Raistlin

I can't see any problem with it being here Ian. Very kind of you to offer the spacesaver to forum members

Kenneth, this can sometimes be down to then windows not being calibrated. Usually as the result of the battery being disconnected and the re-connection procedure not being followed. I wrote a document bringing together what needs to be done following a battery re-connect. In it you will find the simple procedure for calibrating the winodws. Battery re-connection procedure. That will be the simplest and cheapest solution... if it works. Good luck

If it's a V8 Gary it will almost certainly have been high spec. So you need to familiarise yourself with what the options should do, I would think so that you can test them.

OK - Thanks Phil

To be fair Derek, the scrivets are designed to be pushed in rather than being screwed in. They are designed to be unscrewed though because that is, or should be, the simplest way to remove them.

Hi, Do your prices, quoted above, include delivery please?

Steve, I agree with Derek, the fixings underneath are just soft plastic and will pull out. Ideally you'd pull the screw part out first and that will reduce tension on the other part which should tehn pop out easily.

Hello Tony, Welcome to the Jaguar Owners Club The rear lights on the S-Type are switched return (negative) which makes then a real pain in the rear to wire. The reason you see live on every terminal is because of the above, ie. the return liine is where the circuit will be switched therefore, the bulbs are all supplied from the positive side simultaneously.. But there is a dead simple way round it The way I did it was to track the bus bars in the light cluster assembly. For example, switch on the side lights, see which bulb lights up and trace the bus-bar from the bulb contact back to the wiring connector. You can then see which wire is involved. If I haven't explained clearly, by all means ask further questions.

Clever

I'm sorry if my previous comment has taken this thread away from its original direction. I'm not being in any way provocative or judgmental. I don't have the re-map but I do have lots of other mods which are declared to my insurers and would be interested to see which, if any insurers were more leniently disposed to modifications than others with a view to saving money

How much extra do your insurers charge please Martyn?

Arthur, Be careful when considering the second hand transmissions on Fleabay et al. The transmissions are coded to the car during manufacture and if you just fit a second hand transmission it will not function. The coding is on the ECU within the transmission and is not accessible extrnally. There are certain people who can recode the transmisssion to match it with the car but it will cost a pretty penny.

You can get a cheap one from fleabay for £20ish. My kit cost me £70 and is somewhat more substantial than some :) PM me whenever you want to Steve.

Have a look at this video Steve:- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sz2yZNqGNqo This isn't precisely the tool I have but it explains the principle.

OK Steve, I have the hexert tool as well if you need to borrow it.

Wish I'd known Steve I could have given you enough to do the job :(

Cheer up a bit Derek. They're no where near as bad as mine were.

Derek, it's a bit of a shock isn't it? You'll see how I felt if you've read the link that Joe gave you above. A pair of outer sills will cost you roughly £150 from fleabay. That's where I got mine and they were perfectly adequate. The problems may start when the repairs start and more ugliness is uncovered. As Joe says, they are structural and are an integral part of your car's bodyshell strength, being of monocoque construction, the integrity of the whole system will be compromised. I know you are in Cheshire but if you'd be prepared to travel to Stafford I could put you in touch with the chap who did mine. If you are interested, PM me and I'll let you know his contact details... also the price he charged which, for a week's work, was excellent value.

Thanks Dave

My car has one Joe. 2006 MY 2.7l Diesel. 2004 MY of same car doesn't.

It has two rubber pipes connected to it at the bottom, leading god knows where. The MAP sensor is directly connected to the throttle body on the diesel engine Joe. What is curious is that this module isn't on every diesel engined S-Type.

As subject. There is a small module just behind the fusebox in the engine bay of a diesel S-Type (but not all diesel S-Types) It's the black rectangular thing with a wiring connector clearly visible on the right of it. On this picture it appears also to be just in front of the suspension turret. I wish I had the ability to draw circles on photos. Can anybody tell me what it is please? BTW. This is NOT my engine bay. Thank you

Thanks Joe

Got a link please Joe?

Not something I'd attempt Steve. I did my Rover 620Ti some years ago and it took about 10 days to find out why it wouldn't start.