Raistlin

I suspect you've been "tangoed" by the S-Type's sensitiity to attery voltage. The car's electronics are sensitive to low voltage and are therefore protected. In days past, you would have noticed a flat battery by the reduction in starter motor speed. Now, the system cuts out without warning. When the voltage is getting close to shut-down, you get a plethora of electical gremlins. So, probably your new battery had something to do with the fault problem disappearing. Personally I use a CTEK trickle charger once a week to condition the battery and avoid low voltage problems

From what I can recall Tony, the earlier, CD based system was superceded by the Denso DVD based system in 2000 so there will have been no further disk updates from the one you already have.

Now, bearing in mind the wheels I have on The Princess, I have to say that looks superb Simon

What a clever little gadget Jim :) Thanks for sharing.

Definitely 12 volts Tony.

Denis is in contact with somebody in the US on the Facebook Jaguar page so I might be able to get the right version. Tested with Denis' overhead console today and it works fine so clearly, the circuit diagram doesn't tell the whole story.

Thanks Joe. In fact, the switch isn't on my overhead unit PCB. It is something of a mongrel as it was modified to include the Homelink buttons and transmitter. The PCB I got with the Homelink buttons on only had the one additional switch for the powerblind, which at the time I didn't have, rather than the switch for the parking sensors which I did have at that time. If I could find an appropriate overhead cover, I could re-solder a SMD switch into place. The problem is finding an overhead unit with the split switch for both powerblind and parking sensors. IF the switch works as it shows in the wiring then the simple push button spring loaded switch I fitted in the sunglasses recess and spliced into the wiring as per the diagram you have included above would be perfectly adequate against the day that I can find precisely the right overhead unit The switch is concealed maintaining the OEM look but still easily accessible as I never have sunglasses in the receptacle. The appropriate unit is available occasionally but only from the USA, where not only would you pay a basic price of approximately £70 to £90, but would also have to pay the extortionate fleabay "import charges". I priced it up recently and the cost went from £75 including standard shipping to £168 when factoring in fleabay's "import charges"

That would certainly be a method of operation Paul but according to the wiring diagram, the switch in the overhead console merely applies a 12 volt supply direct to the blind. That made me think that the control circuitry would be in the motor assembly, requiring a 12 volt momentary pulse and cycling either upwards or downwards as required. @ Garry: There is no discrete relay shown in the wiring diagram which is why I expected at least a click from the vicinity of the parcel shelf, ie. within the motor assembly itself, because the wiring from the overhead console is not of sufficient capacity to handle the motor current I'd have thought. There is a separate 12 volt supply to the motor as well, according to the diagram. I'm hoping to temporarily fit Denis' overhead console today (which has the switch) so should have a clearer picture later.

I've just gained an electric rear sunblind in The Princess but can't find a suitable overhead console with which to switch it. The wiring diagrams suggest a simple SPST switch with the up / down cycling being done within the motor assembly. I wired in just such a switch but the sunshade doesn't react to it. Not even a click. I know the sunshade is serviceable as I saw it raise and lower in the donor car, which leads me to my question. Does anybody know whether the wiring diagram is correct, or does the switching in the overhead console do more than the simple SPST switch would suggest? Thanks :)

I'd go for sensor failure first Martyn. You need to select reverse then listen very closely to each sensor in turn for a faint buzzig noise. No buzzing noise indicates failed sensor. Not sure about the lights. Somebody else will help though

In an update:- Jo-jags are also trading as "carsnorthwestltd" on fleabay. How do I know that? Well, I thought I recognised the offensive abusive reply I got to a perfectly reasonable message. A little bit of digging produced the same phone number and the same voice at the other end. Not really a people person, the chap behind jo-jags et. al.

OK with the Audio Connectivity Module Andy. Not what you'd call a cheap modification though. Having said that, I've seen them going for less than £150 on a couple of occasions recently.

I don't think the CD player in the S-Type is capable of playing MP3 files. Same CDC chassis in both X and S as far as I'm aware so if it can play MP3 what a bonus

Yes, that was something I was considering trying Joe. Thanks I'm probably being paranoid of course. Is the diesel thermostat easy / cheap to change (if required)?

Another vote for Nexen I've used them for years. Always had excellent roadholding and reasonably long life. Nice and quiet too.

It's just that the temperature gauge doesn't get up to the middle position even after a ten mile drive to work Joe. I used the ETM this morning however, and it showed coolant temperature was 81 degrees just before i switched off and the temperature gauge was reading just below the middle position so I have a clearer idea of the actual temperature now

The parcel shelf you have seen is suited to earlier premium sound systems Russ. I suspect it would be suitable for yours. The sub amp is actually built into the shelf between the speakers. I don't have any experience with the earlier models but I'd expect to fit the uprated door speakers as well to get the system sounding its best. I understand that the tweeters on the earlier system are discrete from the mid range units. Further, in the later models, the premium sound wiring is entirely separate to the standard system. Not sure about the earlier type. In summary, I would research what is required for your vehicle and gather all the required parts. I mean, heck, we even removed the tiny "Alpiine" badges from the donor car and fitted tehm to my door cards It would be an interesting retro-fit to follow :)

Next, Does anybody know, please, what the diesel engine's coolant temperature should be?

Thanks Joe - Perfect :) If I could see the info on the touchscreen so much the better :)

Does anybody know, please, if there is a way of displaying engine coolant temperature on the instrument message panel for diagnostic purposes?

Pleased you got it sorted Alan

Hmm.. Something I hadn't thought about. Until we can work out how to program the door module, you'll need the ignition key(s) from the donor car as well. Denis found that out yesterday when he went to lock his black S-Type and the blue S-Type locked... and vice versa. Oooops. I REALLY do need to become familiar with the Jaguar SDD software.

Another ridiculously easy retro-fit Thanks to Denis for letting me experiment with his cars today. So, to retro-fit powerfolding mirrors all you need are a pair of mirrors and the door control module located in the driver's door. The switchpack isn't required, being common to all cars. NO additional wiring is needed. How simple is that? The door control modules are common to all cars, whether powerfolding or not and will be programmed accordingly. I assume there is a section of the SDD which will achieve this programming but I don't yet know enough about it. Still, by the time you've setup SDD, you could have swapped the door control module over

Maybe an inch Andy

Yes, 10 speaker system Mid-range and tweeter in each door and two subs in the parcel shelf, and all integrated with the D2B network.