DaveMech

I concur, there is no radio code on these. The electrical system involves modules that communicate digitally with each other via a fibre optic network (canbus). Each module has to be introduced to each other by a Jag technican with software before they will talk to each other (Very high society genteel - like a Jane Austin novel!), This tailored integrated unit will therefore only work on a similar Jag after this process so I guess they felt the risk of theft was minimal. I have disconnected the battery to change it and again to remove the dashboard to sort the air-con drain problem (and fit the Audio Connectivity kit at the same time) and it all just powered up afterwards with no problem.

It could be that the variable turbo vanes are coked up. It is fairly easy to check if this is the case by doing the following when the engine is cold ( burn risk - elf & safety!): Between the engine cover and the back centre of the bonnet opening is the electronic turbo actuator unit. There is a rod connecting this to the turbo body below. A circlip attaches this rod to the moving lever on the actuator. With a small flat bladed screwdriver ease, remove and recover the circlip from the actuator lever pin and keep it safe. (It's good idea to lay a cloth underneath the unit before doing this to catch it should it fall and avoid it disappearing for all eternity!!) slide the rod off the pin and sensitively push/pull the rod to feel if there is any resistance/stickyness and more firmly to overcome this and to establish that it can move all the way to the extremes of it's travel. It should move smoothly throughout and if it does then reconnect the arm and reinstate the circlip. If there is resistance then you could try what worked for me. See my previous post: Hope this is useful.

Hi John, As stated see if you can get some codes. I have a 2.2d manual and have experienced 2 separate EGR valve problems - each tended to cause stalling when moving off rather than any idling (but your autobox might mask this) but each prompted a code to be generated. The way you describe it sounds as though small adjustments to control the idle or to gently increase speed are involved. I had a problem which caused the glow plug light to flash and the engine to drop into (gutless) limp home mode, mainly when accelerating at low revs in a high gear. This was diagnosed by a Jag specialist as sticking turbo vanes. If you search for my few previous posts you will find a full explanation and solution. This may not be your problem but it would at least be worth disconnecting the turbo actuator arm and then move it back and forth to feel for any sticking/resistance that might make small adjustments difficult for the actuator motor. If there is, then try my solution. My car is still pulling smoothly like a train and is a delight! I run it on Shell Vpower+(expensive) to help prevent EGR or coking vane issues. You should at least avoid supermarket diesel (can be dirty) and/or run a fuel cleaner through regularly. From time to time I also keep it in a lower gear and let it run at 3500-4000rpm for a couple of miles to get the turbo and exhaust gases hot at a high flow which helps burn off/clear the soot. Diesel engines enjoy being thrashed but their high torque means that you seldom need to in normal driving, and if that driving is often short runs then the soot can build up! Hope this is useful, David

Carl, Is your Portfolio a special edition equipped with Celestial Black paint, Big Red Alcon Calipers with crescent Grooved Discs and 5 spoke 20" chrome effect wheels? If so then it is actually a 2008 Portfolio like mine which was first registered in Sept 2007 (57 plate) and being a 2008 X150 model (in Jaguar speak) the aerial is and always has been in the tailgate as described in 2 pdf. Mark was right first time - what a difference a year makes, lol. Oh, I hope i'm right about which Portfolio yours is , if not then I'm wrong!!

With the codes you are getting I suspect it isn't sticking turbo vanes but it would be worth carefully disconnecting the vane actuator arm and move the arm back and forth to check that it moves smoothly and freely. For details see my earlier post - 'Sticking Turbo Vanes' in the Guides and Reviews section of this forum. Please disregard if you have already checked this out. Best wishes, David

Sorry to contradict, but all X150 (aluminium) models, even the exclusive, track focused and last hurrah XKR-S GT, were equipped with what I believe is the broadly the same 6 speed box. The presence of the puck gear selector is the most obvious modification but there were certainly changes to control software and presumably gearbox internals to suit the characteristics of the 5 litre engine. Oh, as far as I'm aware the 5 litre was/is a new engine not a 'bored-out' 4.2 (which itself is already a 'bored-out' 4.0 litre), the most significant change being direct injection into the cylinders for improved performance and economy. I have an 4.2 XKR 2008 Portfolio, am a member of the XKEC and a bit of an XK nut! Any XK is a great car, just smiles and no regrets Cheers, David

Hi Philip, You've experienced engine Limp Home Mode which will often reset like a PC - switch off engine then switch back on. As it came on when you accelerated i would suggest you check out my post below. It would be worth using the fuel treatment anyway.

Hi Colm, Just spotted this thread. Hope you have got to the bottom of it, if not have you seen my post entitled ' 2.2D Limp Mode when accelerating - Coked Turbo Vanes' ? I'd get your guy to disconnect the turbo actuator and move the linkage through its full travel, feeling for any sticking or snagging. If it doesn't move smoothly then try what I did which not only solved the problem but also brought back a smoother and sharper response from the engine. Let me know the situation.

When driving my 2006 X-Type 2.2d it started to drop into limp mode when accelerating at low rpm. This could be reset by turning the engine off waiting briefly and then restarting. This problem became more and more frequent. After removing and cleaning the EGR and inlet manifold (filthy Job),which were not at all clogged, the problem still persisted so I booked it in for a diagnosis. They diagnosed that the moving vanes that control the effect of exhaust gases within the turbo and hence the speed and impact of the turbo were sticking, probably due to becoming coked up. They had tried to free the movement as a temporary measure but a replacement turbo was the official solution. I took the car away and realising that the vane actuator arm was easily accessible just behind the engine cover, i decided to try to free the vane movement by unclipping the actuator arm (one circlip) from the electonic control unit and move the arm back and forth repeatedly and forceably through any claggy resistance, This seemed to reduce the number of incidents for the moment so I checked out what fuel additives there might be for cleaning turbo vanes. I found that Wynns produce a cleaner specifically aimed at the vanes and added that to the fuel. I then drove the car in lower gears so that the car was revving over 2k rpm with occasional sessions of sustained 3.5k rpm to get the turbo and exhaust good and hot with lots of gas flow. This was interspersed (after things had cooled down!) with a further couple of sessions of actuator arm back-and-forth activity. After about 250 miles the problem had gone away totally but for good measure I have added another treatment to my next tankful and will still do some lower gear and high rev running from time to time. So for under £40 and a bit of screwdriver and arm activity, I seem to have avoided a bill for £1-2K! to replace an otherwise quiet and undamaged turbo. In hindsight I could have also saved the £200 diagnosis cost by first disconnecting the actuator arm and manually checking out how freely it (and hence the vanes) moved through its full range of movement! Ahh the wonder of hindsight! Hope this is useful to someone.