JOE-DOT-COM

Hi Only problem is the sills can be completely rotted out and you can't see a single thing with the cover on what you get on the mot is, "cant' check sill's due to covers fitted" and "cant't check floors due to covers fitted" on a mot they can't remove anything, the can only tap it or prod it with out excessive force, so sill's get missed. pauls 2006 s-type, he was shocked when he checked his http://www.jaguarownersclub.com/forums/topic/13904-a-nasty-shock/#comment-41101 some others here http://www.jaguarownersclub.com/forums/topic/14389-jaguar-s-type-2003-rust/#comment-43523 http://www.jaguarownersclub.com/forums/topic/12503-sills-worse-case-scenario-cost/#comment-32763 if you have a android phone , go on google play store and look for " VEHICLE SMART " app with this you can check the vehicle milage and any previous mot advisory's cheers Joe

hi Yes also my 2004 ones still look like new I think a lot of it depends where it kept, damp garage will kill sills and also sunroofs, when the outer seal leaks, there drains each side of the sunroof, that the pipes go down into the sills I sprayed all inside the sills, inner sills, well Ive done the whole car now, with wurth cavity wax, which will hopefully prolong the cars life cheers Joe

hi Russ have a look on the castrol site, you can enter your reg and find recommended oil for you car. As jaguar allways recomend castrol look her http://applications.castrol.com/oilselector/en_gb/c/search they do recommend a atf for your car cheers joe

Hi can't find much info on the manual gearboxes on the s-types, I know 75w90 is way too thick I'd phone a jaguar dealer and ask them, just to sure cheers Joe

Hi usually if you at the top of the sill, nearest to the rear, by the wheel arch, it will come unclipped there quite easily and you can look in, from what i've seen, when they go there worst at the back, also if you bang them with your hand, from the bottom, if it sounds like there's a load of loose stuff in there, then you need a closer look. my car a 2004 S-type R, the sills still look like new, but when I purchased mine , the garage let me put it on the ramp and even gave me a screw driver so i removed some of the plastic clips and had a proper look, I liked the car and told him if the sills are good its mine. as for the rear cross member as far as I know there no issues with 2002 onwards, it was pre face lift that had a different rear sub frame and was prone to rotting, these are quite hard to find now good second hand, like I say laters ones are better, don't rust and second hand ones are plenty take it for a good test drive as well, if its a auto make sure its all smooth, most common issue is lurching and surging in the 1-2, 2-3, 3-2,2-1, listen out for any knocking or bumping, there's a large amount of bushes on these that can fail, should be silky smooth also every time you stop try the parking brake, these also can be a common fault, you get EPB fault, check every thing works, especially all the electrics, check both remotes work check inside the boot, some were prone with filling with water check the headlights, its a common fault that headlight adjuster break inside the headlight, which usually means the beams are very low, sagging, auto adjuster wont work, give very poor lighting, they can be repaired, but very time consuming, HID headlights means headlight off and bumper off to replace bulbs and to repair adjuster inside. service history will be a good indicator on the car, more the better, look at the tyre's, descent branded tyres on the rear are a must, these are just a few, but check them sill's cheers Joe

HI Thats a auto trans fluid,for auto's cheers Joe

Hi Phil that is quite a low millage but if you get chance check the sills, they are worst place for corrosion on the s-type, some have completely gone, but you don't know as there hidden by the sill cover, worth a check now. would of thought a 2006 would of had power folds, but like Steve said try pressing the round button at 6 o'clock position, mirror selector switch must be in the middle. some cars had them, but because they were not used they can seize up, but you would get some noises when pressing the fold button, to fit all you need are a pair of power fold mirrors, wiring should all ready be there on a 2006, you may need to get jaguar or some one with SDD to enable them, some work straight away, some need software to enable them. as for the bluetooth there's 2 options, earlier cars need a phone module (goes in the boot), bluetooth module (goes in the armrest) and a mic (roof console, not needed if you allready have voice fitted) or the later ones a black plastic module in the boot, that does both phone and bluetooth, you will also need a bluetooth antenna and the mic again, the later option is the easier to fit and usually the cheapest, but again might work straight away or need software to enable it, it all depends how the module your fitting was configured in the original car, if its a similar setup to your own, then they work straight away, if the original car was more basic than yours then like i said it might need software to enable it, at a guess your looking at about £100 for a pair of descent mirrors, but I have seen cheaper, the later phone/bluetooth module is about £100, about £10 for the bluetooth antenna and the mic varies from £20 to £70. I fitted the voice module to mine and I do like it, as you can control most features of the car through voice, like sat nav, radio, cd, cd changer, phone, heater, air con, acm/mp3 player the parrot system does offer better functions, as the jaguar bluetooth is only basic, its only makes calls and contacts are displayed on the touch screen, you can't send music to it via your phone. cheers joe

Hi I think it was to do with the website, they were having problems with repeat posts, but its all been sorted now Cheers Joe

Hi if it's stood for a few days, battery, charge it overnight and I bet they will all go away, battery voltage, must be a bit low Cheers Joe

hi I thought fronts were 8.5j and rears are 9.5j yours has 8.5j on the rear cheers Joe

Hi this one i found, but not the cheapest http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-20-JAGUAR-XF-XK-XKR-SENTA-CROMODORA-REAR-ALLOY-WHEEL-6W83-1007-FC-/192043493052?fits=Car+Make%3AJaguar&hash=item2cb6af26bc:g:Dx0AAOSw4shX6ipp

Hi, not sure, never really noticed, not sure how it changes, the "supporter tag" cheers Joe

Hi Have a look on euro car parts as well, see if they sell the same oil and wait for a offer code, they have offer codes regular and can get 30% off there worth keeping an eye on for offers cheers Joe

Hi Garry Diesels are generally better if your doing more millage and with DPF filters now days they need regular runs or to be driven sportily to keep that DPF free, but there more and more popular these days, as people see the mpg's they offer and lot of folks looking after the pennies have them, If your one who does low miles, like your commute, 5 miles, a diesel wont even warm up, you wont even put back in the battery what you took out of it, starting it. personally I'd go with a Petrol, but the diesel will feel faster, more torque from the diesel, also if your buying a diesel, make sure it has the DPF still fitted, a lot of diesels in the past few years have had the dpf's removed and mapped out, which was great, but from may 2017, all diesels that left the factory with a dpf will be tested at mot time to check that the dpf actually works. I'd test drive both and see which you like most and take it from there. there's lot of folk on here with diesel and some must use them just for local miles, hopefully they will tell us what there like to live with cheers Joe

hi I'd check that 75w90 is the right oil, that quite a thick oil checked on autodata and it does recomend that 75w90 for it I used it once in my other car and it made gear changes very stiff when cold, ended up using castrol syntrans 75w80 in the end, which made it very smooth hot and cold the 75w140 is correct for the diff, but on my S-type R, there's no drain plug, "sealed for life", I had to suck the old oil out and then replace it cheers Joe

Hi what model of car do you have, I'm sure only the HID headlights do the sweep up and down on ignition on, none of the other headlights do, halogen light are not self leveling, there's a adjuster on the right hand side of the dash that lowers them as you put more passenger and load in the car if they are self leveling and they don't do the up and down sweep on ignition, then they have a fault, which can be read with a jaguar code reader, its usually front or rear leveling sensor also all headlights are adjustable and the rear of the headlight, with a allen key if i remember right, self leveling or not its a common fault for the adjusters to break on s-type and x-type, the adjusters just go weak and break, easiest way to tell is remove the cover off the rear of the headlight on the high beam, inner ones, hold the bulb holder and push and pull gently, if they don't move there ok, if there all loose then the adjuster have broke adjusters are available off ebay and can be replaced by taking the headlight apart, but the front bumper has to be removed to remove the headlights, I did mine last year took me 3 hours from start to finish cheers joe

Hi It looks like when you press the "SUBMIT" nothing happens, but every time you press it, it posts a duplicate post, the page is not refreshing on its own I recommend till its sorted, that when you write a post, you press "SUBMIT REPLY" once, then if you right click on the page and press "REFRESH", the page will reload with your new post on works for me cheers Joe

Hi Peter Shame we did not have the facility to delete our own posts, you can on every other forum?? Well only the person who created the post, can delete it It would save a lot of hassle cheers Joe

hi have a look on ebay link here http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/X-TYPE-BELIZE-ALLOY-WHEEL-17-REFURBISHED-JAGUAR-FREE-DELIVERY-/252659051892?fits=Car+Make%3AJaguar&hash=item3ad3a72d74:g:AEsAAOxygPtS3PHG cheers joe

posted twice for some reason admin please delete this

Hi If you look on ebay for jaguar bbs wheel valves and valve adapters theres loads on there basically the valve bolts inside the wheel, then there a cap to give it a flush look and protect it to inflate it you remove the cap and screw in a adapter and inflate as normal then remove the adapter and refit the cap cheers Joe some pics off ebay adapter adapter valve caps valves

hi not got a XF diesel, but I do know like most modern diesels, they don't like to potter around town they do like the revs raised, at regular intervals, to get the DPF hot and which in turn keeps it clear motorways are ideal to achieve this, but you don't have to go zooming around every where, you just need to get the revs raised, for short periods, at regular intervals, will help, if not cure it cheers joe

Hi are they genuine discs or copies cheers joe

Hi Looks very nice and Jaguar history is great But the only thing I can recommend is have a look behind those plastic sill covers, they can hide a nightmare. this was the first thing i checked when I bought my S-type cheers joe

Hi Just had a quick look on Autodata there's two timing belts on the tdv6 2.7 and it says 3.8 hours to do the job, one belt for timing ( if timing belt fails pistons and valves will clash, causing engine damage), other belt is high pressure fuel pump ( if this belt fails no engine damage ) water pump is not driven by the cambelt, its driven by the aux belt, so could be done at a later date, but will be cheaper to replace the water pump now, as most of the stuff has all ready been removed so you could look at the prices of the parts, plus 4 hours labour, for a idea on prices. some one else on here should give you a better price idea jaguar are quoting at £375 for cambelt on a s-type and will be cheaper at a local indy http://www.jaguar.co.uk/owners/servicing-maintenance/fixed-price-servicing.html cheers joe