JOE-DOT-COM

hi its changed now, you could order items off there printed by them cheers Joe

hi paul if you go on thingiverse theres loads of 3d printer files https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:62154 and I think you can order them off there cheers Joe

hi have they tried heat, heat will soften the lock tight on the splines I used the type in the pic below, worked well for me, cheap pullers dont always work, the seals pop real easy, I use a sykes pickavant hydraulic rams and its been superb for years

hi lots of video's on youtube, worth watching a few to get a good a idea cheers Joe https://youtu.be/WhlnDdiujY0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WhlnDdiujY0

hi The drive shaft spline ia locktighted into the hub you will need a 10 ton puller, thats what I used get some pressure on the puller, then I used a soft drift, some aluminium bar and hit the driveshaft behind the hub, on the angled bit, dont hit the abs ring, as it will damage it, I gave it 2 good blows, then turned the driveshaft 90 degrees and kept going, after a good few blows, the tensioned dropped on the puller, apply more pressure on the puller and keep going till it comes off. cheers Joe

hi seen a few forsale in the past very expensive to fit and unless its a long term keeper, is it worth it for what you save on fuel, is only going to cost you later on, lpg cars are known to cause valve problems cheers Joe

hi if its the mechanical needles like on the 2010 models, they have bulbs that can be replaced if its lcd, then its a repair job do you have a pic if its the same as 2010, I may have instructions cheers Joe

HI Modern cars don't have chokes any more or even a choke enrichment injector choke is provided by all the injectors, as they are slightly richer, when running from cold, controlled by a cold engine map if you check, there are only the injectors, no choke injector, cars have not had choke injector for over 20 years now, due to cost, cats and emissions, they not a very accurate way to add fuel problem with most warranties is they are not worth the paper there written on, you have to check the warranty book before making the claim you will know for next time, either way though, they should pay up, as the injector still failed, irrelevant of whether it was on first start up or mid driving, it still failed usually the main dealer warranties are the only good ones, but they cost the most cheers Joe

hi off that description, which is pretty vague, could be anything and the two may not even be connected you need to get it checked at a garage, drive shaft could be just a failed cv joint and its fell apart, second hand drives shaft are a plenty on ebay and not that expensive you could try jaguar auto reserve, had parts from there and are very good and reasonably priced https://www.autoreservejaguar.com/ as for the gearbox fault warning, you need to get it plugged in, could be something as simple as a abs sensor or low battery cheers Joe

hi might be worth getting it plugged in to see if theres any fault codes that might help you hav'nt said what engine in it if its petrol, first place I'd start is basic service, air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs, and also oil and oil filter would be sensible, if its a v6 petrol, rear plugs dont get always changed as there more awkward than the front, but insist on all 6 changed if its a diesel, same again basic service, but theres a lot more things go wrong on the diesel, but diagnostic plug in might show some codes to point you in the right direction cheers Joe

hi its a blank pin, stop water ingress, connection not used cheers Joe

hi great cars , but the diesel don't like short runs, they can be trouble some if only run short miles due to dpf's but they do like long runs, keep a regular eye on oil level, biggest killer of the diesel is diesel in the engine oil, which kills the engine, first symptoms are oil level rising good ones will give plenty of smiles per miles brake servo is another common fault cheers Joe

hi if it a new led sealed unit, then its a complete mew light unless it comes apart, then theres electronics repair shops you can take it to for repair its only going be a dry joint on one of the soldered components, its all depends if you can get in it without destroying it cheers Joe

hi Alan Have this list of recomended Jaguar garages off another forum, have a look to see if theres any body near you cheers Joe Recommended Jaguar specialists-converted.pdf

found this also cheers Joe I have now successfully replaced the bonnet release cable on my Jaguar V6 3L X350 RHD. I took some photos during the replacement process and have recorded below the actions taken to replace it for the benefit of anyone else contemplating the task. NOTE: This process is for replacing the bonnet release cable on a RHD model. Replacement of the cable on a LHD model is similar, but the brake servo on a LHD model is where the cabin pollen filter box is on the RHD model. If you have a LHD model look at Zazzy's very helpful instructions here: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-cable-153012/ Tools & Parts Required For The Task Described New Bonnet Release Cable (Jaguar Part No C2C34776 - Photo 1) Socket Set with 8mm, 10mm & 13mm sockets Torx 30 bit Various Screwdrivers Electric Drill & Drill Bits Sharp Cold Chisel (about 15mm) Hammer Stanley Knife, or similar Fish Wire (I used the copper conductor of 2.5 sq mm twin & earth cable) Grease to lubricate new cable Replacement Procedure 1. Open the bonnet and remove the Radiator Cover Trim (Photo2), which is held in place by six fixings. 2. Photo 3 shows the Radiator Cover Trim removed and the main engine bay components referred to in this procedure. 3. Although not strictly necessary, I removed the front chrome grille to give much better access to the two bonnet release catches 4. Remove the Top Radiator Bracket (LH) (Photo 4), which is fixed with three bolts. 5. Photo 5 shows the Top Radiator Bracket (LH) removed and the Bonnet Release Catch Cover prised away. NOTE: It is not necessary to prise the cover away in this manner - I did it to gain access to the release catch when my bonnet was stuck in the closed position. 6. Photo 6 shows one of the two riveted clips (Point A in Photo) that secures the bonnet release cable in the engine bay. This rivet also acts as one of three fixings for the Bonnet Release Catch Cover. This riveted clip puts a sharp bend on the Bonnet Release Cable and is best removed. Access to the rivet head is severely restricted by the radiator, but you can get to the back of the rivet from the top. I used a sharp 15mm cold chisel and hammer to cut off the back of the rivet, which then allowed the clip and Bonnet Release Catch Cover to be removed. I decided at this point not to replace the Bonnet Release Cover when re-assembling. 7. Prior to removing the two bonnet release catches, it is worth marking their exact location to assist re-alignment when re-assembling. In my case the re-alignment was easy, because there was no paint where the catch had to be located. Remove the left Bonnet Release Catch by removing the two fixing bolts, but be careful not to drop the bolts, or the part that the fixing bolts screw into. Disengage the Bonnet Release Cable from the left Bonnet Release Catch. 8. Remove the right Bonnet Release Catch by removing the two fixing bolts and remove the Bonnet Open Sensor Switch. Disengage the Bonnet Release Cable from the right Bonnet Release Catch. Photo 7 shows the right Bonnet Release Catch removed from its fixings and with the Bonnet Open Sensor Switch removed; but with the cable still connected. 9. Completely Remove the Air Filter Box (Location shown in Photo 3) 10. Loosen the Power Steering Reservoir Fixing Bolt (Photo 😎 and carefully move the reservoir a little to give clear visibility of the area beneath it. This is where the second of the two riveted clips (Photo 9) securing the Bonnet Release Cable in the engine bay is located. 11. Using an electric drill and suitable drill bit, drill the head of the rivet (Photo 9) securing the clip, which is the last cable fixing in the engine bay. 12. The cable now goes under the Cabin Pollen Filter box and through the bulkhead, but don't be tempted to pull the Bonnet Release Cable outat this stage. 13. It is now necessary to completely remove the Cabin Pollen Filter box, as described in steps 14 - 17 below. 14. Mark, or measure, the wiper arm locations to enable correct replacement. Remove the two wiper arms by popping of the two wiper armfixings covers (Photo 2); removing the two fixing nuts; then carefully prise off the wiper arms. 15. Remove the plastic panel fixings securing the Cowl Vent (Photo 3) to enable the Cowl to be hinged back towards the windscreen - the Cowl does not need to be fully removed. Photo 10 shows the Cowl hinged up. 16. Remove the Cabin Pollen Filter. Photo 10 shows the Cabin Pollen Filter removed. 17. The Cabin Pollen Filter box comprises two parts and both must be completely removed. At first this appears near impossible, but if done in the correct order, and with a bit of fiddling, it works. Firstly, remove the four fixing nuts (Shown in Photo 11) securing the back part of the Cabin Pollen Filter box - Be careful not to drop the nuts. Lift the back box part out by turning it appropriately as you do so. Now remove the front part of the Cabin Pollen Filter box by removing the fixing bolt (Shown in Photo 12) securing it. Lift the front box part out in a similar manner to the back box part. 18. With the Cabin Pollen Filter box now fully removed, it can be seen where the Bonnet Release Cable passes through the bulkhead into the cabin (Shown in Photo 13). 19. Move the front passenger seat as far back as it will go. 20. Remove the front passenger door sill trim (Photo 14) by pulling it up - don't be afraid to apply a little force - It is quite robust. 21. Remove the trim around the bonnet release handle (Photo14) by pulling it up at the back to clear the locating recess; and then straight back. 22. Disengage the Bonnet Release Cable from the Bonnet Release Handle. 23. Securely attach a suitable fish wire to the old Bonnet Release Catch (See Photo 15). 24. Cut off the Star-Profile shroud (Shown in Photo 15) around the Bonnet Release Cable outer with a Stanley knife, or similar. This will make it much easier to pull the old cable through the bulkhead. 25. Carefully pull the old Bonnet Release Cable into the engine bay until you can get enough of the Fish Wire to work with. If you have cut off the Star-Profile Shroud as recommended in 24 above, the cable should pull through easily. If it feels tight, it may be snagged on something, so check before pulling too hard. 26. At this stage, I applied some grease to the new cable where the inner cable entered the various parts of the outer sheath. 27. Disengage the old Bonnet Release cable from the Fish Wire and securely attach the cabin end of the new cable to the Fish Wire. 28. Carefully pull the Fish Wire back into the cabin until you have enough of the new cable to locate in the Bonnet Release Handle. The cable should pull quite easily. If it feels tight, it may be snagged on something, so check before pulling too hard. 29 Apply a little Washing up liquid, or similar, to the cone-shaped grommet to help it fit properly into the hole in the bulkhead. 30. Route the new Bonnet Release Cable along the same route as the old cable, but don't bother with the two riveted clips that were previously removed. I ensured that there were no tight bends in the route of the cable and used a few nylon zip ties to secure the new cable along its route. 31. Engage the new cable with the two Bonnet Release catches and fit the Bonnet Open Sensor Switch back into the right Bonnet Release Catch. 32. Fix the two Bonnet Release Catches back into position, re-aligning them with either the original paint marks, or with the marks made in Step 7 above. 33. Attach the cabin end of the Bonnet Release Cable to the Bonnet Release Handle and its cable stay. 34. Leave the bonnet open, in case there are any issues, and close the two Bonnet Release Catches manually. Test that the operation of the Bonnet Release Handle opens the two catches freely and without issue. It is worth trying this a few times to ensure all is OK before closing the bonnet and trying it a few times more. 35. If all is well with testing the bonnet opening, put everything back in place that has been removed. 36. Once everything is back in place, test the bonnet again and make sure it opens and closes correctly. You may have to make some minor adjustments to the position of either, or both, of the Bonnet Release Catches if they have not been put back in the exact previous positions. It took me 4 hours to do all of the above, but about half of that was spent working out what to do and how to remove the Cabin Pollen Filter box. Having now successfully completed the task, I estimate that it would take about two hours for a competent DIY mechanic to do the job. Finally, I would like to thank all those who repliedto my original post; and Zazzy for his very helpful post, which gave me the inspiration to tackle the job in the first place. Attached Thumbnails

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hi found this on another site, dont know wheather it helps but here it is This is a UK RHD X350, so all references are to a RHD model. LHD models may be different. I managed to open the bonnet as follows:- The car has the standard chrome effect front grille with horizontal louvres. The two louvre panels are held in place by two deep locating lugs on the bottom edge and five small locating lugs along the top edge. By using two thin bladed screwdrivers, or similar, it is quite easy to remove the two panels. Close inspection of the louvre panels will show there is a small gap around their perimeter, where a thin blade can be inserted. I inserted one screwdriver in the gap immediately above one of the two vertical bars; and another screwdriver in the gap immediately above the other vertical bar. Applying gentle downward pressure to both screwdrivers resulted in the louvre panel popping out at the top; after that the louvre panels can be lifted out. With both louvre panels removed from the grille I could see the two bonnet catch locking mechanisms. The one on the drivers side was uncovered and it was easy to apply finger pressure on the operating lever (where the cable release nipple locates) and release the driver side catch. The passenger side catch locking mechanism was covered by a metal enclosure (maybe something to do with security); and there was an electrical device (turned out to be a switch) plugged into the bottom of the catch locking mechanism. Both the metal enclosure and the switch prevented me from getting access to the catch operating lever, as I had done on the driver side. On the left side (viewed from front) of the metal enclosure there is a dome headed T30 Torx fixing, which can be easily removed. The metal enclosure is fixed by more than one fixing, but once this one is removed, the metal enclosure can be prised aside to get access to the passenger side catch locking mechanism. At this stage, it may be possible to remove the switch fitted to the bottom of the catch locking mechanism. However, I could not remove it easily and did not want to damage it. Instead, I removed the two 10mm hex headed fixings that secure the catch locking mechanism to the chassis. Once removed, I was able to easily detach the electrical switch from it and operate the little locking lever, which released the passenger side catch and enabled the bonnet to be opened fully. On inspection, it appears that the bonnet release cable goes from the bonnet release handle in the cabin to the passenger side bonnet catch locking mechanism; and then to the driver side bonnet catch locking mechanism. In my case the bonnet release cable appears to have snapped somewhere between the bonnet release handle and the passenger side catch locking mechanism. cheers Joe

hi also have a look here lots of info http://www.jagrepair.com/ cheers Joe

hi have a look on sng site https://www.sngbarratt.com/uk/#!/English/FindParts/Families cheers Joe

hi sounds like a dodgy brake servo, was a very common fault on the S-type Diesels same engines and servos used in a lot of xf's worth checking the vacuum hoses as well, just in case ones split the S-type servos that fail, get contaminated with oil, which causes the diaphragm to fail cheers Joe

hi do you mean turbo boost solenoid, not sure they have one, or do you mean turbo electronic actualtors, which control the boost pressure these can fail or the actuator mechanism stick dues to carbon build up do you have a fault code, that will tell you where to look cheers Joe

hi, I think on jaguar fixed price servicing its £625 https://www.jaguar.co.uk/owners/servicing-maintenance/fixed-price-servicing.html maybe cheaper at a indy, but you wont get genuine parts I'd prefer pay the extra for genuine parts my self cheers Joe

hi all you need is here http://www.jagrepair.com/ cheers Joe

hi not seen any where thats does refurbed headlights for Jaguars its just as easy do yourself, I did mine on my S-type and its a very similar procedure on the X-type only takes a few hours, common fault is the adjuster break and the light go droopy and only light just in front of the car, better adjuster available on ebay they come apart quite easy just pop them in the oven on about 80 to 100 deg for 10 mins, then the black, blue tak type sealer goes soft and they just pull apart, once there unclipped once the cleaned, new adjuster fitted and rebuilt, use a scotch 3m headlight restore kit to polish the lenses so they look like new theres videos on youtube show the procedure on X-type lights cheers Joe

hi yes noticed it myself, the top and lower rails have a designed split in them I think its there for if you have a slight bump, it allows the radiator to bend without splitting will give it a bit more strenght cheers Joe