Raistlin

Have you a link please? I can't see it on their web-site.

I knew John Mortimer's immortal character, of course Peter. Now I know the link to you :)

Rumpole?

You would find it hard to credit the number of times I've sat in Court, with a defendant charged with motoring offences and they haven't got their paper counterpart with them Peter. Of course, what they SHOULD do, in my view, is to issue smart licences where the required information can be encoded in an integral chip. Ah well, maybe in 100 years or so ;)

As you all probably know, June 8th sees the end of the paper counterpart of our UK driving licenses. In itself, I believe that this is a good thing and long overdue but unfortunately, it carries a sting in the tail because they haven't thought it through to its logical conclusion :( If you want to hire a car, either here or elsewhere in the world, you are required to prove that you are authorised to drive such a vehicle and that you are not disqualified. The only way to do that, from now on, is to use this web-site:- https://www.gov.uk/view-driving-licence The malarky for setting up a secret code to share your details with somebody who needs to know seems almost bound to fall flat on its face. Have a look at the web-site and see what you think?

Hi Darren, welcome to here :) I've just recently acquired my first Jaguar, again, an S Type, and it's wonderful. I'm sure you'll fall for it :)

Where do you work Simon? We live a short distance from the Harrowby Arms ;)

Thanks Peter, I really appreciate your help :) Unfortunately, the seats are likely to be in a warehouse and not still in the car. Thanks again though.

Is that on the trim Peter or the one on the door frame?

Thanks Peter - many happy returns :) Problem is, I won't know the original registration of the donor car. Also, Vindecoderz tells me my car is an X Type with a 4.2l supercharged engine, so that hardly inspires confidence. Other than that, incorrect, information, it gives me nothing else about my car unless I pay for a "report"

".. first off i tried the old remove the arm with a 13mm socket, but i could not prise the arm off the spindle for some reason" Bit of a thread resurrection but hopefully useful information to add:- The wiper arm spindle is tapered, not unlike a tapered ball joint and I've found that a slight tap with a small hammer where the wiper arm fits over the spindle is usually enough to shock the wiper arm free.

Nobody knows then :(

Hi Simon, welcome to the club :) I'm in Fordhouses, where are you?

Drilled holes and grooves are there to let the gasses released from the brake pad material when hot, following heavy use, to escape and not cause friction problems between the pad and the disc. So, unless you are regularly getting your brakes that hot I'd think there would be no performance benefit. However, as previously mentioned, they DO look the part on our cars B)

I'm wondering if there is any identification of trim code on S type seats please? I'm considering buying a set of seats for my next retro-fit and I know my car's trim code but would like to check that the seats I have in mind are actually the same before I travel or arrange transport. Thank you.

I decided to go the ACM route so that everything would be integrated.

As I understand it, any powerflow dealer will be able to sort it out for you.

Counterintuitively Tom, you might be surprised to find that TP F & T can cost more then comprehensive.

It looks like it might be the sat nav connector Phil, or possibly the phone module. To be fair. I now have most of what can be fitted in the boot of the car but there are still loads of unidentified connectors.

No Phil. It is a small 2 or 3 terminal plug that you are looking for. If you look at the photo of the CDC that we discussed earlier you will see the idea of what you are looking for.

...SOLVED :D I gave it some thought... always a good idea. What had happened is that the Homelink system hadn't learned the remote properly although it appeared to at first glance. This I gleaned from the response of the Homelink LED to a button push. Thinking about the location of the Homelink module within the overhead console, I tried re-programming all the buttons by running the remote horizontally along the head-lining by nearside edge of the overhead console. All of the buttons were recognized within a few seconds and synchronizing to the rolling code also worked perfectly each time for all of the buttons. So now, Garage door opens and closes, garage lights switch on and off, and security lights switch on and off, individually, at the touch of a button from inside the car - and at a better range than the original garage remote :D B)

"But would so like my bluetooth to work properly though, it would make me feel more ... complete!" So much better for the Bluetooth to be integrated with the sat nav, audio, voice etc as well :)

Should be at least 18 mmHg.

The phone is smart... I, on the other hand, am not

My car is an S Type and it sees my iPhone 6. Dioes your phone see your car's Bluetooth signal?