Claws

Chaps if you look at the website JOE-DOT-COM posted, you will find two documents that relate to water ingress, very informative Steve

Just an update Chaps Picked her up yesterday, and after a bit of faffing around town, she got a stint on the motorway, temp gauge slap bang in the middle as normal, no warning lights on dash, drove absolutely fine it looks like I got her to the hard shoulder before any damage was done I have my Little Girlie back! I had an Oil and filter change while she was there for peace of mind. £103.00 all in! (I have an add on with my AA cover that gets certain parts covered up to the value of £500.00 contribution, the part that failed thankfully was covered) Steve

Hi Andy Are you saying it failed it's previous MOT, or its current MOT to renew prior to sale? If previous, then the necessary repairs would have been done surely? If it's failed to pass this time, then the choice is yours! I'm surprised for a car that's not that old to have rust to that degree, if you're deposit is refundable, ask the dealer what are they going to do about it? If you're happy with their response then the decision to do the deal or not is yours of course . anyway you could get the work done to ensure it passes the MOT, perhaps allowing you a bit of a deal between yourself and seller, get a much better deal, if you take her away and get the work done yourself, or probably the wisest and simplest thing get your money back, and find another car. Regards Steve

Glad its been of some help Please keep us informed Regards Steve

Hi Leon She is a fine looking lady! very nice Have a look at this link, you may find it of some help Regards Steve

A different car of course, but I had an Omega, when I bought her the boot opened fully, after someone drove into the back of me, very minor damage by the way, it never opened fully just a few inches. Probably just needed a re-adjustment (didn't bother because it didn't bother me) perhaps that's all that's needed? Steve

A different car of course, but I had an Omega, when I bought her the boot opened fully, after someone drove into the back of me, very minor damage by the way, it never opened fully just a few inches. Probably just needed a re-adjustment (didn't bother because it didn't bother me) perhaps that's all that's needed? Steve

Hi John a short while ago JOE-DOT-COM supplied a link to a very useful website, there are a couple of documents that may help in regard to water ingress, I have a similar issue with water in the spare wheel well Regards Steve

Did you try using the autobox in a manual fashion? Anyhow Keep us informed David

Hi David I just want to repeat what I said before I know 'diddly' about electrics, so hopefully the guys will jump in if this information is completely wrong! The first two lines are from Jaguars own literature, but I downloaded info for an S type 2003, but also applies to the following V8 N/A and V8 SC 2003 Model Year I'm not an expert, but to me they don't seem serious? the strange one is line 4 If DTC P1111 is flagged after DTCs have been cleared, all engine management OBD diagnostic monitor drive cycles HAVE BEEN COMPLETED P1111 EMS JAG System (OBD) checks complete since last memory clear System Readiness Test P1111 System Pass P1111 Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor Circuit Intermittent High Voltage.... which seems odd when the others seem to be of no concern, and are the same code! Anyway, a bit more for you From 'Bluejag.co.uk' this info is about an x type code, but I presume a similar code would / could apply across the jaguar range? it would also explain why your dashboard gave no warning light JAGUAR FAULT Code P1111 OBD SYSTEM READINESS – ENGINE MANAGEMENT Jaguar Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1111 is flagged after all engine management OBD diagnostic monitor drive cycles HAVE BEEN COMPLETED Jaguar Fault code P1111 will NOT illuminate the Jaguar Check Engine Light (MIL light), however it will be indicated on a DTC Reader. If you reset your Engine management fault codes using a DTC Reader you will innitiate the engine drive cycle tests again and the system will flag DTC P1000 Every time you start the car and go through a complete drive cycle (10,000 revolutions of the motor and the motor up to temp), it is logged. after 5 complete drive cycles, the next starting of the engine, unless already reset the engine management light (MIL) will go out. If a further problem is sensed by the computer, the MIL will illuminate and the process will repeat. ref DTC P1000 If DTC P1000 is flagged after DTCs have been cleared, all engine management OBD diagnostic monitor drive cycles HAVE NOT BEEN COMPLETED Some more info on what a drive cycle is (again from Bluejag.co.uk) The Engine Management and Transmission Control systems are continuously checked during vehicle operation by the Engine Control Module (ECM) and Transmission Control Module (TCM) on-board diagnostic (OBD) facilities. Powertrain OBD incorporates six diagnostic monitors. Each monitor has an associated group of DTCs. The diagnostic monitors will complete the diagnostic test(s) if a specified service “drive cycle” is carried out. The six diagnostic monitors are as follows: Heated Oxygen Sensors Monitor Adaptive Fuel Monitor Misfire Monitor Catalyst Efficiency Monitor Evaporative System Monitor Engine Management / Transmission DIAGNOSTIC MONITORS DRIVE CYCLES To ensure that an OBD Monitor drive cycle is completed (P1111 indication) and that all or specific components have been checked by completing a specified drive cycle. Click on the OBD area above for details, of the specified "drive cycle". here is the link to their website if that's easier http://www.bluejag.co.uk/OBD-Diagnostic-Monitor.php

I'll have a look later to see what I can find on the code, bit concerning that you had no dashboard lights?

Steve get her picked up!! That doesn't sound safe, you have been lucky twice, don't push it. Your local garage may be able to arrange collection, AA recently arranged mine to be collected £60 to a halfords about 4 miles from me Regards Steve

Wasn't to sure about the date range, ref the nickasil problem, when you say 'sluggish' does the engine rev okay, but not pull away as you would expect? I'm trying to isolate were the problem may be, Is it engine / gearbox / clutch, that type of thing, I have to say I don't know what a Maf sensor is, so can't help with that, are you getting any dashboard warning lights? Probably not as you would have mentioned. I am presuming she is auto, have you tried using the gears manually? To see if it improves on the sluggish-ness? Could be perhaps be a gear selector selecting to high? If that makes sense My weakness is i know diddly about electrics, so always blame hard mechanical components for problems, so of course I maybe completely wide of the mark Anyhow good luck David, and of course keep us informed Best regards Steve

Hi David when she gets going is the engine responsive? do you know if your car has the nikasil or steel cylinder linings? not wishing to be the harbinger of doom and gloom (you haven't had much luck lately) but I would consider pressure testing your cylinders if only to discount that as a possible problem

Dan is there any sign of water on the dipstick or oil filler cap? Any obvious drips on the floor under the car? Any signs of leakage on the engine itself? I very recently posted about the same concern 'Double Whammy' then unfortunately posted another 'NOT good news!' as an update, if you know you have a dodgy hose, replace it before it's to late. Look at my post NOT good news, to see what may happen good luck sorting out your problem Regards Steve

Hi Joe the hose from the top of the header tank connects to another piece under the air intake pipe work, I think it's called a 'T' connector? It had sheared off! I believe I got her to the hard shoulder before the temperature gauge hit red, I drive in a 'business ' like manner so getting her to a halt as quick as I could took a good few seconds. The temp gauge was sitting in the middle, when I first noticed the red warning light and coolant low message, it climbed quite dramatically I've got to say. Anyway literally just moments ago, she is now on her way to Halfords, the tow truck bloke asked me to drive her to his flat bed, so moment of truth, she fired up first time and I drove her up onto the back of his truck, so hopefully she might be okay, I won't find out until early next week

Hi Les do you know when the AC was last re-gassed? Steve

Hi Chaps Further to my post 'Double Whammy' I now know why the coolant level was low have a look at the pic taken 20 - 30 secs after managing to get to the hard shoulder of the M20, forgive finger in the pics, I was more concerned about getting rear-ended by 40 foot arctics!

Hi Tim hope its not to bad try this link to 'JAG TV' they have several useful videos, its an S type 'R' but I presume the box would be similar / same Regards Steve

Andy As far as I know you need specialist equipment to de-gas the AC system, I would suggest it is not something you would want to attempt, unless you are experienced in this field, and have the 'Kit' to hand? I had mine replaced last year £700 inc new aux belt while it was off, re-gas, pressure tested for leaks (mine is a petrol by the way) regards Steve

Hi Guys Does anyone know what the size of the Hexsert fittings are? I presume these are the ones? http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=hexserts&LH_ItemCondition=1000&clk_rvr_id=1025468610969&adpos=1o2&treatment_id=7&crlp=92076807972_827&MT_ID=10&device=c&rlsatarget=aud-105106656546%3Akwd-23386737455&keyword=hexserts&geo_id=32251&poi=&crdt=0&ul_noapp=true regards Steve

I know you're pain, but at least I had a handle! I totally get the problem with getting the first slat out of the way as well. Do you have by chance a before and after photo? I am of course very biased, but was very proud of the finished look, I hope you are as pleased?

Hi Andrew Very nice, did you do the cutting yourself, or buy a pre made grille? Here's a link on something similar I did a few months ago . Just click / tap on facelift for the little lady Regards Steve

Blumming hell!!

Hi Paul A complete shot in the dark, CDC / DVD mounted in the glove box? I'm guessing the loom is designed for both LHD & RHD hence the connectors being on both sides? you mention an early S type, didn't they have the CDC in the glove box? i have done a little bit of googling, it appears to be a ford main wiring assembly, I also think the PB refers to 'Power Bus' what for is another thing! The following are some part numbers I came across CT4Z-14401-PB / CE5Z-14401-PB maybe going in completely the wrong direction though Anyway I'll do a bit more digging, if I find anything I'll pop it on here Regards Steve