dekse

ok, so I have changed the tank, thanks joe. and there was a significant improvement in leakage, but this morning I noticed a small wet patch again underneath the front, oh no I thought, when I took a closer look, it now appears there must be a tiny hole in the rubber pipe that is directly under the tank, the pipe that has a T piece moulded into it, the leak is from this T piece itself, it looks like I will have to find the original part and it's a lengthy pipe, unless anyone can recommend a repair for hot rubber piping. thanks again. derek.

thanks joe , I see what you mean now, I ordered the tank today, I will let you know the outcome next week. dek.

hi joe, i had a look this morning, the bottle only seems to empty when the car is running, never when cold? i can still drive short journeys, but have to take water with me. i looked underneath at the hose that joins the bottle, but couldn't see the metal clip you described, only what looked like a fat black plastic knurled knob type effort with the hose attached to it, thought it would tighten but couldn't budge it. i don't want to take the bottle off until i get a new one, thanks again.

thanks joe that will be helpful, mine must have a crack underneath it as it keeps leaking.

hi, has anyone ever replaced the coolant header tank on an s type 3.0. 53 reg, any tips, how easy, where is the sensor, and any advice on buying one? thanks dek.

hi, would the x type wheels fit the s type, electronic handbrake version, regards derek

hi steve, they might be the ones for the top row you will probably not use them as they pop out alright in one piece,, i used these underneath, ebay no. 221949784452 you won't be able to screw them in either just push the inside in, and force the screw through them. rubbish these plastic scrivets are.

hi just yank them out with long nose pliers and buy new ones like i did, just put mine back together this morning, with plenty of grease, easy job . look at my previous posts

getting this lot sorted on friday at manchester welders trafford park, jack the boss has seen it all before on these s types, last month he had to fabricate 2 new outer sills and inner sills, for one. mine isn't that bad yet, and can be patched up, and rust proofed. £350 for both sides, the problem is, he reckons water runs underneath the removable sill cover below the bottom of the doors where you step in, when it rains and when you wash the car, it collects in the bottom of the sill and can't drain away, you will notice pre cut holes in the sill when you take the cover off, i'm going to get these filled. also at the front of the sills where the wheel kicks the wet up there are big gaps, can't understand why they were built like this. i'm going to take the plastic wheel arch liners off, i reckon their will be a lot of crud under them aswell, anyone any info on removing them? thanks derek.

hi steve and russ, , steve the 8 black scrivets along the bottom edge would not unscrew, i levered them out about a millimeter with a flat blade screwdriver, and pulled them out with long nosed pliers, some might be re-usable, but you will need at least 10 new ones to replace some with. when you get these out, release the front mudguard from the arch if fitted as this is part of the cover, and then place a good soft cover or piece of old carpet the full length of the sill cover below it on the deck, because you might snap it in half if it falls, it's very flimsy. pull it outwards towards you from the rear firmly but don't bend it., the clips that hold it on are horizontal, it will slowly snap off along the length. good luck and i hope yours is ok. but i wouldn't bet on it. russ i didn't need the tool as above and no just 2 sets of clips like joe says. good luck.

sick as a dog, going to contact a welder to-morrow, see if they can be repaired., thanks for all your concern. derek

well i took both sill covers off and the outer sills are both corroded badly right through near the back, holes big enough to get your fist through, and plenty of rust the whole length of them.. can't believe it passed the mot yesterday, what should i do to repair them? i reckon it's been like that for years. the cars 13. but looks pretty new otherwise

ok, thanks for all the input, i'll give it a go.

nice one joe, how do you get them out?

hi anyone know the size of the plastic scrivets that hold the sill trims on, i will replce them with new ones, and how to get them out mine just turn around but won't come out. car passed mot but the guy reckons the sills are corroded, but he can't see them properly for the trims, so it's an advisory, i am going to take the trims off and have a look, any advice. thanks, dek.

thanks andy, the jets are on the bonnet, and the drivers side is longer than the passengers, with a small spoiler attatched to it with star keys, they don't pull out very far to replace them and have a different plastic centre fixing than the bosch type. it's a struggle to release them.

hi which wiper blades does anyone reccomend for a 2003 s type, the bosch ones don't seem to fit?

hi if you have replaced the brake pads, make sure you that you have wound the pistons back fully even though the pads might have fitted in partially pushed back, i seem to have read this somewhere about jag calipers, also remember to unscrew the resovouir as well because you are forcing the fluid back under pressure.

hi, i removed the lower edge rubber door seals today, there was quite a lot of dirt/mud along the bottom of the doors which you can't get at without doing this, and i was glad to clean all that mess off, i would advise all of you to do this if you havn't already, the lower doors can rust through if you leave this important job, the rubber seals just pulls off a row of plastic ciips but take it easy you don't want to tear it, you then need to take out all the clips to replace the seals, i found the easiest way was to duck oil them and grip them tight with long nose pliers and a firm yank pulls them out, be careful not to disfigure them. i plied the oil into the door drains before refitting, my s type is 13 and i reckon this is the first time it's been done, and there was little signs of rust.

yes you could get a couple of lengths scaffold or one cut in half, they would give you a good low run up, but i would support the weight along the length with 3x2 2x2 and so on to stop them giving way, you can buy short trailor ramps, mine are only 5ft, if you live near me your are quite welcome to come round and use mine, i'm m33 area.

well i did say that didn't i, you should of bought used trailor ramps, i used timber at first but it's a bit dodgy, if it moves when you drive up and down. do it properly or you might regret it, sorry for the bad news. derek.

why's that then si'?

yes, your right after all paul, thinking about it, if the car is frozen up, you would probably pour some warm water over the mirrors anyway, as you would if your door was stuck solid with ice,

yea, you wouldn't want them working off the key then in freezing weather?