Russ68

Hi Nicolas, Someone can confirm definitely, but I don't think a 2001 headlight will be suitable for 2007. There was a major facelift in 2004 that included completely new headlights. Good luck, Russ 😉

You might be better off with an earlier 4.0 engine from an XK8, like this one, which seems very cheap at £675 or offers: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284331537207?hash=item42337af337:g:MvYAAOSwXs5gxiqH An absolute ton of work as Jon suggests though. Hope you're handy with the spanners and have good facilities as this is not likely to be something viable to pay someone to do for you 😉

I attach a current picture, the last 2 years, or my attempts at removal haven't been kind! Unfortunately, there is just not enough of the nut head left for any of those extractors. So I think I'm back to trying to chain drill through the side and cold chisel it off. Unless it's an option to drop the hub and wheel off and then access the stud from the back? 🤔

Brilliant! Thanks Trevor! This is just what I need! Except a 3/8 drive will have no chance with the remains of the seized nut. But I see a 1/2 drive version is listed that may be up to the job. Various sizes, not a set, so I'll measure up 1st and order that in 👍

Hi Jamie, Thanks for that, a blast from the past but a welcome one! So this is the FUBAR nut: We can see the nut has sheared off the end of the stud showing in the centre. If I use the holesaw (which I am familiar with due to DIY), wouldn't the centre drill just blunt itself on the stud and the saw part just round off the nut? The outer chrome is already missing. I've been considering either chaindrilling into one side of the nut to the point I can drive a cold chisel into it and prise it off. I bought a pack of 6mm drill bits for that purpose. I also wondered about arc welding a long bar to the nut, but looking at this pic I don't see how I could do this without welding to the stud. I'm about to recommission the car so if there is a better method, I'd be happy to hear it! Thanks, Russ 😁

Apparently if the car is over 10 years old, it doesn't legally have to have an MPH speedo in the UK. I'd imagine it would be desirable though, or you'd constantly be having to do conversion in your head! I have a Japanese import MGF, that had been converted by the importer, but I eventually dropped in a new instrument binnacle. This was reasonably straightforward, but it's a simpler car than the Jag, so I can't comment on the specifics of doing the same to an S-Type 😉

Hi Knut, Generally I don't have a problem with eBay parts. But being you are likely to have to ship internationally, and that if you fit the part and there is an issue, it would be more of a problem than if the seller was in the next town. I'd be a bit careful and go for a new part or one that had at least been tested with a warranty. I've just bought myself a complete running S-Type as a donor car, so luckily, I do not have these issues 😁 Good luck!

I have edited the page myself, bringing it more in line with what we think of the S-Type I am sure 😉

Hi fellow S-Type owners, I dipped into Wikipedia earlier to see if I could confirm some S-Type production figures I was interested in, namely the number of 5 speed manual 3.0 petrols S-Types built, if anyone has the info or can point me towards it? When I was somewhat shocked to find that under the 'Reception' section of the S-Type page, it was still carrying the ill informed opinions of the ex Top Gear crew who give the model less than glowing reviews! Here's a link to the page, scroll down a bit to see 'Reception' After all these years is this really the most relevant info that a casual researcher will find out about our cars? I'm not sure how one logs in and edits a page, but I hope that one of us knows how and can get it done! Or can presume upon the services of a technically savvy friend or relative that can do it? Presumably, we're all fond of the cars and like the styling, refinement and power of the cars; grace space pace etc. I think they have aged well and they are getting that bit rarer a sight on our roads. To see them being so savaged by these ~20 year old reviews by those self important blowhards is mildly irritating. In other news, I've just bought a 2nd S-Type, another rare 5 speed manual, as my Sport has been SORNED for a short while and I thought having a donor car will be invaluable as the years go on. The new SE has a short MOT and once I have the tax sorted, I look forward to using her for a few months and can hardly wait to get back behind the wheel! All the best, Russ 😉

Hmmmm, bad luck Tony, this one has been fighting you! I'd have said headgasket, but you've checked this, no emulsion under the valve covers and oil filler etc? Otherwise, how's your radiator and water pump? Plus the drive belt? I also have a 2001 3.0, my only overheating was caused by a leaky expansion tank. But I'm can see I'll need a new radiator at some point. Good luck!

There's a good chance it's a mechanical rather than electric issue. I've had to change the window regulators on mine, although at least one was just the cable coming off, it should become apparent with the door card removed. Luckily the clips on the Jag door cards are of better quality than some lesser marques, so you can hopefully pop them off and on without breaking them if you're careful 😉

I found this online AG, the fix 12RM suggests with the silicone sounds like a good bet 😉 https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s-type-s-type-r-supercharged-v8-x200-15/how-do-i-stop-water-leaking-trunk-7798/

Well done Pete 👍 Not quite sure when I'm going to have the chance to get into mine but can't wait to put here back on the road 😁

Hi John, a likely suspect is the header tank itself, they crack. Luckily they are widely available new and 2nd hand and not too hard to change. I went for a new one and it fixed the issue to my great relief 😉

Hi Pete, Have you sorted it? I have some door work to do myself on my 2001. Pretty sure the handle has x2 torx, surprised it's not clear after everything is stripped back. Good luck 😉

Are you sure the coil packs and plugs under the inlet manifold were done? Not sure these breaking down would lead to the cutting out, but when I got mine, it had the jerky acceleration you mention until I got in there and swapped these out. Many leave this bank of cylinders as it's a faff to get to 😉

I did the briefest Google and threw up a number of options for fuel pump at ~£75, so not too bad. But clearly you'll need to dig a bit deeper to ensure these are compatible with your car. I've found Berkshire Jag Spares pretty knowledgeable in the past, so worth a call if they're still open during lockdown. Good luck! Russ 😉

Chain 👍

Hi Michael, welcome to the forum, sills look good, underside looks scabby but representative. I had mine cleaned off and sealed, to neaten it up and offer some protection. A filthy job a didn't fancy myself so paid ~£200 for. Well worth it in my book, peace of mind etc 😉

Completely agree Peter, a racket indeed! Surprised more people don't just change the rubbers 😉

Hi Peter, I'm not sure she mentioned it was the washers at fault, but I'm sure you're right, perhaps I missed that. To me it seems a bit of a racket to replace the entire wiper arm when it's the rubber that's the wearing part. It's easy to open one end, remove the old rubber and replace with new, especially on a car like the S-Type, where removal and replacement of the wiper arm could be easier 😉

But I'm suggesting she keeps her old wipers and hence washers, and just changes the rubber blade. Which can be bought from eBay and elsewhere. Of course if it's the washer that's the broken bit, then she will need to replace the wiper arm. But if not and the wiper has failed on performance, inserting a new rubber would seem a good fix 😉

How about just changing the rubbers? Wouldn't this save a lot of hassle? I've been doing this for years and it seems to work well along with being cheaper and less wasteful 😉

Since I ordered my 1st service kit from Berkshire Jag Spares, I get everything from them. I generally order by phone to go through the options and it's always arrived quick and right. They may want VIN, but more likely explain year and model and they'll know the rest 😉

Hey Saul, I did mine awhile back and can't remember any issues. If anything the Jag was easier than some as bigger and better quality components. There was a countersunk crosshead retaining screw on the discs which took some persuading, I may have used and impact driver on that. I recall having to buy a brake piston wind back tool to get the calipers wound back in, but pretty sure this was for the rears, not fronts. Good luck, you should be fine 😉