Claws

Hi Dean If I understand correctly, is the threaded part of the stud still in the hub? If so, years and years ago, I had a similar problem. If memory serves, (and I am talking 20 plus years!) I used a stud extractor, i did this when the hubs where cold, if hot, as you know, the studs expand, and will be tight. I sprayed the broken stud with WD40 and let it work itself around the thread for a few minutes, I then drilled a small pilot hole down the centre of the stud, I then enlarged that hole, to receive the stud extractor. It was a self threading / left hand thread which is quite important! When the stud had cooled down from the drilling, I inserted the extractor, and started it off, keeping as straight as possible, don't be tempted to use WD 40 again, if you get any of it in the hole you have just drilled, it will compress, unless you drill through the whole length of the stud. As the extractor started to bite, it undid the broken stud. I would just double check the info I have given, in case my memory is playing tricks! Either way I hope you get it sorted out Regards Steve

Hi Richard What model S type do you have? I have a 3.0 'Sport 200' (whatever that means?) I also have to use B roads, and find the ruts / grooves left by farm vehicles want to dictate the position of the car, so keeping a strong hand on the wheel sorts that out. I may be completely wide of the mark here (the chaps will correct me) but the suspension on my car is quite stiff, which I would expect for a 'Sports' model. It may also be my imagination, but when I press the 'S' button it feels stiffer! Overall I find the steering / body roll to be very responsive, so would imagine variations in road surface would affect the car, especially if the depth of the uneven surface is quite significant. But like I say, the guys in the JOC will have a damn sight more experience / knowledge than I

Thanks guys for your responses. A couple of questions Spring to mind, if you have this bit of kit running while your driving, does it record the live feed back, for reviewing at a later time? And does it read compression levels in each pot? I'm not sure exactly how advanced, technology has travelled, so I have to ask these questions in order to get up to speed with it all!! Regards Steve

Hi All Has anybody tried these devices or similar bluetooth ones? if so whats your thoughts? Scan Tool 427201 OBDLink LX Bluetooth OBD-II/2 Scan Tool Interface Code Reader http://www.amazon.co.uk/427201-OBDLink-Bluetooth-Interface-Software/dp/B00H9S71LW/ref=cm_cr_pr_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8 Using Android App Torque Pro https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torque Cheers Steve

Steve Do you have any pics?

The ones, that would make you shake your head, and walk away from a purchase! Having been a member for a couple of months give or take, quite a few threads mention Fault codes. I would be interested to know the absolute Deal breakers, if you were considering buying a Jag (X or S type / petrol or diesel / manual / auto) With this question, I make an assumption the seller would not object to a diagnostic test, if they did, wouldn’t alarm bells sound anyway? I’m still learning about these cars, and want to learn as much as I can. Would there ever be a time when the dashboard lights don’t warn of a fault? Just to use as an excuse to get your reader plugged in. I suppose this is a question based on how deep your pockets are, so if you were looking at cars in the £2,000 - £3,000 range, that seem fine after a visual / audible check. I guess there are some minor fault codes, that could lead / indicate something more serious is just around the corner, I just want to focus on the real scary ones! I hope my question makes sense, and is an easy one to answer, I’m thinking, answers to this might come in handy for other Jaguar owners or those considering buying one. It would also be useful to know what the fault code means in Layman’s terms. Regards Steve

Hi Guys If the weather is kind to me this weekend I was thinking, of spending an hour or two cleaning up the engine bay. I am interested to know what you guys use for the plastic bits? ‘Back to black’? something else? and also i was wondering if there is any product out there for the Alloy manifold? I think that would look particularly good if spruced up. As always any suggestions greatly received Cheers Steve

£3,000,000 (million) seems a tad expensive ;) just kidding

Hi Paul I have been looking at 'Stuff' ! and came across this, it may help you in identifying what your bolts are Screw--ing into http://xjkltd.co.uk/c/133/exterior-fittings-and-sunroof steve

Hi Chris I found this for another member, i think the main thing is to do both keys at the same time, i believe the frequency changes when ever you pair a key. I have not done this myself, and therefore cannot guarantee it works http://www.bluejag.c...programming.php X-Type 2.0, 2.5 and 3.0L Programming or pairing a new remote Key fob for the X Type is a very simple job that will cost a substantial amount if it is done by Jaguar. It's annoying but this may need to be done if your Key fob battery has been allowed to go flat, or the car battery has been removed for any length of time. Follow these steps exactly and you should have no problems, pairing old or replacement Key fobs for your car. 1.)I would recommended that you ensure all key fobs are fitted with new batteries. ( Click here to see battery replacement guide). 2.)Get in the car and close the drivers side door. 3.)Put the key into the ignition and turn to position I. 4.)Wait 5 seconds 5.)Turn the key quickly to position II then back to I four times. (do this only once) 6.)You should hear a single chime. 7.)Remove the Key 8.)For each Key fob in rapid succession. Press any single button on the key fob you wish to pair, you should hear a chime as each Key fob is paired with the security system. After the chime press a button on the next Key fob you wish to pair. 9.)On compleation after all keys have been programed, wait 3 minutes then check the operation of each Key fob by locking/unlocking the vehicle. Important Note :-All the fobs that you wish to use Must be paired at the same time. Every time you operate the key as in step 5 above the code will be changed, previously programmed fobs will no longer work unless you pair them all at the same time.

Good luck Paul, let's hope some else has a solution

Hi Paul Sorry but I have no idea on that one I'm afraid, I would guess it's one of those plastic threaded nuts, to reduce the risk of corrosion rusting the screws in solid. Do you have any manuals you can refer to? I have one that is over 3000 pages long I think it covers all maintenance issues inc body work, but is for my model, and unfortunately is on a memory stick back home ( I am trying to get any docs / diagrams I can on my car) I guess you will have all the doc's you need, but If it helps I can try and find the link to the PDF it may help. I just hope it's only one troublesome screw you have to deal with! Steve

Engine mounts??

Hi Paul Can you get your hand inside and touch the other end of the screw? If so, you can try and rest a pair of pliers or something metal, on the pointy bit of the screw, and push down while you are un-!Removed! on the other side. You are trying to help it to unscrew. If you can't get your hand in, have you tried a pair of pliers on the head of the screw? Grip, pull, turn? Although you do risk damaging the screw head. The only other option I can think of is drilling it out! Which I'm sure you don't want to do. I'm sure some of the guys will have other solutions Steve The word that has been !removed! Is 'un- screw--ing'

The rev counter probably twitches when the AC pump engages / disengages, just as it drops when turning the steering wheel, a bit more demand on the engine. I would pop it into Halfords or somewhere like that, just to get it checked, I think a Re-gas is about £50 - £60, they should pressure test the system as part of the service, just to make sure you have no coolant leaks.

Hi Brian When was the last time it was re-gassed? I have read the AC needs to be used / run at least once a week to keep it operating at its optimum Steve

Hi All A couple of times now I have hit the pedal to the floor, (sorry didn’t think to take note of speed at the time but my guess was about 30 first time, and about 70 second time) there was a big old thud / clunk sound from the rear of the car (it seemed to be anyway) the revs shot up, with a delayed response in acceleration, a couple of seconds I would say (I know there is a slight delay) and the acceleration wasn’t particularly quick either. She may have been in sport mode, I honestly don’t recall. I am quite happy with the way she accelerates just by pushing down on the pedal normally, you can feel the gears change down when you get to a certain point of pedal travel, and then a push in your spine, into the back of the seat as she moves past other vehicles. Going back to the clunk, and not wanting to be a harbinger of doom! Gearbox? Prop-shaft? Diff? all? nothing at all to be worried about? As always, I know one of you guys will have some ideas Thanks in advance Steve

Makes my Radiator Grille change look like a stroll in the park! are you clocking up your man hours on this? Just like Peter said will be following this with interest Steve

Hi Andy That looks really bad! Not a bodywork expert by any stretch of the imagination, but that looks like a massive and expensive restoration job? Made me scared to look at mine

Hi Phil Weekend getaway!

Hi All Have managed to sort out the size of the pics showing all stages. Hope they all come out ok? If anyone fancies having a go, I can let you know what I found out while I was making the change. Steve

Thanks guys for your help on this, but got to say I'm still a bit confused. It looks like I have some sort of cross over? At the front I have round fog lights / badge in the grille / washer jets on the bonnet, cockpit, no satnav but electronic handbrake, the back end looks like the MK1 in the photo Andy very kindly provided, do I own a Mutant

Colin Does your wife's hearing aids have switches on them to be used with induction loops? If so you could try switching them off, it may work..

Thanks Peter, I have taken photos of every stage (practically) but can't upload on the site due to size, would be happy to e-mail to anyone who would like to see them, there are about a dozen or more, but unfortunately it would mean multiple e-mails, because the one e-mail would be to big (mega byte wise) to send all in one go

Did this yesterday, I know I'm not the first, but just in case someone is interested.