Raistlin

It integrates USB, iPod, RCA audio etc with the touchscreen control and car's audio system Gary. For example, I have my entire audio collection on my iPod which sits in my centre console. Ideal if like me you listen to operas or long audiobooks as you don't have to switch CDs or CD cartridges. As Joe mentioned, I also have the Premium Alpine sound system and between them they are perfectly satisfactory for me. Takes about an hour to fit.

To actually answer your question Jim, Yes, it can be done. If you have digital heating / climate control, it is a bit of a faff though as you need to build a loom up or, better still have access to a donor car. It is well worth doing, though, in my view, giving you a beautifully integrated and reliable infotainment suite, just as Jaguar intended. I personally find the sat nav, climate control, bluetooth, voice integration to be just fine. Adding the Audio Connectivity Module allows the use of USB, iPod etc. Being in the same geographical area as Denis and myself, if you chose to go ahead with the retro-fit, I'm sure we could help :) If you have rotary heating controls I understand it can be done but it isn't something I'd consider to be fair. Hope that provides a reasonably comprehensive first answer to your question. :)

My first thoughts be either powerfold or memory Gary. Can you identify, by pin humber and colour, the odd man out and I will see if I can find it in the wiring diagrams (if you don't have a copy yourself).

Light grey or black

Yes

Yes

It's the same basic setup as the X-Type and S-Type Steven. The loom should be in the boot and you will need the VACM and the appropriate microphone. You will need to splice in a further D2B (fibre optic) connector for the VACM and in addition will almost certainly need a session on the Jaguar Diagnostics. The Jag Den (Denis) on this forum will have all you need and if you're unsure and can get over Wolverhampton way, we can fit for you and set it up with the diagnostics.

OK Alan On re-checking the circuit diagrams, I don't believe memory seats matter. Here is a LINK to the method that I used. Please can I recommend that you use automotive splices or soldered joints, rather than just twist and tape. It is a very simple procedure involving only one standard type relay :)

Alan, Does your car have memory seats?

That's not the fluid that I used Dave but a quick bit of research suggests it is perfectly adequate. If your local non-franchised garage is doing the job please make sure that they have an accurate way of measuring the fluid temperature in the sump and they know the range.

Adam, send a PM to Denis (The Jag Den) on this forum. I believe he has precisely what you need.

Odd that an individual's vocabulary should include a word like ostentatious alongside a word like cripple. I was more concerned over whether I should get rid of the car though ;)

I have just joined the ranks of the "Blue Badge" holders and have gradually been getting over the guilty feeling of parking where I am perfectly entitled to park ;) Apparently however, I ought to be ashamed of myself, or so I was told be a woman of about 35 - 40 who saw me get out of The Princess outside the local convenience store in one of the disabled bays. Astonished I asked why and was told that, as a Blue Badge holder, driving the car I do was ostentatious in the extreme. Further enquiry revealed that, apparently, as a Blue Badge holder I am only entitled to drive the likes of a Nissan Micra, Ford Focus, Ford Ka etc. I then asked why that should be and received a somewhat philosophical " 'cos you are a cripple" I chose not to engage in further discussion.

Oggy, Yes, a non powerfold will work... other than the powerfold function of course. If you have a word with The Jag Den (Denis) on this forum I believe he has a suitable powerfold mirror which would be exactly what you wanted..

Thanks Joe :)

Already did that Joe. Still way out though.

I was driving at what I thought was spot on the speed limit of 40 MPH the other day and went through one of those "Your Speed Is" tracking areas and I was somewhat surprised to have my speed registered as 46 MPH. I managed to reduce the difference by re-setting the car's system so it knows I have 18" wheels but even so, I still seem to have a reasonably linear under-read of 3 MPH. Now I don't mind the speedo over-reading because that means my speed is likely to be below that recorded but the other way, as it is now, is causing me concern. Does anybody know a way to re-calibrate the speedo please?

What you call the panel.

When pulling the door card away from the door, start at the top, nearest the hinge. If you start from the bottom you are almost certain to rip the door card. Have you bought the correct replacement? For example, memory or non memory, powerfold or non powerfold?

Head unit (Touchscreen) is easy to remove Andrew. However, this retro-fit doesn't require your head unit to be removed. Easiest way for you to do the upgrade is to buy one of the later combined phone / Bluetooth modules part number:- 7W93-10D893-AB. Which are quite common on eBay. You will not need anything else. The D2B fibre optic and wiring will already be in place. If you decide to go ahead, I can talk you through the process if you want.

That's exactly what the OEM Jaguar Bluetooth system was designed for Andrew. It takes about 30 minutes to do.

Hello Andrew, welcome to the Jaguar Owners Club :) Yuo can easily upgrade your car to Jaguar's Bluetooth system which will link with your phone and link it into the car's infotainment system. Do you have a touchscreen?

John, the vacuum in the servo decays over time unless it is replenished by the engine and or vacuum pump. That is why the pedal feels hard. Once the vaccum takes effect the pedal will appear softer as it now has servo asistance. It may also seem to sink a little, but not to the floor of course. Clearly, without trying it myself I can't make an objective judgement but from what you've said, providing you are confident with the braking abilities of the car, there is unlikely to be anything wrong with the brakes / servo. If, on the other hand, the pedal goes hard after continued brake application then there is a vacuum fault, either with the servo or the vacuum pump. The servo on the S-Type is notorious for this. In fact, my own car has eaten two servos in 18 months.

In that case Brian, Your solution will be relatively simple / cheap. The problem almost certainly lies with the reversing switch at the gearbox short circuiting to earth. The rear light clusters on these cars are connected to 12volts and are switched on the negative side. In the case of the reversing lights, as they are both on, then it is clear that the fault lies beyond the clusters. There is a small possiblility that there might be a short between the light clusters and the switch at the transmission but it is much more likely that the reversing switch is the culprit.

John, Your problem is almost certainly a faulty brake pedal travel sensor. This is located in the brake servo. We have tried to replace the item but it proved beyond the capabilities of a moderately well equipped workshop and a replacement servo cured the problem. If you look at your servo you should see two electrical connectors on the front face, either side of the master cylinder mounting. The other electrical connector is also involved in the DSC function although its name escapes me at the moment. In later cars (2006 MY), a completely different servo was used and the DSC function was wholly contained within the electronics of the car, obviating the need for the servo mounted sensors.