Raistlin

I don't think it bears any relationship to the front fog lights chaps. If the front electronics module is the same as mine, front fog lights could easily be retro-fitted as far as the wiring is concerned. Not sure if the lower bumper is capable of holding the fog lights though. The only reason I can think of regarding the two power supplies is perhaps so that in the event of one supply going down you would still have some rear lights, for example, in the case above, where the fog light appears to mimic the brake light. Just a surmise of course.

OK. S-Type. When you press the brake pedal, the driver's side brake light fails to illuminate, the driver's side fog light illuminates and the driver's side tail light glows dimly. In addition, there is a tail light bulb failure warning on the instrument panel. That somewhat complex little problem has vexed me for two days, so much so that towards the end, I was losing the ability to diagnose logically. I just couldn't nail it down. It really is true that sometimes you can't see the wood for the trees. Of course, it didn't help that the rear lights on the S-Type are all negative side switched, and the fact that we had just fitted the tow-bar electrics which worked perfectly. "It's an earth fault" I said to myself and indeed it does have some of the classic similarities but I just couldn't get a bead on what the problem was. Thanks to Joe Dot Com who offered invaluable advice and an inspired synaptic link from Denis, things began to make sense. Did you know that the rear light clusters are not only negative side switched but that the 12 volts to the cluster is actually two separate supplies? Thereby hangs the gist of the solution. What had happened is that one of the 12 volt supplies had gone down and as a result there were some weird and wonderful paths through the bus-bars within the light cluster. A sort of positive earth fault I suppose Anyway, after almost two full days of getting nowhere I now have another little foible regarding the S-Type stored away for future use. We also successfully diagnosed the front foglight problem on Denis's car as well Thanks go to Stacey as well for the endless cups of coffee and for listening so politely to the almost constant mutterings from yours truly.

Please check as to whether he meant the level plug Ian I don't want to be the cause of WW3 breaking out

Ian, just for info, the drain plug comes as part of the new sump, maybe he means the level plug? @Gordy, I used one of the kits from Germany which cost in the region of £125. Seems to be fine so far.

Ian, with the later six speed transmission, you need a very specific type of ATF and it is ridiculously expensive. In addition to the fluid, they should also change the sump pan and gasket as well as the filter. The transmission sump pan is made of plastic and has all the engineering strength of a bar of chocolate on a hot day so it is to be hoped that they replace it because they are prone to warping, especially when removed. Taking this into consideration, I'd be happy to pay £300 if I couldn't do the job myself. It is easily "doable" DIY if you can get the car off the ground, indeed, I did mine with the help of a friend just recently. The fluid and parts alone cost £100+

Steve, I'd very much like to see photos of the installation if you wouldn't mind please

Well... it isn't a five minute job for sure but it didn't strike me as a nightmare As Andy says, easiest with a donor car as you can see where all the bits go and can be sure you have everything.

Welcome to the Club Philip Nice looking car. Hope you have a good time with the Club. Everybody is friendly.

Hi all, This is still very much a going concern What is needed is a nucleus of people who have some expertise in various areas of "Jagularity" The first and subsequent meets would be on a small scale to see how the idea translates from the Rover 75 world to the Jaguar, Probably thinking of about half a dozen cars at my house for example.

I'll PM you shortly Steve

I am happy to do this work for you if you want Steve. It should take a few hours at most. You'd need to pop down to my house in Wolverhampton. Would that be any help to you?

Probem solved. It was all down to very poor instructions. Moved the module ground connection direct to the battery and it all works perfectly. There were a few other ambiguities and anomalies in the instructions as well but we worked those out yesterday. Result? Tow bar wiring on the S-Type is in fact dead easy

John, Being a diesel, you will have a Webasto heater. Sometimes the PCB in the heater can fail and cause a substantial current drain. If you still see the current drain, you might try pulling fuse 3 in the under-bonnet fuse box which is the Webasto fuse and see if it sorts things out :)

Thanks for the idea Frank

Thanks Joe, That's the same as the TEB7AJ that I have.

Thanks Andy. I've already done that. The TEB7AJ is designed to perform the required function. @Simon. No idea. Denis got it.

Cheers Joe :) I wouldn't have any ideas on my other (two bar) post would you?

Could be Joe. I get a smell of diesel as well so maybe it's clearing the combustion chamber as well.

If my Webasto has been used during a journey, when I switch off at the end of my journey it appears to start running up for a short time. Can anybody offer any advice please?

Wow, that was helpful Allan. Thank you. I've downloaded and saved that in my Jaguar collection. I hope you don't mind?

Well, I thought it was going to be easy. It was easy... it just didn't work. Can anybody clue me in to how to wire up a tow-bar fro an S-Type please (12N socket only). Denis and I took most of today, well into darkness, getting his tow-bar fitted. I wired it up using a 7 way bypass relay module for negative switching and it just failed to operate any trailer lights, although the wiring was double checked, the by-pass relays were heard to click when the appropriate light was switched on and the 12N socket wiring was also correct. The instructions failed to mention what to do with the white (ground) wire from the 12N socket but I tried it with the wire both connected to ground and also disconnected (floating). I used a TEB7AJ bypass module and a TEB1 to provide 12 volts to the TEB7AJ I can confirm that 12 volts was getting to the TEB7AJ. No wonder tow-bar fitting centres refuse to fit to the S-Type. Has anybody had a tow-bar fitted please or better still fitted one themselves and can point me in the right direction? Thank you.

Couldn't agree more Andrew

Jim, Peter and I discussed this before we jointly made a decision to remove part of your post. The point I am making is simply that the comments you made were (probably) so susceptible to more than one possible interpretation as to be seen in the same light by three of us at least. As you know, that is one of the big problems with a text based community. You just do not have the nuances of voice or body language to enhance the overall impression Perhaps you might consider discussing it with Peter or Frank or myself via PM so that this thread can get back on track please?

OK. Good news to impart Denis found an overhead console for not a lot on fleabay here in the UK (no ridiculous import fees) It's from an XJ, is the wrong colour and doesn't have Homelink. BUT, it does have the parking sensor disable / sun blind switch so, with a little judicious modification of the plastic sub-assembly and some re-work ofthe PCB, I'm going to end up with precisely the specification i want by dropping the modified components into my car's casing which is, of course, the correct colour It has taken a while but I got there in the end

Another positive for the CTEK. I wouldn't be without mine :) One of the best accessories I've ever bought