Raistlin

The alarm will almost certainly go off Steve. Just press the unlock button on the key fob. Other than that, you know what to do when you've fitted the new one.

You don't necessarily have to drive the car if you don't want to Steve, unless there are clear driving issues.

I'm looking forward to seeing your car Joe

Conventional wisdom has it that, for a D2B (optical) network to function properly in our cars, there is a fixed sequence of modules within the loop. Without wishing to be labelled as a heretic, I'd like to make an observation that, in my experience, it doesn't matter what sequence the modules are in, providing they follow the "loop" principle. I base this upon the fact that I have deliberately altered the position within the loop of modules to suit convenience and the lengths of D2B cables that I have had in my spares box, and regardless of position, everything always seems to work perfectly. I was wondering whether anybody else would agree with me, based upon empirical evidence?

Definitive answer to what Paul?

OK Simon, has to be a faulty brake pad then. Presumably you are going to take it up with the manufacturer?

This is something I've heard a lot about Ian but never seen it for comparison in an S-Type. Would it be possible for you to upload some pictures please? I'm very keen to see the difference

Thanks for that Steve. Like Peter, I have the earlier 2.7l version of the engine and I think it will be a good investment to have a thorough look based upon your recommendations.

Personally, I've not found that to be the case Paul, although there is a great deal of anecdotal evidence, although not empirical evidence to back you up I'll agree. I once had a highly modified Rover 620Ti which had a heck of a lot more than just lower springs which was written off and my insurer paid up more than I thought it was worth without the slightest argument. Since then, I've seen two other cars written off and both times the insurer and I came to an amicable agreement. I'm making the assumption here that you inform your insurers of any modifications you make? Insurance companies, like any other, are out to make a profit but crooks? From my experience I'd find that a bit harsh

At first glance this seems to be a faulty brake pad Simon but have you confirmed correct operation of your electronic handbrake? If you look underneath the car at the back while somebody else operates the handbrake you should clearly see the motor driving both calipers evenly. Just a thought and quite often the culprit when rear brake pads wear unevenly or quickly.

Steve, Can I recommend that you download a copy of this:- Battery reset.pdf

Another vote for the Mongoose and SDD / IDS software.

If you want to do anything on the headlight washers you'll need to remove the front bumper. It is just possible to get the the pump, which is attached to the screen washer bottle, by removing the wheel arch liner on the off-side. I'd apply 12 volts direct from the car's battery initially to see if the pump was at fault. The headlight washer pump is the one with the thick pipes to it. Before you do that though, it would be owrth checking out the fuse / relay by substituion.

I always use Tayna batteries Steve. They deliver next day, have a massive range and excellent prices Click here

Hello Dennis, welcome to the Jaguar Owners Club If you slide the CDC door fully open and look carefully along the right hand edge of the cartridge you will probably see one of the CD trays jammed half in and half out of the cassette. Whilst repeatedly pressing the release button, gently tap the CDC with the handle of a screwdriver at the point where the C D tray is jammed. This should produce just sufficient shock to release the jammed CD tray and allow it to retract fully into the cartridge, which will then eject.

Hmm... this little retro-fit seems to have struck a chord with quite a few forum members. If you are thinking of trying it and I can be of assistance please PM me

No Andy, phone only, as per the original system.

Retro-fitting Bluetooth phone on the later model S-Types is a bit of a nightmare. Conventional wisdom has it that the BTUM socket, under the arm-rest storage bin will have eight wires if Bluetooth enabled or five wires otherwise has shown itself to be less than accurate recently. I've found several cars that have eight wires but they go to the wrong terminals in the BUTM connector and when traced back seem to bear no correlation at all to the available wiring diagrams. It can be done, but involves either running extra wiring from the boot to the BTUM socket or completely re-wiring a BTUM socket into the phone wiring in the boot. However, there is a much easier way and it relies on the combined Bluetooth / phone module fitted to very few of the last ever S-Types and also later X-Type models. The photograph illustrates the module you need and also shows the microphone (internal one shown here but external and arguably better one is available) and the Bluetooth aerial, complete with Fakra Z type connector which fits the module's aerial connector perfectly and can be had from fleabay for roughly a fiver. Ball park prices on fleabay, for example, would suggest that the components required to do the retro-fit the old way would cost £200. The newer combined module plus the aerial can be had for under £100 so, half the cost and a much easier fit. In addition, the later module allows the touchscreen to display signal strength and phone service supplier as well as allowing up to six different phones to be paired, unlike the earlier setup which allows only one pairing at a time. installation of the module is on the back of the Kaiser panel in the boot, which is directly behind the DVD, CDC, AMP stack. The module is a little smaller than the original so can either be bolted in to place with one bolt, or you could drill the Kaiser panel to secure it with four bolts. In my view, a sufficiently tightened single bolt will do the job. Then all that is required is to plug in the connector which will already be in the loom, make a D2B (fibre optic loop) connection, and plug in the aerial. The aerial is not for the phone's connection to the outside world, it merely serves for the Bluetooth wireless link and as such, it will work perfectly well if located under the parcel shelf or just behind the rear seats. There is no requirement to get it into the arm-rest storage cavity. It can be completely concealed. Initial pairing is the same procedure as for the earlier setup, except that it seems to pair a lot more quickly, gives you a real-time signal strength, directly from the phone, and also tells you the phone service provider. Well, that's the basics. It took Steve Foxton and I something in the region of thirty minutes to install his Bluetooth setup, start to finish, today. Albeit that the microphone was already installed for Jaguar Voice, but even allowing time for the microphone to be fitted it should be doable in less than an hour I'd say. This has to be one of the simplest retro-fits yet, and it works brilliantly.

I just managed my first successful re-programming of The Princess using the Mongoose / SDD software. My VACM now controls all the kit it should control, including my retro-fitted CDC. There were one or two brown trouser moments when it threw up communication errors but all came out right in the end. Not a great achievement for those who have been using SDD for yonks I understand but for me? Well... dead chuffed. And a little more confidence to explore further.

If a good cleanup of the contacts doesn't work Andy, I'd suggest a check that both 12 volt supplies are present at the cluster. Check the second from left and second from right bus bars with a volt-meter with respect to ground. You should have 12 volts at both. One supply down can cause some weird and wonderful effects.

That's a phenomenal price Russ. If you go ahead, I'd certainly like to know your opinions.

If you are going to quote me Jim, please have the courtesy to do so accurately. To reiterate, for your benefit, what I actually wrote was:- When one looks at my comment in its entirety, the meaning is quite clear. The word almost is pivotal here, I believe.

Unlike Peter, I have only been a moderator here of just over a year, but in that time, like him, I've only ever noticed one member who clearly hasn't read the rules or thinks themselves above mere petty limitations, even when they are mildly pointed in the right direction. That being the case, I believe that, for the greatest majority of our users, the location and content of the forum rules is just about right. Of course, I also firmly believe that almost everybody in this club doesn't actually need the rules because they conduct themselves, naturally, with the decorum one might expect. I am involved in moderation and admin in several (unrelated) fora and they are usually like the proverbial bear garden compared to here, for which, for what it might be worth, I'd like to thank club members

Hi Gary, Nice to see you over here Welcome to the Jaguar Owners Club mate. Would be interesting to know what you were considering.

I don't use the term "car" since I've had the S-Type but prefer to use the full word rather than the diminutive, ie,Jaguar.