JOE-DOT-COM

Hi It does work, have a look here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pzg0rcMvypM Tell you what, that seat is close to the back tyre, sit back and its game over cheers oe

hi have a look here Bluetooth In-Car Telephone.pdf cheers Joe

Hi I bought one for my Mitsubishi and can recommend them I bought a Hancook one, no dearer than a normal battery, higher AH, more cranking Amps, they dont leak, they can be mounted in any position, even upside down and it holds its charge for so much longer It also came with a 5 year guarantee When the battery starts to fail on my Jaguar, AGM is what I'm putting in cheers Joe

Hi you might need to disconnect the battery, to clear any errors, this should cure it make sure you have the stereo screen code first if the faults all ready there and you charge the battery, the faults will remain, disconnecting the battery should clear it if not, there are other issues and you need to get it plugged in to see what errors there are just one more thing, have you checked all the fuses are good, just in case cheers Joe

Hi I'd go with the 3.0, It had many improvements over the 2.7 The 2.7 way a joint venture, Jaguar, land-rover, Peugeot, Renault and Citroën, are just a few. Cheers Joe

Hi yes that right Theres 3 cables, one is part of the EPB, and 1 to each of the calipers Cheers Joe

Hi If you can ty-rap the repaired wire to something, like a bracket or other cables only when repaired with solder, it can make the wire more brittle and snap again at a later date due to vibration, If its fixed to something it may stop it breaking again cheers Joe

Hi Peter Sounds good cheers Joe

Hi Peter The only problem with that method Peter is, Your oil will be getting thinner and thinner and could end up being mainly diesel, which will not lubricate as well as oil If it were my car, I'd change the oil every time, especially if you only have to do it once every 6 months Have you ever seen a diesel runaway, basically because the oil ends up being mainly diesel, hot, it feeds the cylinders, it runs flatout, till it explodes, or the engine oil runs out, destroying itself, runaway diesel are near impossible to stop look here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j4rMfrERpG8 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5zx3qKX_Pno https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLzf3ItkbOE scary stuff cheers Joe

Hi Yes I would change the oil as soon as, then take it for a regen and blast keep your eye on the oil level as well cheers Joe

Hi Yes I would change the oil as soon as, then take it for a regen and blast keep your eye on the oil level as well cheers Joe

Hi That should do it, I'm supprised you dont have any warning lights, you usually do for a faulty maf Car still usually runs as it uses a default set of values, but it will be limited power looks like it might be a previous dodgy repair, If it was me i would cut, solder and use heat shrink to repair cheers Joe

Hi Saw this on face book and thought it was worth mentioning cheers Joe

Hi read up further up the page at my other post look here as well https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8xebdRYwtjE&utm_source=JaguarOwnersClub&utm_medium=ForumLinks&utm_campaign=referrals&utm_source=JaguarOwnersClub&utm_medium=ForumLinks&utm_campaign=referrals cheers Joe

Hi Only was to know for sure is get a 4 wheel alignment check, halfords do it for under £50 but if your tyres are wearing nice and even, then I would'nt worry about it, If the tyres are wearing on the inside, then it might be worth checking if it were a bush, thats worn, you would know, it would be knocking over bumps there is a height check you can do, attached a pic below also under heavy cornering, I'm sure there suppose to, as the upper and lower arms, are of unequal length, so as the suspension drops, the top of the wheel pulls inwards and help keep the wheel/tyre more in contact with the road under heavy cornering that why when you lower a car, you need to get the camber setup again. cheers Joe

hi +1 for the hid lights there much better cheers Joe

Hi I'm sure the wastegates on your car are electronic are you sure you have'nt left a plug, unplugged cheers Joe

Hi Steve Keep an eye on your charger, My CTEK has a green led on it when it fully charged, then when the battery voltage drops the red light comes on, to show charging, for a short while, then goes green again. This is a good indicator of the battery state, it should stay mainly green and then just top the battery up every now and then, after its initial charge if it never goes green or takes ages to go green and then only after a very short time, starts to charge again, then you may have a battery issue or a leakage current draining the battery depending on which CTEK you have, the lights will be different, but there usually a indicator to show when fully charged, then it looks at the battery voltage, when it drops to a certain level, the charger kicks in and tops it up. so fitting a battery charger on it might cure it, but if there is a underlying fault, it might still be there. I have CTEK chargers on two of my cars, I noticed recently that every time I went in the garage the one on my mitsubishi, was allways red,charging, and within a few weeks now it never goes green now, to say the battery fully charged, so initially I thought it was the charger, as the car all ways starts on the button, so I swapped it with the one on the jaguar and it does the same, ended up being the battery, the CTEK charger was keeping the battery charged, but when the charger was removed, it starts to discharge and goes flat withing a few days but saying that, the bosch battery has been on the car for nearly 12 years, so the charger has done a good job of keeping it in a good state. cheers joe

Hi there's loads on ebay, used one of these myself on my S-type R and they did the trick, like new http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3M-Headlight-Headlamp-Lens-Restoration-Polish-Kit-U-just-need-a-drill-VideoBelow-/390857513237?hash=item5b00ec5915:g:StoAAOxyR7tTkCiz also there's loads of video's on youtube showing how to do it cheers Joe

Hi I would say the EPB is faulty or hand brake cables have gone tight, you could live with it, but it will get worse personally I'd get it fixed properly, its either the EPB, more expensive option ( there's a epicyclic gears inside it, than run dry, not enough grease was put inside from new, then they wear and jam up regular, once worn. or it going to be the handbrake cables, they go really tight as they get old and corrode, overloading the EPB and causing it not to reach it desired position hears a link to a clip on how to operate the EPB motor manually https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8xebdRYwtjE&utm_source=JaguarOwnersClub&utm_medium=ForumLinks&utm_campaign=referrals and you dont have to disconnect the battery, no other memory will be lost. I'd replace the park brake cable first as there reasonably cheap, or at least check them, they should slide nice and smooth, also check the rear brake calipers lever for the handbrake operates smoothly normal s-types hand brake operates a lever on the main brake caliper, operating the inner pads only, if there not setup correct this can cause EPB faults s-type R up to 2005 has two brake calipers at the rear, one solely for EPB and one for footbrake, post 2005 went to budget brakes so handbrake was on single brake caliper I say budget as pre 2005 R's had four pot brembo's at the rear and a dedicated seperate parking brake caliper, then it also had huge 4 pot brembo's at the front, where post 2005 had single pot, sliding caliper at the rear, with parking brake and single pot, sliding caliper at the front I removed my EPB when I first had the car, knowing that they can be troublesome and greased it all up and checked the cables were nice and free and mines worked faultlessly for nearly 2 years now. also if the rubber boots have perished at each end of the cables, they fill with damp and water and this time of year when its frosty, your guaranteed a " EPB FAULT", or excessive rear pad wear and if there frozen, there's no freeing them till they thaw cheers Joe

Hi If its 2wd it can only really be one of the wheels, its the only thing big enough to give vibration through the car usually the propshaft will give vibration through the car, it has to be one of the wheels or a hub, if its been kurbed in the past some tyre places, like my local tyre place, has a machine that can balance the tyre on the car, it spins the tyre on the car, it might be worth look into that, see if the are any tyre places in your area that have a that facility cheers Joe

Hi Ebay, they will also need programing to the car for sure cheers Joe

Hi Is your car 4wd drive, if so I'd say prop shaft is favorite cheers Joe

Hi Its hard to say have you plugged in to see if there are any fault codes on the ecu have you checked all the fuses, power to the engine ecu and glow plugs usually with a diesel if you get fuel, it will run, I'd pull all the injectors and then crank it to see that they all squirt cheers Joe

Hi and welcome The wheel are Jaguar, seen them on other XJ's, They do look well on the car though, suits it as for the color, it will usually give a color code on the driver door shut, again a nice choice of color, may be some one will know the colors name is it petrol or diesel cheers Joe