JOE-DOT-COM

hi use "VEHICLE SMART" its on android and very good for mot history or you can check on https://cazana.com/uk cheers Joe

hi only way to know for sure is get it plugged into Jaguar IDS/SDD, which will tell you the fault if theres a fault it defaults to hard setting, if its got cats suspension, usually green shocks if you disconected a shocker with ignition on usually gives a fault, but not sure if on your model they self reset or not only way to know is get it plugged in cheers Joe

HI FOR £500 i WOULD NOT EXPECT MUCH Would definitely check the sills for rot as there can completely rot away, there hidden with plastic covers service history and make sure every thing works for that price, if its got 12 month mot, I would not expect it to last the 12 month check mot history with app like vehicle smart to check for any nastys on previous mot's but for £500 would not expect much cheers Joe

Hi the gap in the radiator I think had been put there so if you have a bump the radiator will bend and twist, with out bursting now you've reinforced it odds are it would just rip it self apart new radiator going to last 10 years plus even with out been reinforced, toyed with the idea with my new radiator, but ended leaving it as it was designed, there must be a reason it was done cheers Joe

hi saw this https://www.jaginfo.org/threads/amber-water-in-fuel-refer-to-owners-handbook-message-2010-xf-s-3-0.102560/ cheers Joe

Hi Peter Diesels are known for eating batteries, especially if used on short runs the glow plugs take so much out the battery and if only taken on a short run, whats was taken out on starting is not put back in, in charge and eventually the battery get lower and lower worth mentioning just for a bit extra money, AGM batteries are far superior, with more cranking amps and recharge quicker if your not going be doing many miles, may be worth buying a ctek charger and topping the battery up once a week I use ctek chargers on two of my cars, my mitsubishi battery is over 13 years old now and the battery on my Jaguar looks to be original, but both run on the good stuff "petrol" cheers Joe

hi yes wheel would have to be removed and yes some screws and plastic clips this one should be ok to jump start cheers Joe

drivers front wheel well, behind the red post, is where your feet are, you would have to remove the wheel arch liner cheers Joe

hi if you open the bonnet and then open the fuse box, there some exposed brass parts, that is usually enough to get the boot to pop but you talking of putting the ignition on to get it out of park, dont if that will work there one connection in the drivers front wheel arch, pic below cheers Joe

hi as with most modern car, can usually only be done with software if you have just had i serviced take it back, it part of the service to reset it cheers Joe

hi most modern cars are like that, as they use hid lights for dip if hid light go off the have to start up again, so are left on continuous features like that are not programable cheers Joe

hi some clutches need special tools for setting them just wondering if this is the case here cheers Joe https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tp5KeAQntGM

hi here some info cheers joe

Hi depends on model, post a pic up of the front of your car there should be plenty of these on ebay cheers Joe

hi, I'd more than likely a faulty module and a sensor damp in the boot causes modules to fail Plug A is a aux power socket, for accessories like a tracker plug B is for transit relay, only used when new for shipping and transporting, isolates the battery, when keys are removed and is also "missing lead", drivers side, by battery, is a aux socket, with a earth, permanent 12v and a switch 12v cheers Joe

hi could be one of many things you need to get it plugged in and see what the fault codes say cheers Joe

https://3dprintdirect.co.uk/

hi its changed now, you could order items off there printed by them cheers Joe

hi paul if you go on thingiverse theres loads of 3d printer files https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:62154 and I think you can order them off there cheers Joe

hi have they tried heat, heat will soften the lock tight on the splines I used the type in the pic below, worked well for me, cheap pullers dont always work, the seals pop real easy, I use a sykes pickavant hydraulic rams and its been superb for years

hi lots of video's on youtube, worth watching a few to get a good a idea cheers Joe https://youtu.be/WhlnDdiujY0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WhlnDdiujY0

hi The drive shaft spline ia locktighted into the hub you will need a 10 ton puller, thats what I used get some pressure on the puller, then I used a soft drift, some aluminium bar and hit the driveshaft behind the hub, on the angled bit, dont hit the abs ring, as it will damage it, I gave it 2 good blows, then turned the driveshaft 90 degrees and kept going, after a good few blows, the tensioned dropped on the puller, apply more pressure on the puller and keep going till it comes off. cheers Joe

hi seen a few forsale in the past very expensive to fit and unless its a long term keeper, is it worth it for what you save on fuel, is only going to cost you later on, lpg cars are known to cause valve problems cheers Joe

hi if its the mechanical needles like on the 2010 models, they have bulbs that can be replaced if its lcd, then its a repair job do you have a pic if its the same as 2010, I may have instructions cheers Joe

HI Modern cars don't have chokes any more or even a choke enrichment injector choke is provided by all the injectors, as they are slightly richer, when running from cold, controlled by a cold engine map if you check, there are only the injectors, no choke injector, cars have not had choke injector for over 20 years now, due to cost, cats and emissions, they not a very accurate way to add fuel problem with most warranties is they are not worth the paper there written on, you have to check the warranty book before making the claim you will know for next time, either way though, they should pay up, as the injector still failed, irrelevant of whether it was on first start up or mid driving, it still failed usually the main dealer warranties are the only good ones, but they cost the most cheers Joe