The Voices

Finally managed to get time to fit the new starter today. No idea why I bothered, as ironically the car has started first time, every time for the last 2 weeks ! I can honestly say that extricating the top 'hidden' bolt is one of the most stressful car maintenance jobs that I have ever undertaken. It is a 13 mm headed bolt, not a 'stud / nut' like the lower one. Access is absolutely awful, you cannot even see it to get a spanner / socket on it. I managed to get about another half turn using an 's' shaped obstruction spanner and then after dozens of attempts, got a 13 mm 1/4 drive socket on it by attaching it to a 150 mm extension and a universal joint to clear the engine mounting. You have to basically feed the extension in down the side of the starter motor and then try to guide the socket onto the bolt head. I was then lucky enough to be able to undo it with another long 1/4 extension connected to the universal joint. So far, so good.................................. Then actually getting the starter motor out of the gap is another excercise in frustration. You have to twist and turn it at every angle imaginable to avoid damaging the oxygen sensor wires on the catalytic converter. Of course everything has sharp edges, wearing nitrile gloves is a waste of time, as they either split almost instantly or get cut to ribbons. My hands look like I have been attacked by angry cats. Once removed, you have to repeat the same process to get the new one back in place. The bottom stud is easy to get back in but the top bolt was hell on earth. Once again working blind and mostly by 'feel', it must have taken 30 attempts to get the bolt and the extension assembly into place, as there is no room to 'start' the bolt into the hole by hand. Using the same combination of extensions and the flexible joint allowed me to tighten it up for several turns, but it then became almost impossible. The bolt is approximately 50 mm long, so needs a lot of turns to get it tight enough to do the job. At this stage I was worried that I had managed to cross thread it, so had to call on the assistance of one of our technicians, who was doubt muttering '!Removed! amateurs' under his breath. He kindly had a look and had to undo the bolt to be able to check for any damage to the threads. Again, by a stroke of luck, the threads weren't damaged. He then had as much trouble as me trying to get the bolt / extension assembly back into place, when he did, the same problem occurred, seemed to be tightening up well, and then became very hard to turn. Only thing we could think was that the universal joint was now binding against the starter body as the bolt tightened. This resulted in him raiding everyones toolbox to try to find a different universal joint or alternative extension / socket combination. A different joint and a longer handled 1/4 ratchet allowed him to finally tighten the bolt, with much colourful language when he had to hold everything in place whilst one of the other technicians had to find an alternative ratchet to the first one he tried. I then finished up connecting the cables and made sure it would still start before refitting the undertray. Still starting first time, so no idea whether the new started has fixed anything or whether the fault has just 'gone to ground' for a while ? A couple of things have subsequently occurred to me: If doing it again (please, no !), I might be tempted to try a flexible extension drive, usually used for power screwdrivers. I have one the seems quite sturdy and allegedly rated for use with an impact driver. If I put a 13 mm 'nut driver' on the extension and then push it down the starter motor body, I wouldn't need a universal joint, as the extension itself will bend to clear the engine mount. By using the 13 mm 'S' spanner to get a couple of turns on the bolt to initially loosen it, the flexible extension won't be under as much strain when undoing it the rest of the way. The second thing that has been on my mind is the following: On my first attempt at the starter, I gave up and got on with replacing the headlamp washer pump instead. When I removed the wheel arch liner, one of the wires had come out of the plug going to the headlamp washer motor and was just 'floating' with a metal spade connector. The wires themselves also looked as though they had been trapped or damaged at some point, with some technical assistance, the spade connector was refitted to the plastic housing and the wires covered with insulating tape. I don't see how this could have any bearing on the intermittent 'non start' problem, but from that day, it has always started first time ?

Someone on the American forum found another video for me. The trick is to use a combination of socket and extension, plus a flexible joint. Fixings are actually a threaded stud with a welded nut, so the whole thing unscrews as one piece. Hopefully, this should make the job do-able when I next have access to the ramp.

Thank you. I have one of those 'twist handle' ratchets, but there is no way to get a socket onto the 'hidden' nut from any angle that I can see, the starter motor body is in the way. Also thanks for the 'You Tube' video, unfortunately it is for the V6 version, so the bolt holes are in different positions than the V8 starter. I did wonder whether once the bottom nut is removed the starter motor could be turned slightly to get better access, then realised that the thread will still be sticking through the mounting hole ! I presume they have used nuts onto studs instead of bolts, because there would be no room to undo and extract a 30 mm long bolt.

Purchased a new starter motor and planned to fit it today. Got the car up on the ramp and removed the undertray, according to 'Topix' the starter motor on the V8 is only held on by two 'bolts' (they actually appear to be nuts ?) The V6 and diesel models are different. Bottom nut is clearly visible, it has a second nut attached that secures the earth lead. The top nut cannot be seen using any method that I have at my disposal. I can reach in and feel it, it's a 13 mm, but trying to get anything on it to loosen it is proving to be very awkward. Managed to get an 'S' shaped spanner onto it and managed to move it by a fraction but can't seem to get any of my 13 mm ratchet spanners onto it. Has anyone tackled this job who can provide any hints or tips ? Starter motor removal and refit.pdf

Tried to fit the starter today but hit a problem. Got the car up on the ramp and removed the undertray, according to 'Topix' the starter motor on the V8 is only held on by two 'bolts' (they actually appear to be nuts ?) The V6 and diesel models are different. Bottom nut is clearly visible, it has a second nut attached that secures the earth lead. The top nut cannot be seen using any method that I have at my disposal. I can reach in and feel it, it's a 13 mm, but trying to get anything on it to loosen it is proving to be very awkward. Managed to get an 'S' shaped spanner onto it and managed to move it by a fraction but can't seem to get any of my 13 mm ratchet spanners onto it. Has anyone tackled this job who can provide any hints or tips ? Starter motor removal and refit.pdf

Starter motor has arrived, hopefully fitting it tomorrow

Still waiting for my starter motor to arrive !

Thank you ! I have just ordered a replacement starter motor, will see what happens once it is fitted.

Had a chat with the technicians at work, consensus is a faulty starter motor. Suggestion is that the failure to turn over properly is what's triggering the fault codes for both sensors.

Thank you !

Thank you, I am beginning to suspect the starter motor might be the culprit. I found the 'engine earth strap', unfortunately not quite what I was expecting. It seems to be just a single wire that appears out of the rest of the loom, only around four inches of cable with an eyelet on the end, bolted to the front of drivers side cylinder head. Pain in the neck to get to it properly but using my inspection camera and following the wire to the bolt, everything feels okay, no exposed wire that I can see, bolt seems tight. I would like to inspect the + and - cables going to the starter motor as well, but can't get the car high enough in the air by the roadside to remove the undertray. Looks like taking it in to work and putting it on a ramp might be the best option. No idea where the starter motor even is ! Presumably where the gearbox meets the block ? Did wonder whether the starter motor could be sticking or not engaging properly (solenoid issues ?) If it's the same age and mileage as the car, (2006 and 176,000 miles !), it might be due for a replacement ?

Just tried swapping over the starter motor relay in the fusebox under the bonnet (R20 if the online diagrams for a 2006 model are correct) Exchanged it for the identical relay for the headlamp power wash (using the theory that this relay will not have performed as many switching operations) Still took 5 attempts to start. As an experiment, switched off immediately, removed the key, locked the car and it restarted first turn, repeated this a few times. This suggests that my theory that the issue might be temperature related is incorrect (only previously tried restarts when the car has warmed up)

I am experiencing an unusual problem with my 2006 S-TYPE R. and hoping for some input or suggestions. It has recently started having issues starting from cold. I will try to provide as much info as possible, apologies for the long post: When turning the key, sometimes nothing happens, sometimes there is a mechanical 'clunk', sometimes it tries to turn over and occasionally, it starts. Repeated attempts eventually get it to start, when it eventually does, it just starts as normal as soon as I turn the key, rather than turning over for ages. Sometimes after it starts, it seems to run 'lumpy' for a while, other times it is as smooth as usual. Battery is brand new and charged, I replaced the battery negative cable as a precaution, as the terminal clamp had 'cracked' (the fault was there prior to replacing the cable, doesn't seem to have made things better or worse) The flap on the ignition barrel isn't sticking open, when I insert the key, the seat and steering wheel move to the memorised position. The dashboard lights come on when I turn the key to the appropriate position. Reading the fault codes after trying to start it reveal P0340 and P0345, which are camshaft position sensors for bank 1 and bank 2 (or wiring ?) It has been suggested that it is very unlikely that both sensors have failed at the same time, more likely to be a common issue affecting both banks (possibly poor earth / grounding ?) Once it has warmed up, it will repeatedly start on the first turn of the key. A friend suggested connect a jump lead from a metal point on the engine to a good earth, to see if the engine earth strap was loose. Thought that this had identified the issue when I tried it yesterday, as it subsequently started at least six times in a row (removed the key, locked the car, unlocked it, key in ignition, started first time) It appears as though this wasn't the case, was only starting because I had already had it running, so must have warmed up enough. Left it overnight, tried to start this morning and it didn't even try to turn over, immediately tried the jump lead trick but still wouldn't start (unless of course I wasn't getting a good connection at one end ?) I think that at one point I have also seen a 'coolant temperature sensor' fault code, but it seems to warm up as normal, doesn't overheat or loose water. So, poor earth, sticking starter motor or relay, faulty coolant sensor, ley lines, car parked on ancient native American burial ground, or none of the above ?

Anyone know where the engine earth strap is on the supercharged 4.2 V8 please ? It's a 2006 model.

Available now on retention

225's would only be 20 mm wider than the 205's that are on. If you look on the back of the wheel, there will be the rim width embossed on one of the spokes (possibly 7 J, which would denote a 7 inch wide rim) If you then find some photos of one of the alternative designs, you can see whether they are any wider ?

I can't remember if the other 16" wheel designs were any wider than the Helios. Possibly just that someone has put the wrong tyre size on them ?

Those are genuine S-TYPE 'Helios' wheels, they were the standard set up on the 'base' specification 2.5 V6 models. Very rarely see any, when we were ordering the cars new for stock, we always ordered them with a factory upgrade.

This link should give you the part number, price isn't horrendous. https://www.sngbarratt.com/English/#/UK/parts/9c54c926-ee45-4d95-a5d8-45e7e31daf4a?fromList=XE(20) > XE(99) > BRAKE DISC AND CALIPER-FRONT Assembly(35398)&fromCategory=Node RH%2FLH(Node Id 3587686) I have no affiliation with SNG Barratt, but their parts locator is very useful. Other suppliers are available !

Hi all, the private plate from my X350 XJR is for sale. JG 54 XJR (I read it as 'J(A)G 54 XJR !) Currently on retention. Price is £499 including a set of legal UK plates.

When my X350 (and XFR) suffered from a similar problem, I ended up replacing the window regulator / motor assembly and this cured the problem. About £60 from Ebay I think, wasn't a difficult job.

How did you get on with the valuation ?

Sounds like what used to be a very common scam in the days when I drove Subaru's ?

F-PACE production continues for the USA and other markets but for the UK all models are discontinued. First of the new 'all electric' models due to start customer deliveries in 2026. UK Jaguar dealer network for new car sales will also shrink from 10th November, supposedly less than 20 retailers will be able to take orders for the new model once pricing and specifications are announced.

I work for a JLR main dealer and have F-PACE's as my company cars. My mileage dictates that I usually have to change them at 3 months old with around 6k miles (hence I have gone through a lot of them in the last 4 years !) I have never yet had one that has needed any additional oil. Unless it was underfilled in the first place, a litre per 500 miles sounds ridiculous. Based on the statement from the dealer, expect to use 42 litres between oil changes ! (21,000 miles or 2 years) !