Raistlin

From your description, I'd suspect the motor. Unfortunately, on these cars, the motor is an integral part of the regulator. Easy enough to do but time consuming as you have to remove the glass first and then the regulator. Personally, I'd disconnect the motor cable then apply 12 volts to the motor and see if my diagnosis is correct before going to the trouble of removing everything.

If the rest of the part number is the same then yes - no problem Phil. Have you got a link?

I ordered them from fleabay Ron. Here is the link:- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261681811992?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT I did consider making something up with Velcro but decided that you'd need three hands to successfully store the umbrella The clips look reasonably simple and efficient.

Basically Phil, if you don't have any other D2B devices in the boot, plug in the D2B connector and power cable to the CDC - job done, except to find out whether your car needs to be told it has a CDC. Other than that, it'll just be a case of bolting the rack into place and putting the trim back, but if you're unsure, just ask me... or head over this part of the world and I'll do it for you. BTW, I have three spare cartridges - I bought them before I installed the ACM.

Has anybody managed to install an umbrella holder in the boot lid please? I have a pair of clips en route, but the boot lid seems curved too much to be able to accept a full sized umbrella.

Sent last night by e-mail. I'll send again but check your spam folder please Phil.

OK Phil. En route later this evening

I have the official Jaguar installation instructions if you want Phil

Yes. The CDC has a separate power supply cable. It has been somewhere in the loom on each car I've seen so far Phil. It might be stashed behind the Kaiser panel and will probably be covered in foam.

Further Phil, The rack you need looks like this:-

The connector picture you uploaded confirms that you have D2B Phil, I'd say your CDC will be the same as mine:- 1X43-1BC830-AC http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/04-09-JAGUAR-X-TYPE-CD-MULTI-CHANGER-6-DISC-CD-PLAYER-1X43-18C830-AC-/381272175419?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item58c597b33b This link shows an example. If the CDC has a 12 pin connector on the back it is NOT D2B compatible. The link I've included is just the first one I found but if that's not to your taste then you need to be looking for a CDC from a late model S Type or X Type or X350. If they know what they are talking about they will know about D2B. Do a search on Fleabay for the part number Phil, specifically, look at the prices paid for CDCs sold recently. You can get one with an S Type rack for about £70 if you're prepared to wait. BTW, the X Type rack doesn't fit the S Type... I know, been there, done that, got the T-Shirt :( If you end up with one that doesn't have a cartridge, I believe I have one or two lying around here somewhere :)

Hi all - opinions are requested please regarding the following:- This website suggests that his Jaguar EPC has working VIN searching. http://www.autoepc4you.com/ I was lead to believe that this was not possible without an internet link to Jaguar. Is this worth buying, or is the seller telling porkies? I'd be grateful for any views and informed comment please.

Have you got a link to the item please Phil?

If possible, get the seller to include the four bolts which hold the rack to the floor of the car Phil.

"A member called raistlin has fitted phone, Bluetooth and voice along with the acm module and cdc with ease so it's definitely doable." You forgot the Homelink... don't forget the Homelink

small two or three pin socket. Best to wait until you get your CDC and you will see exactly what you're looking for.

You'll need the power supply cable Phil. It will be tucked into the loom in the boot.

You have nothing to do at the front of the car Phil. The D2B will already be connected to your head unit. You might have to go to a dealer or indie to get the car to recognise the CDC but the last four I've fitted for people didn't need that.

That's the D2B connector Phil. The white cap on it is a terminator. If you do the mod, don't lose it as if you need to remove a D2B module for any reason you'll need to re-establish the loop topography of the fibre optic network. In more techy terms, if you don't bung it back the whole thing won't work :) The small power connector will be in the loom somewhere as well. If you haven't got it already you will need the mounting rack. If you have sat nav or premium audio or bluetooth you'll probably have the rack. Have you got any other modules in the boot?

I'm ready for anything, having got the Homelink retro-fit to work Barry What was required to get the CDC operational? Also, what help do you need for the Bluetooth retro-fit? It's even simpler than the CDC I think :)

OK, now I know why the console was reluctant to separate . Some cowboy has already been at the console, removed the bulb holder which is fitted to the roof metalwork, and replaced it without the metal securing clips so, in effect, I was trying to separate the console from the bulb holder without the bulb holder providing any resistance. No wonder I nearly broke my fingers. So the only thing holding the console in place was, effectively, the headlining. Anyway, new bulb holder en route to local dealership overnight so should have my beloved fettled by tomorrow afternoon, including the Homelink retro-fit :)

I hope this one will reward you for your efforts Phil and offset the previous disappointments :) When I bought mine I drove from Wolverhampton to Liverpool on spec and the car was everything it had been described as in Autotrader :) Good luck.

I've not had my diesel for long but, driving 20 miles (round trip) to work each day, I haven't had any DPF problems as of yet. The diesel engine is no slouch in standard form and with the addition of a "Synergy" module goes very well. Certainly enough performance for my needs. When I was considering buying an S type I had a test drive in a 3.0 petrol and it drove like a dog to be honest. I know my experience isn't indicative of the engine having been in a friend's car with a sorted 3.0 which goes superbly. It is my personal view, and not a criticism, that the later 2.5 petrol engine is not a match for the weight and bulk of the S Type. I felt it lacked the verve of a good 3.0 or the diesel. of course, that's a subjective view :)

Following on from the fault diagnosis I needed for my interior light roof console, I thought that it might be a simple task to upgrade the roof console to include the garage door opener system, aslo known as Homelink and a colleage at work was quite happy for his car to be the guinea pig :) Long story short, the Homelink module is integral with a console which has the three buttons and is quite simply a case of swapping the original for the Homelink equipped item :) How easy is that? The snag is that there are VERY few UK based Homelink consoles avaialbe from breakers or fleabay. Unfortunately, those from the USA, whilst more common, are of no use as they use a different frequency in the USA. IN fact, the UK item I managed to get was the wrong colour but, luckily, the working parts are modular and easily transposed from one console shell to another so i was able to use the original console shell with the upgraded parts. So much nicer than having the original horrible blue brick remote clipped to the sun visor ;)

The H7 bulbs are apparently notorious, especially the el cheapo ones, for having their contacts moving slightly once they've suffered heat stress, getting hot and then cold Andy. As a result, they don't work when connected to the car but when the contacts are freed from stress ie. disconnected and removed from the car, they con-check perfectly with a test meter. So i thought my bulbs were OK but, in fact, they weren't. A couple of decent quality Hella bulbs fitted and the car has headlights again :)