Raistlin

Sounds nice Trevor :D Can we see pictures and have your views once you've taken charge please?

If you do get the chance of an ACM from a breakers, make sure you get it all, consisting of the unit in the centre console, three audio cables that run from the centre console to the unit behind the head unit plus the main wiring and D2B link cables. :)

No, you can't play music from your phone via Bluetooth. ACM is a useful bit of kit if you can find one at a breaker's yard where they don't know what it is or its retail value. Fully integrates with the Jaguar system and plays from iPod, iPad, iPhone, USB or phono. As Andy said, they are ridiculously expensive retail but I know of one taken from a local breaker's yard where the chap concerned was told "If you can get it out you can have it"

Not a generic OBD tester, no. Has to be a Mongoose or equivalent.

SDD stands for Symptom Driven Diagnostics. It runs on a variety of hardware platforms, the cheapest being a cloned Mongoose which acts as an active interface between the car and a PC.

My wiring manuals don't seem to differentiate between LHD and RHD as far as the window wiring is concerned Brian. Have you had the door-card off yet to find the definitive connector numbers?

Assuming your car has 2002 spec wiring Brian, I'm hoping you have made a typo and where you have put DD4, you meant to put DT4. This being the case, it appears that with 12v applied to DT4-7, earthing DT4-3 or DT4-4, will raise and lower the window. If your wiring is 2001 specification, then it is still connector DT4. DT4-1 and DT4-2 requiring 12v and earth to raise and lower respectively, reversing 12v and earth as required. Hope that helps.

This was online for only a few seconds:- Who says Putin doesn't have a cuddly side?

Hi Steve, Welcome to JoC :) My car is a diesel but I invariably use my local Sainsburys for fuel and I've never had a problem in terms of quality.

Leather restoration is a pretty labour intensive job Lana so, personally, I think $175 is reasonable providing a good job is done. $500 though? I think not.

Thanks Andy - it was a typo on my part in the original post :)

I've disconnected the remote start option pro tem Stan, until I can solve the smoking problem.

Well, I thought that replacing the corrugated exhaust pipe to my auxiliary heater had solved the fumes problem but... not so. Roughly five minutes after starting from cold the car is enveloped with acrid white smoke / fumes which also smoke out the inside of the car unless the recirculation button is set. It's definitely to do with the aux heater. When I pull fuse 3 it doesn't happen. I'm not at all convinced that it has anything to do with adding a restriction in the fuel flow and was wondering whether anybody had any ideas please?

"D" is the later grade David and is recommended replacement where "B" grade was originally specified. http://www.oilspecifications.org/ford.php "A product meeting this specification is especially recommended for diesel engines where M2C913-B or M2C913-C oils were initially required."

Lou, The standard washer kit that you have fitted is what is required for HID when installed as an OEM option. In addition, you will need the ride height sensors which continuously monitor the car's pitch angle and feeds back to adjust the headlights accordingly. HID burners take an appreciable time to ignite and achieve full brightness and so are fitted as standard to the dipped beam positions. For example, if you wanted to flash your headlights, there is a probability that they wouldn't light up sufficiently in the time allowed by the momentary operation of the light switch. I would always check for datum level after changing headlight units. MOT fail otherwise. Hope this helps :)

There's another 12000 miles in that yet Stewart

All four lights Russ :)

Retro-fitting the Bluetooth setup is easy

Lana, switch the car's ignition on then search for a Bluetooth contact with your phone. If you see one called "Jaguar" then your car has Bluetooth.

Hi Lou, welcome to JoC :) I am not, by any means a boy racer saxo driver however, I do have an opinion on HID headlights. I had an aftermarket kit on a previous car and they were so hot that they distorted the headlight lens. I was impressed with the light output and penetration though so I bought a set of OEM HID headlights to do the job properly and safely. I also fitted the appropriate headlight auto leveling system and headlight wash for two reasons, firstly because I am an inveterate retro-fitter but also because car manufacturers are subject to the constraints of various regulatory controls, not least of which is the construction and use regulations. When providing a car with HID headlights they are obliged to use auto leveling and headlight wash. Clearly, if one retro-fits OEM equipment then MOT testers can't be expected to know that it was retro-fitted so they will insist that the auxiliary items are fitted as well. The HID kits may or may not burn too hot for our headlamps, I personally don't intend to fine out but I do intend to look into the feasibility of retro-fitting the OEM setup. Headlamp wash is perfectly feasible, having already done so on my car and I don't think the auto level sensor(s) will present any difficulties although I've yet to research this sufficiently to make that definitive. I assume the headlamp units themselves are a straight swap. Further to the aftermarket kits. Those that I have seen are very shoddily put together and bearing in mind the HT voltage required, I'd be less than happy, in my own car, to be taking such a risk. In addition, if the lens is not designed for HID then the is a very real risk that the beams will not be properly aligned. I'm sure we have all been subject to the blinding light of the boy racer saxo driver coming towards us I've also noticed that many of those with the aftermarket kits choose to use a very blue colour temperature which, in actual fact, reduces their effectiveness rather than enhancing it. It DOES get them noticed though, albeit by the forces of darkness In summary, I believe HID to be excellent at what they do and well worth specifying. I, personally would go the retro-fitting route though, and intend to do so in the near future for the reasons I've outlined :) I have to say though, that my present car has Osram nightbreaker bulbs and they seem perfectly competent to me so far.

Yes, there are, of course :) I must admit that I haven't found them to be much use, although I know people use them a lot. I prefer the Mongoose because it is designed specifically for our cars and gives a great deal more information I'd imagine.

I use a Mongoose. Clone items cost about £25 You need a PC to link it to of course.

I didn't change the lights Roger. To be fair, I find them perfectly adequate. I retro-fitted the headlamp wash because I was told "It can't be done" ..... Red rag to a bull, that is

Certainly Roger :) High pressure pump, (I'd get the whole washer bottle if you can because the HP Pump seal is next to impossible to obtain, plus it'll give you spare screen wash pump and level sensor.) High pressure pipework. (including supporting brackets). Two jets Two jet support brackets (if available) If not, the original items can be used with the addition of some foam insulation - double sided foam tape would be ideal and only a couple of square inches. Two jet covers - HAVE to match the bumper's contours so in your case the later version. Possibly you can get them second hand but I bought new items from local dealer and sprayed them using aerosol. The fuse and relay will already be in situ. I got all the bits I needed from fleabay for less than £50, including a complete washer bottle. Also, I recommend investing in a pair of the aluminium cruciforms which connect the covers to the jets. The original items are made of a plastic which has all the strength of wet tissue paper and as new covers cost £25 ish, something you don't want to lose when the plastic ones give up the ghost. Let me know if I can help further.

Andrew, my local mechanic only charged me £40 to do the job. I bought the fluid, sump, gasket and filter as a kit from fleabay.The job was relatively simple providing you have the ability to raise the car on the level. A proximity infra red sensor took care of checking the fluid temperature when finally checking level. There is a good explanatory how-to video on YouTube. The proximity of the hot exhaust pipe to the filler plug is something to be careful of :(