DO55MAC

Hi all. I am interested in purchasing a Jaguar XE 2.0 GTDi R-Sport petrol engine, 2015 with 47000 miles. I have read with interest the posts about timing chain issues, but was wondering if these affect the petrol 240 bhp engine, or is the issue contained to the diesel engines? Does anybody have any idea how much it might cost to get them repaired preemptively? It appears a hefty repair bill if they do go wrong. Obvioulsy, any advice and guidance greatly appreciated. Cheers. Mac.

Ah, thanks for the correction, Leo. Sorry if my reply misled you, Barrie J, that obviously wasn't the intention. Have you sorted out the problem, and if so what was the cause?

I bought my 2011 facelift XK with 37k miles in March. Since then, like a fool, I've been trying to see if I did the right thing and bought at the right time; I've been tracking similar age and mileage models on Autotrader before and since. When I bought mine, there were anything between 3 and 6 similar cars available throughout the UK for about £21k (there were a few pre-facelift cars as well). However, recently I have seen as few as no facelift models with 45k miles for less than £23k, and often there are only one or 2. Am I right in thinking our cars are becoming more collectable as the modern classic that has been mentioned for some time, combined with the move away from petrol engines into the electric market (and the fewer V8s being produced as a result) or could it simply be Autotrader fees are so expensive sellers are moving away? I'm interested in thoughts and obviously this might be of interest to quite a few other people to time when to buy/when to sell. Thanks in advance.

Hi Barrie J. I saw your post and it immediately reminded of other posts I'd seen with respect to the wet rear passenger footwell carpet. It seems there is a long standing issue with the "valley pipe draining condensation from the air conditioning can block" (copied from another thread, not my words!). If you have a look on this site using the search facility, it'll give you far more info but suffice to say, I think it is quite a common problem. Good luck.

I use an old sweet tin. Any tin as long as it's made of metal and is completely sealed will do, and you'll probably have one lying around somewhere. Maybe use 2 slightly different sizes, and invert one into the other - that should work.

Can anybody advise me on how to get the correct part number for the callipers (front and rear, left and right) for my specific model of XK (just the plain old 2011 facelift XK X150, not the XK-R or XK-RS). As mentioned above, my plan is to get an older pair refurbished (probably powder coated) to fit onto my car, then refurbish my old pair to sell on and recoup some of the outlay. Is it something I can search for myself or do I need to speak with Jaguar customer services or the Jag dealer to find out? There appear to be many subtly different designs/shapes on Fleabay showing quite a few different variants, so it's a bit confusing! Pictures of my callipers are shown in the photos where they are fitted to my car, and the other pictures are what I am seeing on Fleabay:

I've just bought my XK and have been reading the many topics in this forum with interest. One relatively common theme is the need for a good, strong battery. With the lockdown, I don't foresee me doing many miles, and it could be a couple of weeks between journeys (even then, only 40 mile round trip to work and back). I was wondering if I should get a charger to trickle charge the battery or maybe just take the car for a 40 mile drive every weekend (due to the MPG, I reckon a decent charger might be cost-effective!). If I opt for the trickle charger, is a few hours over a weekend enough and can I just plug it in while fitted to the car, or would I need to disconnect the battery first? Next question - what do I need to remove in the boot to get to the battery? Has anybody got any views or recommendations on this, as I'm sure there may be others in a similar situation. Thanks very much, Mac

Thanks Barrie. Looks nice on the black wheels. My wheels are silver, so not sure yellow will go. The picture below is the same look as mine (almost!), but isn't my vehicle:

I've finally taken the plunge and have progressed from an X-Type, onto an XF and now onto an XK. I've opted for the facelift 2011 model and can't stop grinning. It's a stunning car. The only thing that lets it down is the tatty brake calipers; they are covered in surface rust and generally unsightly. I was thinking of buying a used set from a breakers or similar, getting these cleaned and powder coated, then putting these on the car. Once I'd done that, I was going to refurb my old ones to sell on and recoup some of the cost. There is a full set on fleabay for about £500, and I was wondering if this was good value and how to tell if they'll fit my car. Also, does anybody have any idea how much it might cost to get a full set of calipers powder coated? The car is black, and I wondering if any of you have ideas for colours; red is the obvious choice but does anybody have any side profile pictures of other colours (and red, so I can compare!). Thanks in advance. Mac

This fits in exactly with the issue I am having, and yes, it does appear to be the loom. Fingers crossed the new loom fixes the problem. Cheers, Mac

Hi Taf. The auto-electrician effected a temporary repair to the loom which has fixed the camera, but the quality is incredibly poor. However, the fact that the repair, albeit temporary and not very good, has given me back at least a very poor image implies to me that he was correct and it is the loom, not the software. He has got the loom now and I'll get it fitted in the next couple of weeks. I will keep you all updated via this thread, hopefully getting a few pictures as he goes. The loom cost £40 ish (+VAT) and will take a couple of hours to fit. He charges £50/hour (including VAT) so hopefully not too expensive. Thanks to everybody for their help, I'll be back soon to update you all. Cheers, Mac

Thanks Ceri. The auto-electrician diagnosed a problem with the loom. He has sourced a replacement from Jaguar which is about £50 (probably need to add VAT to that!), so I just said to go ahead. The part won't be available for a couple of weeks so I'll let you know if it resolves the problem. Thanks for your response. Mac

Ceri, this sounds like it could be a solution to my problem. Do you know if this is a standard cable for all models of XF (saloon, not Sportbrake), and if so can you give me an idea of cost, part number and where you got it from? Any help greatly appreciated. Thanks, Mac

Hi. The reversing camera on my 2011 XF started to fail intermittently a while ago, final giving up the ghost just before Christmas. I've had an auto-electrician look at the problem and he has diagnosed a crushed/crimped co-axial cable somewhere in the boot. Can anybody advise where I might be able to get hold of a parts diagram to identify the part number so I can try to locate and buy an after marker part rather than having to go to a Jaguar dealer and paying their prices (I'll check the dealer as well, as they might be cheaper!). Thanks in advance. Mac

Can anybody advise on the brake pad wear sensor please? My warning light came on a few weeks ago and I sought professional advice from a local garage. We inspected the pads together and he assured me there is plenty of "meat" left on the pads (thousands of miles, in his opinion). The only thing he could suggest is that in his experience, the edge of the disc has been known to cut through the sensor cable, triggering the fault. He said there was only one sensor cable for the front and one cable for the rear so all I need to do is change the cable(s). So I have a couple of questions if anybody can help: Is he right about the sensor cables (one each front and rear)? Does this sound feasible? Has anybody experienced this in the past, and did the suggestion clear the warning? All I am doing at the moment is clearing the warning when it comes on (every time I restart the car), but I want to make sure there's not something more sinister and I am putting myself at risk each time I get into the car; I don't normally mess around when it has anything to do with brakes, hence my immediate visit to the local garage, but I am now beginning to wonder if there might be a more dangerous problem and I need to something sooner rather than later. Thanks in advance for your help. Mac

Thanks very much for your responses. I went to the mtec website and priced the whole lot up a lot cheaper than quoted by Jag for just one set. I visited a local garage and they checked my pads, and said the rear ones were worst but still have at least 25% left, so reckon it is the brake wear harness has probably worn through on the edge of the disc. He'll fit the new sensor for a few quid - result. So, next question, is how do I remove the constant warning until I get the harness - any ideas greatly appreciated. Cheers again. Mac

I had the dreaded yellow triangle of expense flash up on my dash of my 3.0 XF-S diesel yesterday saying my brake pads need replacing. Has anybody got any ideas of how much I should be expecting to pay for pads (front and rear) or pads and discs (again, front and rear). Also, any idea how many miles I can ignore it for? I need to get it checked to see if it's just one set or 2, and whether it's just pads or pads and discs, so am just asking so as not to fall off my chair (Jaguar want £385 for one set of pads and discs (that does include VAT!!). Thanks in advance for any help. Cheers, Mac

I know my XF is 2011 (facelift) but I have connected my Samsung S7 Edge. Is yours the new style XF or an older old style?

I bought a 2007 X-type with 50 000 miles on the clock about 3 years ago. The first thing I had done was a Terraclean (decoke in my thought process!). The result was startling. Overnight I got a 10 mpg improvement, although this settled down to 5 after about a month, but the difference in drive was incredible. The pull away and acceleration was really smooth and instant, no lag or stutter. I'd recommend it to anybody with a few miles on the clock - worth every penny.

Hi. I am trying to convince myself that an XK is the next step from my XF 3.0 S D, but am torn about what model/year to look at. I really like (no, REALLY like) the XK-R (it's those vents in the bonnet!!) but am trying to justify the extra expense of the 5.0 engine over the 4.2. I was wondering if the same 8-speed gearbox as my XF is used on the 2011 XK, and if so, what year did they introduce it to the XK. It's such a beautiful gearbox that I'd like to stick with it if possible. Thanks for any advice. Mac

Can anybody tell me where to find the diagnostic plug location in my XF? I'm thinking of buying myself one of the plug-in diagnostic readers to allow me to check any warning lights that might crop up or cancel down any unnecessary warnings. To that end - has anybody had any experience of these DIY kits, and are they worth the money? Cheers, Mac

I have recently bought my 2011 XF and I was wondering if there was any way I could find out if there had been any dealer recalls on the model and whether they had been carried out, or if there were any non-recall repairs the dealer should carry out for free (I have read about the fuel tank "slosh" and was wondering if that counts)? Obviously I want to make sure my car is as safe and up to date as possible, but wouldn't know if any repairs have been carried out. As usual, any help gratefully received. Cheers, Mac

Basically my fuel filler flap doesn't lock. Even when the keys are at least 100 metres away the flap can be opened, either by pushing the flap in and releasing, or by getting my nail behind the flap and pulling. Does anybody have any idea how the solenoid sequence works, can it be reset or if the solenoid might be stuck? Is there an internal release mechanism that I'm not aware of? I would have thought that when locking the car, the plunger would pop out and lock the cap, but alas, no, not mine! I'm a bit miffed because the plunger on my old X Type also failed, so that's 2 from 2!!! I'd appreciate any help, thanks. Mac

Has anybody declared to their insurance company that they have had their ECU chipped and if so, can they advise on what the effect on their insurance premium was? I was thinking of getting my 3.0D S chipped for better fuel economy as I understand the BHP is still increased in order to get the car into higher gears earlier, so you get the best of both worlds (I don't want this thread to run into a "Why would you buy a Jaguar for MPG and not MPH" - because I can easily lose my licence with 275 BHP, even if it is chipped down for MPG, that's why). However, I'm a bit "risk averse" when it comes to my insurance so would probably declare the mod if I proceeded but as I know how the companies will squirm like a squirmy thing to get out of paying up, and wouldn't want to void my insurance for a few mpg!! I wouldn't want to raise suspicion by going direct to the insurers to ask, hence this topic. Cheers in advance, Mac

Can anybody advise on whether the XF low windscreen wash dashboard warning message is standard or an option? Travelling home last night I noticed that the windscreen wash had stopped working on every request (press the end of the wiper stalk), but did operate every now and then. I assumed it had run low, and only operates every fourth request (I think I read this in the manual), so I tried it again and again, but there seemed to be no rationale as to when it would squirt, and no warning sign to tell me the reservoir was low. Does anybody know if this sounds normal, or should I expect to see a warning on the dashboard when the reservoir is low and whether there might be a problem emerging? I've only had the car less than one month so it's still under warranty, but am due to take a long journey next weekend and the last thing I need this time of year is no windscreen wash (I'm not sure if I'm even road-worthy without it!!!!). Thanks for any help/advice. Cheers.