... but none of the above appeared on the 19/05/17 MOT which had no advisories ... and it's only done 5,000 odd miles in the last year. You could legitimately ask if receipts are available for the last year on these items to confirm the work was done.

Above advice still holds good, especially Joe's. Also check all the steering wheel buttons work properly and remember that the tail gate window should open separate to the door as well as together, always worth checking. And if it's reg ...VZO on Autotrader (Bracknell) then look at the advisories on the latest MOT (06/06) that states thin brake pads, worn disc and under body corrosion 'cos there will be expense looming sooner rather than later. If it is that car then I believe you could do better than that for the money so if it were me ... I'd walk away.

Hi Allen, I suggest that would depend upon your definition of 'amateur'. I'm no DIY buff but having had my independent mechanic recently fit an Overrunning Alternator Pulley (OAP) which is in the same area as the job you describe, there are special tools that are required in order for the work to be completed properly so unless you are in the highest quartile of 'amateur' (with a comprehensive toolkit!) I would suggest a qualified mechanic. Whilst there it would be a good idea to replace the auxiliary belt (more tools!). Pity you're not in South London for I fear I have no connections in Brum. Good Luck.

Joe's advice seems spot on Darren, but you don't mention the mileage, nor whether you're thinking of buying from a Dealer or Private. Each will have their upsides and their downs but be more aware of the Private Seller as you will have no come back in the event of problems. Now I'm no mechanical expert but as with any car I would start with the Service History (with invoices if poss) and be ready to walk away if there are big gaps unaccounted for or your questions are not answered both satisfactorily and convincingly. Look for any visible signs of excessive wear or lack of TLC like untended bodywork scrapes and dings, excessively scratched alloys, worn or tatty rubber door seals, uneven gaps in body sections, filthy engine compartment ... any or all of which might lead you to think that the car hasn't been well looked after. Then of course a test drive is a must when you listen out for unwanted noises and rattles, slack steering, loose or noisy gear changes, blue/grey/black smoke (especially when accelerating), spongy foot brake ... I could go on, but I'm sure you know by now what I'm getting at. As far as I'm aware there are no known longstanding problems that should prevent you from both buying and enjoying a well-cared-for X-type ... just be careful. Good luck.

Hi Nick, welcome to the Forum. Does your cruise control remain active despite the beeps? If yes, do you have Adaptive Cruise Control (ACC) fitted? If yes, does the beep sound similar to the parking/collision sensor warning? If yes, then I would be referring to my handbook for a solution as it is my guess that there may be a connection. If any answer is 'no' then I must defer to others better qualified and more experienced than myself. Just a thought ... hope it helps.

Same has happened to me Steve, and be re-assured that it is a common problem. Mine seems to have corrected itself or maybe I've just got used to it ... there certainly seems to be a knack involved. In my case I pressed down on the cap at the point it was ineffectively spinning and it somehow reset itself on the thread. If that doesn't work then pull the cap up until it bites. It took me a few attempts to work it out and a bit of frustrated muscle became involved too. The cap seems to have a mind of its own.

Hey Richard, I'll let you call me Dave, but just this once! And my model's 2005, you state yours as 2004. Apart from those two minor inaccuracies you seem to be on the ball! BTW ... it's always been red in my ownership, no idea what the factory colour should be but no doubt a Jaguar dipstick expert might be able to answer that one for you.

Ditto ...

It is my understanding that both 17" and 18" wheels are compatible for a 2005 X type for which you must obviously also purchase appropriate sizes of tyres. But you would do well to carry out your own research on this, perhaps have a word with somebody like Performance Alloys http://www.PerformanceAlloys.com who I'm sure will be able to advise you regarding compatibility, ride quality and tyre sizes.

Hi Phil, welcome to the Forum. Your topic is of interest to me so I've done some research. It would seem that Aruba alloys have a poor reputation for cracking. That said, they are available in either a cast alloy or a forged alloy, the latter of which is an 'Aruba Performance' and is reputed to be stronger than the cast option. Not sure how you tell the difference mind, you'll need expert advice on that (or a more knowledgeable Forum contributor). So, if you stick with Aruba then you need the forged variety. Otherwise you could change to another style or you could step down to 17" wheels and have higher profile tyres that are likely to tolerate more abuse and give a softer ride. Either way, perhaps a chat with your local wheel/tyre specialist would be useful. Tyre option graphic attached. Hope this helps.