JOE-DOT-COM

hi I would imagine 90mm is standard, 88.9mm will allow for refurb on the cv/driveshaft, usually only way to get them fit correct it to have it skimmed in a lathe, down to the 88.9mm, I would assume cheers Joe

hi from the handbook 235-50-17 are oe fittment 245-45-17 are ok, but are a sportier drive more for handling, these will give a harsher ride cheers joe

hi go to this link and see what the difference is https://tiresize.com/comparison/ cheers Joe

hi Id try finding a socket that will knock on tight try imperial ones as well, 12 point sockets might work better on that type cheers Joe

HI Post a picture up of the wheel nuts/locks cheers Joe

Hi Another common problem is dual mass flywheel does the engine sound noisey/ vibrate when you rev it, they usually go quiet when you press the clutch if its an auto, then it not this cheers Joe

Hi There usually quite easy you press and hold the handbrake switch down, with the handbrake off and then switch the ignition off and remove the key this will keep the handbrake off then remove the old pads, you need to wind the brake piston back then, so new pads will go in, use something like a brake cube to wind the piston, when the new pads are in, I try to adjust the piston so there no excess play slack and the disc is not binding once both side are done, you just disconnect the car battery, this clears the epb memory and when you switch the ignition on, it will ask you to apply epb, press the brake pedal lightly and apply the epb thats it job done just check you have the stereo code first before disconnecting the battery, if you know your way around the car, you can disconnect the epb module in the boot, which is the same as disconnecting the battery, but you dont have to put your code in the stereo or reset the one touch for the windows, but in unsure just go with disconnecting the battery cheers Joe Battery reset.pdf

Hi Servo's are known to fail on the S-types But if your pedal is going all the way down, it will be the master cylinder and while its off, check the servo, they are known to fail, through crrosion and brake fluid leaking into it cheers Joe

Hi As long as the first part is the same it will be ok, the last two letters are usually the version the higher the letter the newer it is, "A" been older and "F" been newer some may need programing, if its not from a similar spec car cheers Joe

Hi read page 4 and 5 on this doc https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/676700/in-service-exhaust-emission-standards-for-road-vehicles-19th-edition.pdf cheers

Hi I thought cats were not mandatory on vehicles till 1992, 1991 cars did not have them so your car does not need cats, it should have the non cat emmisions test, which it should sail through how far out are your emmisions cheers Joe

Hi auto faults can often be caused by faulty abs sensors, gearbox relies on abs sensors to work correct You need to get plugged in with Jaguar IDS/SDD, generic code readers will only read engine faults and nothing else Its usually a sensor fault or failure cheers Joe

hi why not just mot it, you will sell it a lot easier cheers Joe

Hi Yes it was and the car was at JLR classics the other weekend cheers Joe

Hi Went to the Jaguar Breakfast Club today at the JLR Classics Very good morning, some Very rare Jaguar's, Lots of development cars, Just a few I can think of XJS with AJ6 twin turbo and 4 wheel drive, Jaguar X-type R, Some F-types with strange carbon Fibre rear wings, Famous Iron Maiden Drummer refurbished XJ6 and many other great cars, Lots of E-type, D-types and XJ220's Any way took lots of pics and made a slideshow cheers Joe

HI If you have banks 1 and 2, then its common to both somewhere between maf and inlet manifold, a air leak, because its unmetered the engine can't compensate for it Check the flexi pipe after the maf and any other pipe attached to the inlet manifold, like cam cover breathers cheers Joe

Hi I have a 2004 S-type R, super smooth V8 and 400bhp, goes superb Never fails to put a smile on my face, every time I use it Its also very smooth and very comfortable, silky smooth Ive had the car over 3 years now and apart from servicing, which I do my self, it not cost me a penny, never had any issues what so ever I bought mine with full Jaguar service history and my only worry was sills, the dealer let me remove the sill covers for inspection and they were like new Its also gone up in value since I've bought it as well Its also worth having them "krown rust treated" to give them long term protection and its also guaranteed cheers Joe

Hi Some additive are ok in basic stuff like engine's but using additives in auto boxes are really a no no, most additive's are friction reducers and you dont want that in a gearbox, it can cause the friction plates to slip and also most auto gearboxes have a lockup clutch in the torque convertor, you don't want this to slip either additives are also no good in gearboxes with LSD's in and I recommend just using descent oils, I use Castrol edge proffesional in mine and Genuine ZF oil in the gear box, Castrol Again in the diff cheers Joe

Hi Try disconnecting the batter for a short time and reconnecting make sure you have the stereo code if needed cheers Joe

hi looks like you have a late type all earlier auto's and manuals were screw on knowing jaguar there bonded on and may not be a serviceble part might be the whole mechanism maybe some will know on here cheers Joe

Hi I assume there the same as the S-type and should screw on and off there a chrome tapered piece underneath which acts like a lock nut I changed mine and it took some taking off as it had locktight on it, which made it tight to remove, but eventually cam off cheers Joe

hi manufactures give different time/mileage, due to different stresses the engine creates on the belt a timing belt on a 4 cylinder 8 valve engine is going to be under less stress than say a 6 cylinder 24 valve engine as for the water pump, as a general rule, if its driven by the cambelts, should be replaced at the same time as the timing belt, same with all bearing idlers and bearing tensioners on the timing belt cheers Joe

Hi Wont be a valve's due to over heat, if anything its going to be head gasket before you tackle it, do a compression test, if the compression on all the cylinders is the same, it could be electrical still when hoses pop, water can get every and into connectors and can take some drying out, because antifreeze wont dry and will give you problems get a comprssion test done first cheers Joe

hi I'm sure thats a no pre facelift are completely different pre 2002 cars were all hard wired for sound, post 2002 cars sound was fibre optic cheers Joe

Hi there still on the SNG Barratt site, but, and there is a but, there £744, not cheap I'd look on ebay, see if you can get a used one, or even better try a local breaker cheers Joe