JOE-DOT-COM

Hi Same thing, you just driving the epb motor the other way, You need to check that the epb is working first, operate it manually like in the video with 12volts could be your calipers have gone stiff, remove cables and check calipers levers operate smoothly and are not seized check your cable are free and operate smoothly and with the cables off the calipers, check the epb operates smoothly, by operating the epb motor as in the video it will give a fault if the epb cannot reach a teached position for home hand brake released, if the epb cannot reach a teach position hand brake applied, if its slow reaching either position, if the epb motor goes over or under current and if the epb voltage is less than approx 10.2 volts if any thing is stiff, cables or calipers or epb, the epb will come up with a fault, the fault can be cleared just by unplugging the epb module in the boot, also shown in the video if the your operate the epb, with 12volts as in video, best way is with back wheels off the ground , if it apply's and realeses, locks both back wheels applying 12volts one way and releases, back wheel spin freely, 12 volts the other way, it could be a faulty module make sure you battery is fully charged, a low battery will give you many epb faults, also make sure the engine is running while you do any testing or moving the epb, or it will flatten your battery quickly also if its only intermitent, check the connector on the epb, make sure the connectors are not corroded, corroded connections with effect motor operation and motor position faults cheers Joe

Hi Jojo This is a common fault and this topic pops up regular have a look here http://www.jaguarownersclub.com/forums/topic/14848-electronic-brake-lock-up/#comment-45540 cheers Joe

Hi are these any good cheers Joe 1999 XJ X308 Vehicle Care Handbook.pdf 1999 XJ8 owners manual.pdf Jaguar_XJ_2001_Audio_System_Handbook.pdf Jaguar_XJ_2001_Vehicle_Care_Handbook Supplement.pdf

Hi Best way is to take it off You want some carburetor cleaner, its like a spray solvent give it a good clean and scrape, then use the carburetor cleaner make sure the ports are clean and dont switch the ignition on whilst its disconnect, or it will throw up errors cheers Joe

Hi Common problem, usually the shaft for the wiper, water seeps into the bush and causes it to corrode and go stiff, get some wd40 on it and when it frees off, put some oil on it Cheers Joe

Hi and welcome Post some pics up of the new car cheers Joe

Hi Stix Ebay is about the best place for choice and prices just have a good look and don't buy the first one you see cheers Joe

Hi When does it exactly make the noise Thrust bearing will make a noise when you press the clutch pedal only, also a noisy thrust bearing can usually be felt through the clutch pedal when pressed dual mass flywheel can make various noises, usually a continuous noise when running/idling, can go quiet when revs are raised and some times they go quiet when you press the clutch to do either, the gearbox has to come off, so if you thinking of do any, both should be done at the same time, including the thrust bearing not sure if these do have a dual mass flywheel, but most diesels have, its a way of eliminating vibration on diesels but if you were thinking of changing the thrust bearing only, you have to remove the gearbox, so while it off, its a ten minute job to remove the clutch and check it and once you've removed the clutch, the dual mass flywheel is there right in front of you, just check it, basically the dual mass flywheel is made up of two parts, the centre and outer, between the two parts is filled with rubber, the rubber fails and perishes, so the outer becomes loose and will vibrate, it should be visable and you will feel movement in it if its starting to fail what year is your car, petrol or diesel, that might indicate whether it has a dual mass flywheel cheers Joe P.S. on your car the thrust bearing alone can't be changed, it has a concentric thrust bearing so pics and prices, these are a guess as not sure what engine you have https://www.britishparts.co.uk/products/10838-slave-cylinder-C2S46903 https://www.britishparts.co.uk/products/6120-flywheel-C2S27921 https://www.britishparts.co.uk/products/135156-clutch-kit-JDE4964

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Hi Could be one of many things possibly thermostat stuck closed, but with you saying fan kicks in, means radiator is also getting up to temp, so might not be thermostat I've known radiators to get blocked and sludged up, if the radiator/expansion tank water is clean and clear then its unlikely be that If there's any leaks, and the system won't hold any pressure, the system will overheat and boil over early, water boils at 100 deg C, but when you put water in a pressurised system, say at 1 bar, the water boiling point is raised to just above 120 deg C, most coolant caps are approx 1bar to 1.5bar, so the higher the pressure the higher the boiling point so check for any leaky hoses, radiator, rigid pipes to the heater valve and also the expansion tank, which is a common failure also if your handy with tools, do a compression test, I know its not the easiest job on the jaguar v6 petrol, as you have to remove the inlet manifold, as the left hand bank spark plugs are hidden by the inlet manifold, but a good, even pressure test on all cylinder, would eliminate head gasket failure, which is also another common problem on jaguar 2.5 and 3.0 v6's most garages can do a sniffer test or pressure test to check cooling system and head gasket, sniffer test check for CO ( carbon monoxide ) in expansion bottle, CO in there means head gasket gone, Pressure test just pressurizes the system and then you wait to see if it drop off, if it does leak in the system or headgasket cheers Joe

hi could be a hose, water pump or the expansion tank usually if there's a small hole in any rigid steel pipework or radiator, radweld will seal it but it wont work on rubber pipes or a leaky seal on the waterpump the expansion tank is a common failure as well cheers Joe

Hi Did you get a discount for being in a club I have never been asked before, If I have been a member of any club cheers Joe

Hi you could sell it, sell the tyre and throw in the wheel for free, then there's no come backs personally, I would never buy a repaired wheel, If it let go at speed, it could be the end of you also these days with where's there's a blame, there's a claim, culture, I don't think I'd be 100% happy selling it cheers Joe

Hi It either unclips from the pads or it unplugs behind the wheel arch liner you'll know for sure when you get the new pads the wheel arch liners do come out quite easy, I have to remove the passenger side one, on my S-type R when changing the fuel filter cheers Joe

hi there should be a connector behind the wheel just unplug it have a look here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=13arR0ssxIo cheers Joe

Hi worth a try, make sure you don't switch the ignition on with the gearbox disconnected, as it will throw up loads of faults make sure none of the terminals are corroded, if they are try clean them with a fine slat blade screw driver this will work on the 5 speed but not the 6 speed, 6 speed has the ECU built into the gearbox cheers Joe

Hi There been a few that have had a similar fault, ended up being tyres Try swapping the front with the rear and see if it shifts cheers Joe

HI Steve I think thats normal, Mine similar to that, when you switch the ignition off, you still get power to the control modules on the car, for about 10 mins, then the 12v go off I noticed this on mine when I changed some of my side light bulbs and number plate bulbs for led bulbs when I switch the ignition off, the led stay lit, very dim for about 10 mins, these cars use a permanent feed to every thing, then you switch the earth through each control module to earth, to bring the item on I noticed, they keep a very slight voltage on most things like bulbs and relays, to monitor there health, this will be the approx 3 amps for that short time and 15 millamps is quite good for leakage Mines the same after about 2 weeks it starts to drain, so if you have a 90 AH battery, your battery should last 90AH / 0.15mA = 600 hr / 24 = 25 days I used a Jaguar CTEK charger on mine, its keeps the battery tip top, I also have a ctek charger on my Mitsubishi, when its not in use, another summer car and the battery on that is just coming up to 10 years old my S-type has a charge socket in the boot, when I put it in the garage I open the boot and plug in the charger, close the boot and thats it, it looks after the battery cheers Joe

Hi If it was working ok before the sender repair, then its got to be the sender or wiring If the sender was wired incorrect, then it would read wrong I'd take it back and get it checked, where the repair was done on some cars, when fitting new senders, they need recalibrating, but if your has the original one, just had the connector removed it should read the same I'm wondering if they got the wires mixed up when the removed the connector and fitted the crimps, sometimes the wires are all the same color and these could easily be mixed up and that would give the symptoms you mention cheers Joe

Hi Not sure about the XJ6, but my S-type the sat nav dvd goes in the boot you could eject it and see what year dvd you have there available on places like ebay to update the maps cheers Joe

Hi Yes , you can drop on some bargains on ebay, just don't buy the first one you see, have a good look you get some people on there that break cars as well and will send you pics of parts on request I've had some cracking deals on parts in the past cheers Joe

Hi Just googled these and found them , some look good hope this helps cheers Joe XJS_help.pdf 92 XJS electrical.pdf 89 XJS Electrical.pdf XJS 1994 update.pdf XJS 1993 update.pdf Jaguar XJS to 1991.pdf

Hi and welcome Post some pics up of your car Cheers Joe

Hi There a few online like British car parts, SNG, David manners. But if you want a bargain or better deal, just look on eBay Cheers Joe

Hi I try british car parts, just google british car parts Or even have a look on ebay, there usually cheaper on there cheers Joe