The Voices

Still waiting for my starter motor to arrive !

Thank you ! I have just ordered a replacement starter motor, will see what happens once it is fitted.

Had a chat with the technicians at work, consensus is a faulty starter motor. Suggestion is that the failure to turn over properly is what's triggering the fault codes for both sensors.

Thank you !

Thank you, I am beginning to suspect the starter motor might be the culprit. I found the 'engine earth strap', unfortunately not quite what I was expecting. It seems to be just a single wire that appears out of the rest of the loom, only around four inches of cable with an eyelet on the end, bolted to the front of drivers side cylinder head. Pain in the neck to get to it properly but using my inspection camera and following the wire to the bolt, everything feels okay, no exposed wire that I can see, bolt seems tight. I would like to inspect the + and - cables going to the starter motor as well, but can't get the car high enough in the air by the roadside to remove the undertray. Looks like taking it in to work and putting it on a ramp might be the best option. No idea where the starter motor even is ! Presumably where the gearbox meets the block ? Did wonder whether the starter motor could be sticking or not engaging properly (solenoid issues ?) If it's the same age and mileage as the car, (2006 and 176,000 miles !), it might be due for a replacement ?

Just tried swapping over the starter motor relay in the fusebox under the bonnet (R20 if the online diagrams for a 2006 model are correct) Exchanged it for the identical relay for the headlamp power wash (using the theory that this relay will not have performed as many switching operations) Still took 5 attempts to start. As an experiment, switched off immediately, removed the key, locked the car and it restarted first turn, repeated this a few times. This suggests that my theory that the issue might be temperature related is incorrect (only previously tried restarts when the car has warmed up)

I am experiencing an unusual problem with my 2006 S-TYPE R. and hoping for some input or suggestions. It has recently started having issues starting from cold. I will try to provide as much info as possible, apologies for the long post: When turning the key, sometimes nothing happens, sometimes there is a mechanical 'clunk', sometimes it tries to turn over and occasionally, it starts. Repeated attempts eventually get it to start, when it eventually does, it just starts as normal as soon as I turn the key, rather than turning over for ages. Sometimes after it starts, it seems to run 'lumpy' for a while, other times it is as smooth as usual. Battery is brand new and charged, I replaced the battery negative cable as a precaution, as the terminal clamp had 'cracked' (the fault was there prior to replacing the cable, doesn't seem to have made things better or worse) The flap on the ignition barrel isn't sticking open, when I insert the key, the seat and steering wheel move to the memorised position. The dashboard lights come on when I turn the key to the appropriate position. Reading the fault codes after trying to start it reveal P0340 and P0345, which are camshaft position sensors for bank 1 and bank 2 (or wiring ?) It has been suggested that it is very unlikely that both sensors have failed at the same time, more likely to be a common issue affecting both banks (possibly poor earth / grounding ?) Once it has warmed up, it will repeatedly start on the first turn of the key. A friend suggested connect a jump lead from a metal point on the engine to a good earth, to see if the engine earth strap was loose. Thought that this had identified the issue when I tried it yesterday, as it subsequently started at least six times in a row (removed the key, locked the car, unlocked it, key in ignition, started first time) It appears as though this wasn't the case, was only starting because I had already had it running, so must have warmed up enough. Left it overnight, tried to start this morning and it didn't even try to turn over, immediately tried the jump lead trick but still wouldn't start (unless of course I wasn't getting a good connection at one end ?) I think that at one point I have also seen a 'coolant temperature sensor' fault code, but it seems to warm up as normal, doesn't overheat or loose water. So, poor earth, sticking starter motor or relay, faulty coolant sensor, ley lines, car parked on ancient native American burial ground, or none of the above ?

Anyone know where the engine earth strap is on the supercharged 4.2 V8 please ? It's a 2006 model.

Available now on retention

225's would only be 20 mm wider than the 205's that are on. If you look on the back of the wheel, there will be the rim width embossed on one of the spokes (possibly 7 J, which would denote a 7 inch wide rim) If you then find some photos of one of the alternative designs, you can see whether they are any wider ?

I can't remember if the other 16" wheel designs were any wider than the Helios. Possibly just that someone has put the wrong tyre size on them ?

Those are genuine S-TYPE 'Helios' wheels, they were the standard set up on the 'base' specification 2.5 V6 models. Very rarely see any, when we were ordering the cars new for stock, we always ordered them with a factory upgrade.

This link should give you the part number, price isn't horrendous. https://www.sngbarratt.com/English/#/UK/parts/9c54c926-ee45-4d95-a5d8-45e7e31daf4a?fromList=XE(20) > XE(99) > BRAKE DISC AND CALIPER-FRONT Assembly(35398)&fromCategory=Node RH%2FLH(Node Id 3587686) I have no affiliation with SNG Barratt, but their parts locator is very useful. Other suppliers are available !

Hi all, the private plate from my X350 XJR is for sale. JG 54 XJR (I read it as 'J(A)G 54 XJR !) Currently on retention. Price is £499 including a set of legal UK plates.

When my X350 (and XFR) suffered from a similar problem, I ended up replacing the window regulator / motor assembly and this cured the problem. About £60 from Ebay I think, wasn't a difficult job.

How did you get on with the valuation ?

Sounds like what used to be a very common scam in the days when I drove Subaru's ?

F-PACE production continues for the USA and other markets but for the UK all models are discontinued. First of the new 'all electric' models due to start customer deliveries in 2026. UK Jaguar dealer network for new car sales will also shrink from 10th November, supposedly less than 20 retailers will be able to take orders for the new model once pricing and specifications are announced.

I work for a JLR main dealer and have F-PACE's as my company cars. My mileage dictates that I usually have to change them at 3 months old with around 6k miles (hence I have gone through a lot of them in the last 4 years !) I have never yet had one that has needed any additional oil. Unless it was underfilled in the first place, a litre per 500 miles sounds ridiculous. Based on the statement from the dealer, expect to use 42 litres between oil changes ! (21,000 miles or 2 years) !

Find as many similar examples as you can that are for sale and forward all the links to the insurer, pointing out that you are disputing their valuation on this basis. It might also be worth getting a valuation from an independent some, some of the owners clubs provide this facility.

Its difficult to know whether it would be cost effective to fix. A ticking noise can sometimes be a failed / sticking injector but if it is coming from behind the timing cover, it would suggest timing chain/ tensioner / guide / pulley issues ? If it is 'just' timing chain related, replacement with the upgraded items is likely to be between £2k-£3k at a specialist. If any internal engine damage is the cause of the noise, it seems that parts are tricky to source, most people then try to source a second hand engine. Prices seem to vary between £5k-£7k, but then there is the fitting cost on top. Fixed, the car is probably worth £9k-£11k, based on asking prices on Autotrader. Might be worth speaking to other Jaguar specialists to see if anyone else has come across the problem, taking a video on your phone might give them a starting point. Breaking it yourself is a hassle, some bits sell quickly, others don't, you then have to find a way to dispose of whats left. No idea what a specialist breaker would offer you as a complete car. Probably worth putting up some more details of interior / exterior colour combination and see whether there is someone on here that fancies a project ?

I don't think that all X150 models had the extra inputs ? My memory isn't what it was, but I think cars equipped with 'Premium Sound' had an extra panel in the armrest that has a USB input (for a memory stick with music on it) and a 30 pin I-POD connector ( don't think it has a 3.5 mm stereo input socket, unlike the XF) If you car doesn't have this option, there are possibly some aftermarket options available that will be fairly expensive. The cheap way to do it is to get one of the widely and cheaply available FM transmitters ? They will allow you to stream music from your phone to the device (many also have a USB input to plug in a memory stick loaded with music, SD card slot for the same purpose and AUX input socket that could be used to connect to the headphone output of your phone) The device will then output your music on a selectable FM frequency, you then just have to tune in a spare FM station to the matching frequency on the cars original audio unit. The quality of the results can vary, if you are in an area with very good FM reception, it can be tricky to find a frequency that doesn't get interference from nearby broadcast stations. These are the type of thing: https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=fm+transmitter&_sacat=38635&_sop=15 I have tried several different ones with varying degrees of success, strangely the best results were from one of the cheaper ones available. Looks too cheap to work but seemed OK in my X350 XJR. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/235504970851?itmmeta=01J4BXZ7JHSC4F0DRS8A10T70E&hash=item36d530ac63:g:VlQAAOSwhYNduloR&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAAwHN8%2FBS0riu7I0yl8fuMYYo28ny1V0lSxYQKAXmujCER0aOeodXyur4EUMup0AJ3nXz1t1PZeulurxjMWBhYs8aI2BaK1pF9bmjMz3gGVvacOzDXAsyndDTdnjmEB9%2BS01ed3XMzzCOaWvrRVLtM69bxTYEAfu1cXhPaYZnO4ufT21%2BbaevSVn%2BIGmsJ2UV15EVT2S9G86yqRMFucnST9vYcwZa8IKwUrRYsU9DF9fXEAdCrnbozH8r72qkMg8vwvw%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR7T5_P2iZA&edge=0 This is only to show the version, I just found a seller with quick delivery and decent feedback.

Might be worth checking the part numbers using this link. It lists them by chassis number. https://www.sngbarratt.com/English/#/uk/FindParts/Families/XF/14/XF 2006-2016/52/EXTERIOR FITTINGS AND SUNROOF/12670/assembly/32523 One possibility for the date discrepancy on your registration document is that the car was originally a Jaguar evaluation or engineering vehicle (mostly have a reg number that starts 'VX')

Probably put it on Pistonheads or similar, with a very detailed advert providing all of the information and as many good quality photos as you can upload ? I would include pictures and details of invoices for work carried out, especially any modifications. Most Jaguar forums also have 'cars for sale' sections for members, not as much traffic as the 'usual' advertising websites but less likely to get messers and wannabe test pilots. You will also need to be realistic about your pricing, it is very rare to see much of a return on the money you have spent on modifying the car (as I know from my Subaru tuning days) The XFR is a specialised car that only appeals to a small target audience, modified ones have an even smaller pool of potential buyers. In the current climate, they are perceived to be expensive to tax and fuel, and modified cars can be difficult and expensive to insure.

Good luck with the search, something will turn up !