KevinFX22

Update. It wasn't the door or window seal because it just happened again. I discovered that the water was entering the car from high up behind the trim that fits to the left of the front passenger's feet. Very difficult to get to from inside the car. We took the wheel arch liner off and found that there is a rubber bung that pushes up into a void inside the wing. Water pours down into the void from the scuttle and muck eventually totaly blocks the drain. Over time, the void fills up and the water over-spills through a hole into the passenger foot well. I bailed around four liters of water out of the rear foot well and am once again drying the soaking carpets, front to back. The photo, 'blockage 4' shows that the driver's side was also almost blocked with grot. The answer is to blow out the void with an air line.

Thinking that 6Ltrs of water in the passenger side meant blocked holes between the scuttle and the wheel arch resulting in water ingress via the pollen filter and a drowned carpet, I cleaned out the scuttle area and pushed the fillers back into the voids in both wings as they had moved forward almost blocking the drain holes. That wasn't the problem. It turned out that the passenger side front door window seal had somehow dropped away from its position in the door frame around the top of the glass. When I opened the door there was a splosh of water all over my shoes which I didn't understand until I noticed the re-positioned seal. The car had stood in steady rain for three days. The carpet will take longer than that to dry out. I've put the front seat on the back seat and managed to get under the carpet to squeeze out the foam under the carpet, but what a job! Does anyone know how to remove the lower 'center pillar trim' without breaking it, as with that off, carpet access would be much easier.

I'm not sure if anyone else has had this problem, but my 2008 X type estate's battery began to give me problems that seemed to be down to its age. I replaced it and the new battery discharged over a period of 48 hours down to 2 volts. As I was hunting for what had to be something draining the power with the ignition off I heard a very faint buzzing noise coming from the area of the sat nav and multi changer in the rear wing that I had never heard before. To cut a long story short, I've discovered that the amplifier is the culprit. When the ignition is turned off the amplifier still draws power. I've removed it and repositioned it so that I can unplug it when the car is not being used. We will see what happens, but when it is unplugged there seems to be no power drain.

Having threatened in ear shot of my wife to do horrible things to the whole stack of electronics because its a b....r to get out and just as much of a b....r to put back in, I'll grit my teeth and wait until the weekend. I dragged it all out again this morning because I thought I was missing something obvious when I received your loop. Its a funny thing, but each Norton Commando was built starting with the horn. I now believe that each X Type was built starting with the CDC. Your efforts are much appreciated. Ta.

Hello Paul. I've received the loop, but the plug on it is exactly the same as the one on the ends of the cabling that plug into the back of the CDC. I'm needing a socket with loop (in place of the CDC) that the plug can plug into. I've just noticed that in another part of the loom jaguar fit a connector block between two of these plugs. Sorry to be a pain, but is that something that is widely available? If so, I could fit a connector block and then your loop. This is all getting rather complicated. I hope my description is understandable. Cheers. Kev

Thanks Paul, you're a star. I discovered today what a hopeless untidy mess a dealer can make of tow bar wiring. At least I assume it was a dealer as I can't believe Jaguar did it. Because I've been rummaging around amongst the ridiculous spider web of wires that had been shoved into the rear corner beside the CDC, somehow when I shoved them all back into the same space again, the indicator fuse kept blowing when I indicated left. I've sorted the fault, but I'll have to do some drastic tidying up when I put it all back again. I think it will probably be worth a photo as the spare wire could be used as a tow rope if the tow ball ever snapped off. All very disappointing! By the way, during the winter I had a wheel well full of water that drowned the reversing sensor black box. After drying the contents of the box on a radiator I replaced it and tied it to the wiring loom running across the back of the car so that it was higher up and out of range of the water. That did the trick until I could get stuck in to the water leak, which I'm still not sure I cured. I do wonder if it was the damp that caused the CDC to go up the creek.

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Hello again Paul. Received a thing through the post, (picture below) today that wouldn't fit even by magic. If your offer to let me have one of your home made jobs still stands, let me know if I can recompense you and I'll take you up on it. Cheers.

Thanks for the offer Paul, but in my excitement at being able to fix the problem I quickly ordered one off EBay. This problem had me in the depths of depression because I really rate my car, and having this fault occur with the CDC after the same happened to my earlier X Type, well, I was gutted. I've now managed to subtly adjust the stack of electronics and it's surroundings so that I can get it out in a few minutes. Taking it out the first time is something of a nightmare. I made a tool that undid the screws in the side of the CDC unit so that I could slide it out the front only to find that the cables weren't long enough and it would only come out the back. Once I got it out I stripped it down, pushed the CD back in to the magazine, lifted the top of the unit to eject it and thereafter it just refused to work again. There must be quite a market for replacement CDC units if they all suffer with jamming mags and CDs. Sorry to go on so, and Thanks

Hi Don. It would help to know where abouts the noise is coming from. Front, back, left, right or middle. Rear shocks, drop links and rear anti roll bushes can be a pain especially on the estate. Best of luck with it. Also, check that you don't have a broken spring.

Thanks for that Paul. I'll probably look for a replacement CDC, but a terminator loop sounds like a good stand by. I'm assuming I'll get one fairly easily????

This is the second CD auto changer I've had that has malfunctioned. I fixed the first on in another car, but this one decided to become awkward and is now bust beyond repair. Does anyone know if by removing the auto changer from the system, the Jaguar Voice, the phone and all sound from the radio and dash mounted CD stop working. My sat nav still works, but like I say, I have no sound coming from the radio or CD player although they seem to be working fine according to the touch screen, and the Jag voice and phone have disappeared. Any help would be much appreciated.

I have a 2004 diesel 2Ltr estate with tow bar, that has done 222,200 miles and is still going strong. It drives smooth and well, is in very good condition inside, (cream leather) and good outside, (beige/gold). It has been well looked after (money little object), but seems to have perhaps a leaking crank shaft oil seal. I can't be bothered with it as I have another low mileage 2008 diesel estate. Is there anyone who would be interested in obtaining said car, which is in mid Norfolk. The high mileage has been done mostly on motorways at night and at law abiding speeds. I find it difficult to get rid, but unfortunately there comes a time! It has fairly recently had new starter motor, steering pump, oil temp thermostat, battery, wheel bearings, and injectors at 110,000 miles. I've done 160,000 of its miles. Unfortunately oil is getting on a hot exhaust and it makes driving rather unpleasant if you have to stop in traffic. Very unpleasant in fact! You just can't open the windows fast enough. I don't feel I can justify the cost of fixing the seal problem.

Hi Rowley. Many years ago; I think it was when sabre tooth tigers roamed the earth, I remember buying Esso tyres. They had a lifetime warranty and were fantastic tyres. This actually goes back to 1976. I never had occasion to exchange one under the warranty and I can't remember when they stopped production. I bought rather oversize wheels and tyres for my Mk 2 Cortina. The fronts were so oversize that they hit the antiroll bar on full lock. Great times! Kev

Swaffham. Norfolk.

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Hello Keith. I'm afraid that I don't have an answer to your problem, but I wonder what mileage your car has done. Mine is on the same plate as yours. 54. It has done 218000 miles and under hard acceleration smokes like a ship laying a smoke screen. It is highly embarrassing and makes me cringe at night when, as you say, I can see the results in the headlights of a following car. My car still goes like a train and is both quiet and smooth, just as it always has been. I don't notice smoke while driving steadily. I wonder if it is worn piston rings that are causing the problem. Could it be that under acceleration they can't cope too well? I'm afraid that under the increasing barrage of hate for all things diesel, I'm beginning to feel guilty about driving my car. Driven sensibly I still get 57 mpg from mine and feel that that that alone is good enough reason for persevering. It would be nice if someone could shed light on a proper reason for so much smoke under acceleration from an engine that for all intents and purposes still does everything well, but has a high mileage. Kev

Thanks for the tips David. I must admit that I was toying with the hub possibility. I've now gone back to my old 2004 X Type for the winter months. I'll get around to spending further money on the 08 Sovereign when I feel a little more confident of a positive result. I get the feeling that a fix probably won't be cheap. Its a shame, but I have to say that if all the 2.2 Ltr Sovereign's 'bells and whistles' were in the 2 Ltr, it would be a fantastic car. The 2 Ltr is quieter, does a better MPG and seems to be a more 'refined drive'. Even after its high mileage it is still smooth and a joy to drive. It doesn't have as much 'get up and go', but I love it, even if the driver's seat is starting to sag a little. Six gears? What a waste of space!

A few months ago I had the hand brake cables replaced on my 2004 estate. Everything went as advertised on the tin, until I parked on a fairly steep slope about a week after the fitment. I applied the hand brake 'in the pre new cable way' and got out of the car. Some ten minutes passed by, at which point I was approached by the owner of the garage I was visiting and told that I might like to come and see what had happened. It turned out that my car's hand brake had released due to the working parts cooling down, and it had run back ten metres into a solid steel post. Luckily, my tow bar took the worst of the damage, bending the detachable swan neck to one side (£130) and clouting the rear bumper. Warning! If you have your cables replaced, make sure that you give the hand brake lever an extra tug for good measure.

I hear what you say, but I still find it odd that new discs cure the problem for a while, but warp over a reasonably short time. It can only be heat and something that isn't flat that is making them warp. The only time I get the juddering is when I apply the brakes. The harder I apply them the worse the judder is. At any other time the car seems perfectly smooth. A suspension problem surely won't warp the discs. K

Hello Phillip. I'm afraid at present I don't have an answer, but I too am going somewhat insane with the same sort of problem. I bought a 2008 2.2 Sovereign estate with 40.000 miles on the clock. This was 18 months ago. Lovely car, 'BUT'! When I bought it, it had new discs all round. 500 - 1000 miles later when I used the brakes they juddered through the steering wheel. I replaced the discs. Lovely again, until 500 - 1000 miles later, back to juddering. Thinking that it might not like that particular make of discs or that there was a manufacturers problem I had them replaced with a different make. Exactly the same thing has happened again. The juddering creeps up in severity over the distance. I have been told by a Jaguar dealer that some XFs have had the same problem and that it turned out to be the wheels. The minutely uneven surface of the wheel that bolts up against the discs apparently causes the discs to warp over a period of time. Strangely, they quoted me 500 - 1000 miles as a typical distance. Even though it sounds somewhat crazy, I have no reason to doubt the Dealer, as I get on well with them and they knew I wasn't about to spend a wallet full of money with them. My wheels were refurbished by the previous owner who quite obviously lavished time and money on the car. It seems that between wheels, discs, drive shafts and hubs, there is a fine choice of suspicious items. I now know for sure that it isn't the discs that are causing the problem, but what to do next? I too would welcome any good feed back. P.S. An earlier X Type I still have, had a new, but duff near side front wheel bearing fitted that caused the ABS warning light to come on every time I went around a sharpish right hander. We only discovered the cause after a few thousand miles, when the wheel bearing finally bit the dust. I was forever having to stop to turn the ignition off, to re-set the electronics. The warning would go from ABS to engine management and then re-set. What a pain that was! Still a lovely car though, even after 2020000 miles. K

Whatever you do, make sure that nothing is loose in the boot of your car. You may think I'm joking, but not long after I'd got the rear end of my car silenced, the jack came loose and started making noises. I was near to pulling my hair out until I accidentaly discovered what was wrong when I emptied everything out of the rear of the car in a fit of rage. My relief on discovering the loose jack was like a cool shower after a half marathon. All the best with your problem. Kev

For years I had a clonk and rattle from the back of my 54 X type estate. I changed everything twice. Each time I changed something including the anti role bar, the noise almost disappeared, but kept coming back slightly worse. Eventually I replaced the rear shocks. Ahhh!! Silence! Even now after 202.000 miles the car rides on a feather bed. In fact I've driven almost new hire cars that sound awful compared to my 'beauty'. At its worst, if I went over rough road with the brakes on gently, there was no noise. It used to get right on my nerves, especially on a smooth motorway. Each time I hit an imperfection in the road there would be a clonk. It was so embarrassing when carrying a passenger that I felt I had to make excuses all the time. As I say, a stretch of rough road made it rattle. I hope you get it sorted.

I've owned a 200Ltr D SE on a 54 plate for seven years. It has now done 202,250 miles and will still return 61.5 mpg at 55mph (sat nav speed) at night on the motorway. If I follow a truck, I can get nearly 70 mpg. The car will also return mid 40 mpg if I travel at the 'legal' limits and involve town driving. I've just bought a 2.2 D Sovereign at 40,000 miles just in case the 2 Ltr dies on me. (I need total reliability) The Sovereign does about 5 mpg less over long distances and is a little annoying because just where you will do the best mpg, it wants to change between 5th and 6th gear. I forgive it because it is such a brilliant car. It is now in dry storage waiting for the 2 Ltr to die. I'm hoping it won't at least for another 50,000 miles. I can't sing the praises of the 2 Ltr D Jag loud enough, even if a Green Flag man filled me with doubt when a jubilee clip broke on a turbo pipe and left me stranded a long way from home. (He didn't have a good word to say about Jags). The fuel consumption is miserly. I drive the way I do because I get paid a 'mileage rate'. Non Jaguar people just don't get it. They think all Jaguars are gas guzzlers. Their ignorance gives us more to choose from.

Sorry to be so late with a reply, but I had the same problem until I took the changer out, stripped the case off it, carefully cleaned it out and put some v small amounts (a smear) of thin oil on the working parts. Put it back together, re-fitted it and it hasn't missed a beat since. Before that, I'd had a disc jam in the changer and the read out kept telling me that a fault had occurred, or no disc! really annoying. It is well worth sitting at the kitchen table with a set of tiny screw drivers and a camera to recall your last move. The changers aren't as tricky as you might think.