Raistlin

Speed locking Peter. It can be turned off with the diagnostic software.

Denis is the one to talk to about the mechanical bits Russ, but i'm certainly happy to assist with the rest.

Hello Robert, and welcome to the Jaguar Owners Club The first thing I would do is to remove your sill covers and check for corrosion. Then check your boot / wheel well for water. Keep an eye on your battery as well. S-Types are notorious for throwing up spurious faults and error codes if the battery is not in tip-top condition.

The fob needs to be linked to the car using the IDS /SDD software David. In fact, I'm surprised the immobiliser allows the engine to start. Or did you swap your original? If you know somebody local with the diagnostics it might be worth asking. Only takes 10 minutes. If you were a bit closer I'd do it for you

Good idea thanks Steve Unfortunately not the correct sort of connectors though

Having had access to the back of the dash from an early S-Type, for reasons covered elsewhere, we found the connectors shown in the attached photos. These are on either side of the dash and we've no idea what they are for. We know that they are not for Navigation. Can anybody help please?

Denis and I were trawling through a breaker's yard when we found an early S-Type with Premium Sound. So we decided to have a go at retro-fitting it to Denis' car. In principle, it seemed a reasonably easy retro-fit but it didn't end up so. In hindsight, I should have consulted the wiring diagrams before we started buying the bits and pieces. Having retro-fitted several Premium Sound installations to later cars, I assumed that there would be only one amplifier, the bass sub-woofer amp. Ha, but I was wrong. There was another one called the "Centre FIll" amplifier. I didn't find this out until I got home and checked the wiring diagrams. We were also missing the "Centre Fill" speakers as well. Those are the two speakers mounted low down on the dash roughly at knee level and, to be fair, they claimed the lion's share of the grief for this retro-fit. We had the door speakers, head unit, rear parcel shelf sub-woofer unit with integral amp and we found that the wiring for the amp was in situ, tucked into a wiring loom. The door speakers use the same connectors and the plug for the Premium Sound head unit was found behind the centre console. It all plugged in and worked. The only problem at that stage was the fact that Denis' interior is black and the head unit we had was beige so it took some surgery on both head units to recover the black front panel and fit it to the Premium Sound head unit, replacing the DSP switch at the same time. Not difficult but a little bit fiddly getting it all back together with the cassette door lid correctly sprung. For information, the Premium Sound head unit has the "Premium Sound" text across the upper edge of the head unit and also has a "DSP" (digital signal processing) button. At this stage we were aware that there were no Centre Fill components but nonetheless, it all seemed to work, including the DSP. Eventually, after much searching and asking of questions we found out that the Centre Fill amp was located way up in the dash cavity just to the right of the steering wheel. Our concern now was the fitting of the Centre Fill speakers. Neither of us was confident of cutting the original dash to leave the oval holes and mounting points for the speakers. We were aware of a black Premium Sound car at a breaker's yard in Mansfield so decided to try replacing the whole dashboard rather than cutting out the speaker holes. A dashboard from an S-Type JUST fits in the back seat, albeit with a few worrying creaks and squeaks but no damage to my car in transporting the beast from Mansfield to Wolverhampton. Let me tell you, changing out the dashboard is not a minor undertaking and if it wasn't for Denis' dogged persistence, then I think we would have been defeated. Eventually though, he got the dashboard fitted despite my well-meaning "assistance" and, subjectively at least, I thought the Centre Fill speakers made a big difference, even seeming to emphasize the sub-woofer "bassiness". The DSP function certainly makes a great deal of difference to the ambiance of the sound as well. Was it worth the overall effort? I'm not at all sure I can give you an answer. It was a lot of work for poor old Denis, changing the dashboard over, and although it definitely sounds better to my ears, how much of that is placebo effect I don't know. However, in the final analysis I don't think it compares with the Premium Sound system fitted to the later vehicles and, even worse. It DOESN'T have the "Alpine" badges mounted in the door speaker grilles. In fact, I'm pretty sure that those badges are what makes the later version sound so much better Anyway, if you're contemplating it you will need:- Premium Sound enabled Head unit Rear parcel shelf including speakers grilles with sub-woofer box and integral amplifier All four door speakers Two centre fill speakers Centre fill amplifier. All the wiring and connectors are in situ so no additional wiring needed.

Hello Ashley. Welcome to the Jaguar Owners Club. We hope you find the forum useful and interesting This may not be of help but I had a squeak / creak from somewhere behind the dash on my S-Type. Eventually traced it to the driver's side windscreen air vent. A tiny piece of Blutak squeezed under the edge of the vent cured the problem. Just a thought.

There has been a spate of spammers just recently. I've nailed a couple. Echoing what Peter has said. If one does get past and you spot it, please do let a mod know and it can be dealt with

eBay item I know that several members of the forum are keen on obtaining an Audio Connectivity Module kit for S-Type, X-Type and XJ. Please beware. This is NOT what it purports to be. It is, in fact, only parts of the Jaguar Audio Connectivity Module and will NOT function properly, regardless of what the seller tells you. There are several items missing. The seller is clearly not selling what he says he is and anybody who wasn't aware of what an ACM should consist of will be taken in by it. I have reported it to eBay but I assume they will take their usual lackadaisical stance.

I agree that it is a good option Joe. As soon as I find some I'll be trying the retro-fit. Thanks for the info regarding the gears.

I am certainly interested in having them as a retro-fit Joe.

Intermittent Throttle Position Sensor fault David. The throttle doesn't control the engine mechanically but rather by picking off a voltage proportional to the throttle position which provides the ECU with the information it needs. From what I can recall, a battery reset might get rid of the warning light if the fault is no longer present. Otherwise I'd be having a look at the DTCs (Digital Trouble Codes) in the diagnostic software and tracing the wire between the throttle and ECU. If I've not recalled it properly I expect somebody will correct it shortly.

Hi Ian, As you say, lots of stuff in engineering test mode. I've used it recently to monitor how fast the Webasto heater gets my engine up to temp. For anybody who isn't aware of Engineering Test Mode, please see the two documents I've attached. Integrated Diagnostics Codes.docx Integrated Diagnostics.docx

Hi Joe, It fits high up on a tubular steel fitting above and to the right of the steering wheel behind the fascia. I found it on the net at the same time as Denis found it by ripping his car to bits.

Found it

Welcome to the Jaguar Owners Club Bob. If you can get a door module from a donor car, then you will need to either get the key fobs that went with the original car into which you place your transponders and the metal keys themselves or, as you surmise, use the diagnostics to delete the original fobs and link your own. The procedure is simple enough if you have access to the diagnositc software, or are close to a member who might be prepared to do the job for you. Whereabouts are you? Else, be prepared to pay for 30 minutes of dealer or indy time

That looks beautiful Mike

Please can somebody tell me exactly where the centre fill amplifier is for the early S-Type premium sound? I believe it is somewhere close to the steering column but can't see it. Joe provided me with a picture but I still can't see where it is. Any help gratefully received - thanks

Another tick in the box for allowing the engine to idle for a short time before switching off. The thought of two turbos spinning without forced oil pressure is frightening.

Thanks Mike - looking forward to seeing her

Well... after a long and winding road (the subject of another story), we got the motor and cables out. Nothing wrong with the motor but one of the cables had chafed through to the core and was therefore almost to stiff to operate.

Hello Mike, Welcome to the Jaguar Owners Club Which S-Type did you buy? Lots of friendly helpful people on this forum if you've any questions. Pictures are not compulsory... but we all like a picture of a nice Jaguar Another West Midlander as well. Would you care to narrow that down a bit please? I'm in Wolverhampton.

All the way along Gary. The plastic covers are very close fitting and you won't see much apart from if they are going at the seam. Once you've had the covers off you can assess the situation and take action. If they aren't bad, a little preventative treatment and say, annual inspection will keep them in good condition.

Welcome to the Jaguar Owners Club Gary I too have a diesel S-Type, 2006 vintage. It had a fair amount of goodies when I bought it but this car is very amenable to retro-fits for those items you may not have originally. The sills do need looking at, preferably removing the covers to see the full extent, if any, of corrosion. Sill corrosion is the killer on the S-Type. The brake servo is also a source of problems. Test driving the car, keep applying brakes and attempt to exhaust the vacuum. If the brake pedal goes hard then there is a faulty servo or vacuum pump. Most likely the servo as brake fluid can escape and ruin the vacuum chamber. Don't expect the performance of your Saab but for a diesel, it goes quite well nonetheless.