JOE-DOT-COM

hi the only other way is to plug in with jaguar diagnostic software which would show up a fault cheers Joe

HI A plug in with diagnostic software will show if there any faults but a faulty lambda sensor will throw the emissions out, theres usually 2 lambdas, a fault code will tell you which one it is cheers Joe

Hi Usually caused by a low battery, put it on charge overnight should cure it Cheers Joe

hi the only cure usually is to disconnect the battery, which should reset everything that would be the first thing I would try cheers Joe

hi if your car has self leveling lights, then it already has hid lights the self leveling was fitted to cars with hid lights and yes your right if your car has self leveling lights, if you unplug the headlight with the battery connected, the self leveling will stop working and can only be reset with jaguar software IDS/SDD also any bulb or light fitted with a color over 4200k is illegal, if you get a awkward copper, but most mot station will pass anything, hid to be 100% legal should be self leveling and have headlight washer fitted, but I've fitted loads to cars and never had any issues, with mot's or police https://www.powerbulbs.com/blog/2013/09/are-blue-car-bulbs-legal personally I prefer the HID's, but every one has there own preference , I don't think the LED's have the reliability yet, the led are fine, the power supply part is the weak link, also high power led's generate quite a bit of heat, if there not cooled, they fail, so that means either large daft heat sinks or tapes or fans are fitted on the back, you cant usually put the rear cover/grommet back on to seal the headlight either, so means your headlight is open to the elements, which end up get dirt inside and condensation cheers Joe

Hi When I had my STR, it had a drain, not as bad as yours though mine ended been a jaguar tracker, hidden in the boot, must of come with the car from new but there was no reference to it in the paperwork I had, I just removed it and it cured my problem, it had a backup battery attached to it, that had gone duff due to age, causing excessive drain on the battery cheers Joe

hi never done any thing on the E-type my self, but have seen on other forums most people seem to take the whole sub frame suspension out, as its suppose to be quicker also seen a lot of people who alter the pipes, to the caliper, so a remote bleed nipple can be added on the cradle, so its easy accessible, the original bleed nipples are in a awkward place cheers Joe

hi you can remove them and blank them, but you get no benefits also you have to leave the egr there and plugged in, otherwise you get lots of engine management faults best option is to get them cleaned and leave them there as there usually not much trouble, if you get lots of trouble with them its usually other issues like, burning engine oil, will coke them up and give problems cheers Joe

hi have a look at the battery reset, right at the top, tells you how to get the stereo back on without a code cheers Joe Battery reset.pdf

hi these guys do a rubber strip for it http://www.car-hood.co.uk/rubber-boot-luggage-runner-strip cheers Joe

hi battery is the culprit of a lot of issues on the S-type, so you might be lucky but could be a stiff hand brake cable have a look in the boot, a wet boot, can make all the electronics play up in there, as theres a lot of electronics in the boot, which include the EPB module for the parking brake cheers Joe

hi SNG do them are these it https://www.sngbarratt.com/uk/#!/English/FindParts/Families/XKE ~2F E-Type/3/12/585/15887/17210/1/10/1/viewassembly/24338/:BOOT BOARDS & FITTINGS items 10 and 3 are the chrome strips and items 2 and 9 are the rubber strips not cheap though, but I dont think any thing is now on the E-type, since prices have soared cheers Joe

hi Adrian do you have any picture of what your after cheers Joe

hi yes there are 2 belts, both need doing, one cam belt front and other is fuel pump at the rear dealer or general workshop, but I don't think there's much difference in price s jaguar do it as a fixed price and I would prefer genuine parts if it not much dearer thinks it costs £375 at jaguar http://www.rybrook.warrington.jaguar.co.uk/ownership/jaguar-3-plus-fixed-price-servicing-and-maintenance cheers Joe

HI Have your tried david manners or sng barratt cheers Joe

hi you wont find a switched live feed for reverse, the jaguar s-type uses switched negatives, a permanent 12 volts feed goes to the bulb, then the rear control module switches the negative/earth to bring the light on you will need to do the same with the camera, take 12v to the red of the camera supply and then take the black to the reverse light also each rear light cluster has 2 12 volts feeds to each cluster cheers Joe

hi abs sensor failure can cause lots of problems on some gearboxes some gearboxes rely on abs sensors for speed reference and can make them very irregular and jerky gear changes I would start with fixing the abs first cheers Joe

Hi When I bought my STR, the dealer let me put it on the ramp, the bottom fixing on the covers, come out there the type below, and come out quite easy if you find the correct fitting screwdriver once the bottom fixing are out the cover will move out enough to look at the bottom of the sill and feel for solid metal a descent dealer wont mind cheers joe

HI looking at yours, it may not have the zf gearbox look at the J-gate gearchange, if it only goes from 2 to 4 on the left hand side then its a 5 speed and not the zf the zf box on the left goes from 2 to 5 on the left of the j-gate if its the 5 speed then normal atf can be used and parts are cheaper as a rule cheers Joe JF506E_UPDATE.pdf Jaguar Workshop Manual X-Type 2001-2009.pdf

hi you can put your vin number in on jaguar topix and the cars spec should come up is it a 5 speed or 6 speed cheers Joe

hi if its the ZF 6HP26, you need special oil, it has to be ZF Lifeguard 6 you can't use normal ATF the TCM for the gearbox, is actually inside the gearbox, submersed in oil, using the wrong oil will damage it also the gearbox holds nearly 11 litres of oil, dropping the sump/filter will only drop about 6.5 litres ,the rest stays inside the Torque converter, so mixing oils is also not a good idea thanks joe ZF - TechServiceMan.pdf ZF6HP26_Transmission.pdf

hi from that fault sound like the solenoid is faulty according to the code open circuit, there different colors you need to find out which one it is I take it its the ZF 6HP26 also the solenoids can be changed by just removing the sump/filter removing the sump/filter will also give you a idea of the condition, if oil is clean they can be bought off ebay individual or in sets, either genuine or aftermarket cheers Joe

Hi and Happy new year!!!

hi if you use the search bar, this is quite a common question and always pops up most important sills, sills can completely rot away, there hidden under a plastic cover, so cant be seen easily, but if the rear arches have bubbles, there most likely the sill are gone, as in completely gone, don't matter what year, there completely random check for knocking and banging from the suspension, theirs loads of suspension bushes front and back, if driven hard these can fail, should be silky smooth drive check all tires are worn even, uneven Tyre wear usually means worn bushes or rear tie rods front and rear doors, check front and rear vertical seam on the inside of the door, they start to corrode first there, looks like spiders under the paint where the seam sealer is, front of front door is hidden under a plastic trim, this just pulls off and slides up out of the way check every thing works all the electrics, check abs, engine management, air bag lights, light up on the dash and go out, seen lots of these led's removed or taped over check fuse box and boot well for water, they leak in around the rear lights and can cause fuse box, rear reverse module and other modules to fail. check all the keys supplied fit and work on the car, because its got a second key, dont assume it fits and works ifs it got electronic parking brake, test it at least a dozen times, these also fail regular also use a app like "VEHICLE SMART" which will give you its old mot history and advisories, lots of corrosion advisories is usually a bad sign, also you can check all its old mot mileage history on the same app take it for a good run and let it idle for a good while, some are known to have overheating issues, with faulty thermostats, clogged radiators or even failed head gaskets service history is always nice as well, looked after examples will all ways come with a pile of receipts its also worth checking the headlights as well,if there normal halogen, then you can adjust the height of the beam on the dash, operate the switch and make sure they go up and down, the adjuster inside go brittle and break, you can buy replacement adjuster, but you have to remove the bumper, to remove the headlights, if its got HID lights, when you switch the ignition on, the lights go up and down and then self level, every time you switch the ignition on, adjusters in these also fail and if you unplug the headlights with the battery connected, you need jaguar software to reset them and they wont self level till they are reset also worth checking the oil level, check its under, not well over, diesels have a tendency as they get older, get leaky injectors, that can weep when the engine not running , seep past the rings and raise the engine oil level if I was looking I would also only buy a completely standard one, chipped ones offer more power, the standard unit is plenty powerful enough and tuned ones are known to snap crankshafts cheers Joe

Hi The 5 amp one is plenty good enough for keeping it charged and tip top the Genuine Jaguar one is only a 3.8 amp and Ive never had any issues with mine, keeps it spot on all year round cheers Joe