JOE-DOT-COM

Hi Dino My car came with a set of rear window screens, Adamesh sell them they easily fit and can be removed, you can also open the window, and nothing can fly into the car they also look like car has been tinted, well recomended cheers joe http://www.adamesh.co.uk/jaguar-xf-saloon-privacy-shades-731-p.asp

hi shane just had a quick look on ebay, there about £50 to £60 and they look fairly easy to fit wheel off , caliper off, disc off, four bolts and unplug your abs sensor if you have a decent jack and decent socket set and about 2 hours start to finish. if every thing comes undone easy.

hi Paul the only other thing i can recommend is if this has recently started and is getting worse is A lot of people recommend Terraclean, which is suppose to clean the the whole fuel system and exhaust the other thing to look into is that I've seen a few people saying they cured hesitation on the diesels by swapping the turbo actuators, which are apparently electronic and are prone to failing do you get any fault codes also on my s-type r, when you use the IDS software, under special applications there one called "flight control" if this is enabled and running, it logs all engine sensors, voltages, car speed, gps and more, looking through this data might show up a fault with a sensor, but I'm not sure if this is available on the diesels cheers Joe

hi paul saw this http://www.jaguarownersclub.com/forums/topic/8674-diesel-engine-problem/

Hi does the 2.1 v6 have a turbo, I thought it was petrol and only the diesels have turbo's I may be wrong cheers Joe

Hi John post some picture up I bought one off ebay, but finding one with good batteries would be a miracle The one i bought, I pulled apart and replaced the Nicads theres a few on ebay, depending on which one you have, there used on the jaguar range cheers Joe

Hi If its hot air coming out, as in when the heater would be on, then its more that likely, the heater solenoid valve, these are a common problem and stick, if hot water passing the heater valve no amount of air con will cool it and will just cause the engine to run hotter as the condensor radiator infront of the engine radiator will get hotter than normal if its just warm air, as in warm air been drawn in at ambient outside temp, then its going to be aircon possibly, if you hear a click come from the engine bay, when you switch the aircon on then thats a good sign, thats means theres gas still in there and it just might need a top up, if there no click noise when the aircon is switch on, that usually means theres no gas left and a pressure switch is holding it off, this can be more involved in getting it working and there going to be a leak some where, as the gas is gone if you get the system topped up, get them put some dye in there as if you lose the gas again, it should show where the leak is in the future my other half has just had her air con topped up through a groupon voucher for £20, which is superb value, but there offers come and go, buts its worth keeping a eye on it cheers Joe

hi has it done any damage looks like something let go, hose or expansion tank can you see where its all come from cheers joe

Hi yes it's just drawn wrong 3 is the common and 4 is the normally closed contact, numbers are correct, it was just a quick sketch

Hi you could repair it with pipe short term but id get a proper hose and replace it if its gone once then it will go again, the pipe go hard with age and will only leak again if it were to completely split, you risk overheating your car and damaging heads if you replace you can forget about it phone these there good prices and usually have them in stock https://www.britishparts.co.uk/t/jaguar/jaguar-s-type cheers joe

Hi as far as i can see in autodata the 3.0 petrol is timing chain, but diesel has a cam belt cheers Joe

Hi was looking through ebay and saw these two poor s-types http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1999-JAGUAR-S-TYPE-V6-AUTO-CAMOUFLAGE-PAINT-CHARITY-EVENT-CAR-/282025030090?hash=item41aa0071ca:g:L7cAAOSw9ZdXJ5W2 and this ones special apparently http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JAGUAR-S-TYPE-V6-AUTO-R-TYPE-SPECIAL-EDITION-3-0-/222101118923?hash=item33b6421fcb:g:54MAAOSwZjhXIm4W cheers Joe

Hi Have altered these since I've added a relay now inside the fusebox, so when the main lights are switched on, the DRL's switch off

Hi Dean yes its coolant level, check its above the marker, in the opening and if it is it could be the sensor if it just come on, then its coolant level or sensors faulty, check the sensor plug is all the way on if its allways been on, if you feel at the back middle bottom, with engine off, there should be a sensor sticking out with a plug on it, if the sensor and plug are there then its coolant or faulty sensor I say check for the sensor, as the coolant expansion bottle, is a common failure and leaks, the coolant bottle is available with or without the coolant level sensor, so some cars have a new coolant expansion tank fitted with out the facility to mount the coolant level sensor in, there cheaper, so it either gets unplugged, coolant level warning allways stays on, or sensor taped up cheers Joe

Hi I had a noise like this, has it had any new discs or pads recently by any chance mine had the metal disc shield which had been bent a bit and was nearly touching the disc, but when i turned it rubbed, could be something similar cheers Joe

Hi David as its common to all cylinders, possible fuel pump or fuel pump pressure regulator if the fuel pressure low, you could check with a gauge like I think you have, but you could try clamping the return line off slightly to get your fuel pressure up to your 55psi with say some mole grips and then drive it, could be something as simple as the fuel pressure regulator, if you cant achieve the 55psi with clamping the return hose, it could be the fuel pump it has to be something common to all cylinders, I think there's also a fuel pump ecu, that lowers the voltage to the fuel pump when idling, could be this, some people hot wire the fuel pump to get more power as fuel pressure will be raised, hot wiring is just basically bypassing the ecu/fuel pump control unit, with a ignition supply common fault with running lean is usually air leaks, split hoses, inlet manifold gaskets etc, but you said you have checked this, you could try some easy start around the hoses, inlet manifold area, if theres a leak, it will suck the easy start in and the revs will raise on idle could also be airflow/maff sensor, this also can effect mixture of engine cheers Joe

Hi and Wecome Post some pics up Rattles can be a pain, sometime by just removing it and putting it back can cure it also you can get like a black cloth tape, I've this this on wiring and even put it over the clips and it stops them sqeaking/rattling cheers Joe

Hi All Added some indicator bulb DRL/indicator LED bulbs today to my S-type R, For under £20 theres no ready to go kits for the PY21W bulbs our cars have, so i made a set. And i must admit they look great got the bulbs off ebay for under a £10 from Hong Kong, Came in under a week, they were so cheap i bought a extra couple of sets as spares I had to alter them completely, the led bulbs were a rubber grommet push in type, which i thought were poor. So what i did is mount the led bulbs in two spare indicator bulb holders, rubbers removed from new led's, lampholders drilled out, new led's glued into jaguar holder with PU adhesive, so they push in proper, and i used a old bulb base so it plugged straight into the old bulb holder, I don't like cutting and chopping the original wiring, this is fully reverseable and the old style bulbs can be plugged straight back in, No jaguar wiring or harnesses were damaged or injured in the process of this conversion, lol. One thing to remember on these, the lamp holders are wired different, the case of the bulb is positive and the centre is negative switched I tapped all the wiring in manufacturer style black cloth tape, for the OE look I also had to add a relay because jaguar use a permanent feed to the bulb and they switch the negative/earth to operate the bulb, so the relay converts the negative switch to positive switch The set came with resistors, but they are not needed as there controlled by a ecu and the resistance of the relay is enough for the ecu to recognise the bulb is healthy I got the jaguar indicator bulb holders and relays, there was only one s-type so 2x lamp holders and i got over a dozen relays, same as the smaller ones in the fuse box, for a Fiver, at my local scrappy, Mc Guinesses. I fed the DRL out of the fuse box in the engine bay, I can also turn them off there if i don't want them on all the time, mine come straight on as soon as the engine starts here are some pics KITS I BOUGHT LEDS IN MODIFIED JAGUAR BULB HOLDERS COMPLETED WIRING AND BULB HOLDERS HOW THERE WIRED AND LAST A QUICK VIDEO OF THEM WORKING https://youtu.be/FEqx87slBl8 INSTRUCTIONS HERE AS WELL Instructions doc.

Hi Brian The vibration could be tyres need balancing, get the front and rears balanced, the rears sometimes get overlooked and can cause the vibration through the car as for the lag, not sure about the diesels, its not just the transmission in a high criuse gear, has it a sport button and does it do it on kickdown cheers Joe

Hi Its not really a retro fit, but a repair for existing ones, but could be retro fitted if wanted A lot of S-type had the adjustable pedals fitted, but if they were not setup correct and you adjusted to the stop to hard It would shear the plastic gear, the plastic gears are not available as a spare part and you have to buy the complete pedal assembly, which is so expensive I made some replacement gears, that would get the broken gear up and running I think the adjustable pedals are great, as you adjust your seat to where your comfortable and happy, then you move your steering wheel to where its comfortable and last of all you move the pedals up to your feet and its all remembered in the memory if saved cheers Joe

Hi All Just wondered how many people on here have the adjustable pedals that don't work Only Mine were not working and i may of found a fix for this Just seeing what interest there might be in getting these fixed Cheers Joe

where was it then

Hi I allways let the car idle for a few seconds, just to let the engine and transmission ecu settle and then turn it off its bad to rev a car then turn it off, because if there turbo's and they can spin for many seconds without lubrication if the fans are running I allways wait till they stop, then turn the engine off, as thats when the engine is the coolest cheers Joe

HI LOOK HERE CLICK ON THE PIC TO ENLARGE

hi Thats a good service, you would have to remove the turbo to check it properly,if its leaking oil, then i take it your car is smoking on idle generally on a turbo failure did they say where the oil leak was I'd say a new turbo going to be an easy £1000 from jaguar, there loads on ebay for about £100 to £250 if you go for a used one go for the newest and most will offer a guarantee, go for the longest if it not smoking and does not use any oil, I'd get a second opinion from another garage seems to new for a turbo to fail on a diesel, they run very low boost and generally last years, in standard form, not chipped cheers Joe