Raistlin

Hi Steve, It might separate but I can't see how and don't want to force anything beyond its capacity to recover ;) Each wire is sealed at the back with a rubber seal which makes me think the contacys should probably be removeable from the back of the connector but I have no idea where the spring clip might be.

Nobody ever done this before?

Please can anybody tell me how to remove the electrical contacts from the S-Type headlight connector? I have included pictures of the offending article. Having eased the rubber seals from the back of the wires, the contacts rattle around quite loosely but I can't seem to find out how to release them Any help greatly appreciated. Thanks

Hi John, I didn't spot this thread for some reason. Can I suggest that the problem might lie in the threaded connecting rod from the servo to the brake pedal? This is held on with a plastic nut and there is also a small plastic shim as well. What sometimes happens is that the brake pedal is pushed down the servo rod effectively locking the brakes on. Ie. when you release the brake pedal, the servo rod stays in the brakes applied position. Removing the nut and shim and checking for wear or damage is simple enough, if you can get in there ;) Pulling the pedal up firmly will pull the rod cback through the pedal but it will, unfortunately, go back to the same position as soon as you press the brake pedal.

Nothing, I think, that would be of help Andy.

Hi all, I've got an S-Type engine bay fusebox from which I want to salvage the hardware, ie. the contacts for the fuses and relays. The fusebox is open on the bench but I just can't fathom out how to remove the bits I need. Any ideas please?

They are available on eBay quite frequently Peter. You would be very lucky to get the right colour of course. If I were you I'd be resigned to buying a can of aerosol paint and top-coat. If you buy from a dealer they will be in primer. Approximately £27 from a dealer if i recall correctly. Something you might want to consider is replacing the ridiculously feeble cruciforms with a pair of alloy ones. That will stop the covers departing with depressing regularity. Just a thought, if you talk to "The Jag Den" (Denis) I believe he may have some spares.

Hi all, I'm getting average file transfer speeds of 11MB/s over a Gigabit ethernet network between NAS and PC. I think this is much slower than it used to be. Any views please?

Solved Having acquired a vacuum brake bleeding tool, we set about the bleeding process from square one. ie. near-side rear. I have NEVER seen so much air in brake fluid. The stuff being drawn out under vacuum was so gassy it looked like milk. The same thing happened with the other three calipers but as a result, the car now has perfect brakes. Highly recommend the vacuum brake bleeding kits.

Worth investigating Russ.

Thanks chaps. We've tried three servos and three master cylinders. Same smptoms each time. Thanks for the diagnosis Brian.

Hopefully somebody can help with this please? After a successful servo and master cylinder transplant, the car concerned refuses to bleed properly. We can get a reasonably firm pedal but it is almost on the floor. The car is a post face-lift S-Type diesel with the servo that has the two extra electrical connections. Any ideas gratefully received please

I was looking for that last night Brian. It took me ages and I didn't find it. I hadn't made the synaptic link between a piece of interior trim and suspension

I'd be interestd in this Steve

Joe, Denis has just checked his and the part number is:- 1R8A-17BC43-AC. He has a couple of them so you can have a look if you like when you come over for the sat nav loom.

Thanks Brian Food for thought there.

Russ, I was in a somewhat similar situation, having accidentally broken the ash tray in Denis's pre facelift S-Type, and it took a lot of searching but eventually a replacement was found in a local breakers. A project then, but not impossible.

Thanks Brian, I'd appreciate that I particularly like the idea that it wouldn't distract but would be immediately available at the same time, being in the normal scan cycle. As for the other matter, it's forgotten.

Interesting idea Brian. I would certainly like to see it in more detail. I wonder would it be possible to make a short video of it in operation please?

Seems to change fine Joe. What you say about oil is oil is oil makes sense but apparently, ATF will destroy the transmission immediately. That is what intrigues me mate :)

It is an accepted fact that the later six-speed automatic transmission (ZF) in, for example, the diesel S-Type, requires a very specific ATF, Lifeguard being seen as the best and substitutes such as Mannol being seen by some as acceptable, but NEVER... NEVER, standard ATF. My point for discussion is this:- I know of a diesel S-Type (not mine) that had the transmission filled with standard ATF (Dexron 3 or equivalent) and has since been driven 10 000 miles without a problem. Over to you

Thanks Thomas

I don't know what you're on about Jon. There's at least another 100 000 miles in that air filter yet

PMed Steve

Leaper looks good Russ What Frank suggested was exactly what I'd heard of. I've just tried it on mine and it didn't work but my car is a later version so it might work on yours.