red-z

It's actually illegal here in Oz to drive with fog lights on unless the weather is bad enough to warrant them..

Almost any car can be reliable if it has been well maintained, and especially if low mileage. Likewise any car if abused and neglected will eventually break down. The S-Type is no better or worse than other modern cars on this score. Parts can be a tad more expensive that some, but you don't normally buy a Jag for its economy, but for its class. If you like the S-Type (and I do, very much) then get one, but get a good one. You'll love it. "You remember the quality long after you've forgotten the price"

Just make sure that no part of the metal on the blade or wiper arm is touching the glass at any point. I know you say you've replaced the blades but did you replace the whole blade or just the rubber? If just the rubber, then maybe the blade is worn and is allowing the rubber to lean too much or the metal to rub on the glass. If all this is OK then try cleaning the rubber thoroughly as other have suggested or if that still doesn't stop the squeak try a different wiper compound such as urethane. I assume you've checked that the squeak is not coming from the motor or wiper mechanism?

I guess the moral of this is to check the cables regularly and make sure they and the catches are well lubricated, and to replace the cables if there is any sign of wear. One trick we used to use on motor bikes was to fit a second spare cable alongside the existing one, but in this case it would have to be connected as well, at least at the front end. I haven't looked at mine so I don't know if this is possible but it might be worth a try.

Another possible entry point, other than the seals and the lights is a small rubber grommet leading to the rear bumper, down near your right knee as you lean into the boot. Make sure this is in place and in good condition.

The fuse blowing indicates a possible short somewhere. I'd start by looking at the r/h indicator and reversing light wires and see if they are damaged anywhere.

OK Jag, your turn

Last year I bought a 2000 S-type with 72,000 kms (45,000 miles) on the clock sight unseen from Perth on the far side of Australia and had it shipped here. It's proven to be an excellent buy. In fairness it wasn't really sight unseen as I had a friend over there check it out for me but I hadn't seen it till it arrived in my driveway. So yes there are good low mileage cars available and I hope yours proves to be a good one for you.

Sorry, It's a big NO! from me.

Make sure your not sitting on the fob, or pressing it accidentally, even inside the house, if its in range a long press will unlock doors and open all the windows. I've done that a couple of times.

Regards the Battery Reset procedure. My 2000 S-type opens the driver's window with one-touch but doesn't close that way. So I tried the procedure as listed but it didn't make any difference. Does the one-touch window-close only work on post upgrade (2002) models?

So if water is not the cause, and the motor does not turn over, then it may be a fault in the starter motor or the solenoid. Funny that it should only happen after long trips, maybe extra heat is the issue.

So changing the existing bulbs to LED's didn't cause any problems with the Jag's other electrical systems? I was considering changing the parkers (sidelights) to LED's but read somewhere that changes to power loading can cause issues. Not true?

Obviously water got into the electrics somewhere, most probably under the bonnet rather than in the boot. If it happens again you could try blowing the electrics dry with compressed air but the danger is you'll blow water into even further places. If it continues to be a problem try covering the fuse boxes and other electrics under the bonnet with plastic sheeting before washing the car, BUT don't let the plastic touch any hot places, and don't forget to remove it all afterwards. Personally I don't use Car wash stations, either the jetwash or the brush type as either can damage paintwork. A friend once had a rear window wiper arm pulled off by a car wash brush and it proceeded to slash around and around all across the roof before he could stop it and the car was almost brand new! Best to use a soft sponge and warm soapy water and wash by hand.

If you unlock the car with the key fob a quick touch of the button will just unlock the doors, but if you hold the button for a bit longer then all the windows and sunroof will open. This is most likely what you did when you found the car with windows and sunroof open. They had probably only just opened, not as you feared that they had been open for a long time.

I got a used Lock/Actuator from a wrecker and fitted it myself. Total cost including courier to bring the part to me $120 versus quoted total cost if Jag dealer did the job of $800+ (admittedly this was for a new part but it wouldn't work any better then the used one). It's not an easy job because there's not much room in the door but I managed it ok. The hardest parts are:- a) removing the plastic trim around the inner door handle. I found the best way was to loosen the door trim all round and then pull it off the handle trim by tipping the door trim forward slightly. Once the door trim is off it's not too bad removing the handle trim. b) Unclipping the lower end of the outer handle rod ( a green plastic thing) I made up a tool out of flat metal strip with a "V" cut in the end about 10mm wide and deep, bent at 90 deg about 1.5 cm from the end and using that to push in the two sprung retainers top and bottom of the clip. c) unclipping the plastic support which is hung just below the outer door handle on two double-ended rubber grommetty things. I removed the top end first and then once the torx screws holding the lock in place are undone you can turn the lock a bit to get at the bottom end of this plastic support. I used a tapered pin punch to unclip this but there's probably a better way. Then unclip the cable from the inner handle, unclip the electrical wiring from the actuator - the holding clip is underneath. Once all these bits are undone you can turn the lock/actuator around and remove it. Replacement is the reverse. Again I found the hardest part was the inner handle trim.

I've heard that another source of leaking in the boot can be where a wire goes out towards the rear bumper on the RH side near the battery. There should be a grommet there but sometimes it's come out or is missing. Worth a check, although it sounds like your leak is too big for that.

Hi Joe, Does this apply to the earlier model S-Type or only to the later ones with the touch screen? i.e. can I still get the diagnostics on my 2000 model on the dash display?

I agree with Andy, using a pump may be an easy method but you run the risk of leaving any sludge in the bottom of the sump, not that draining the oil via the sump plug guarantees this but at least you have a better chance of removing at least some of it.. I like to run the engine for about a minute before pulling the sump plug, not enough to heat the oil but enough to stir up any sludge/ metallic particles so that it can run out with the old oil.

I have the exact same problem and I think it's the front passenger door lock actuator on the blink. Shouldn't be too hard to fit a new one although I haven't yet done it! but they are not cheap ($375 here in Australia - about ₤180) The hard part is getting the inner door handle trim off and back on, which I have done a couple of times, but it's not easy. Does anyone have the secret to doing this? and any other tips for replacing the actuator?

Hi, did you ever get a solution to this problem? I have the same job to do myself, only on the front passenger door. If there are tips or tricks I would appreciate knowing before I attempt the job.

On a blue car the orange looks good but add the chrome too.

On a silver car - Black. (but the red ones go faster!)

Wish I could share some weather with you, it's a hot 38C here today and going to be hotter tomorrow.

My 2000 S-type has the Global Open but doesn't seem to have a Global Close. Is this only on the post 2002 models? Also I can't see any way of removing the cup-holders to access a cubby box, I guess this is also only on later models? The keyhole for the boot lid is just to the right of centre on mine, directly below the "U" in Jaguar but I always use either the button on the dash or the one on the remote anyway.