biffer

Ok a bit of an update, My local spanner guy who does all the servicing for the work vans for my business has had the car in and has been gradually working on it as time allows, i told him no rush just do it right! he has today stripped the not very old clutch dmf etc out and has called me around for a look. The way he has described it is, the flywheel has no tension, and showed me it moved side to side very easily but also wobbled across the face, the clutch plate as I recognise has only been contacting on the outer portion of the place abrasive and you can plainly see it is glazed and badly worn, but the inner half of the clutch plate is virtually brand new with no visible wear? The clutch and kit he thinks are a mash up of comline and borg and beck? and said really it should have had a LUK one? So the good garage scheme reputable garage that installed "genuine Jaguar bits" and charged £1077 for the pleasure appears to be not such a good garage, and im guessing genuine Jaguar parts would have been 1 brand not a mismatch. On the plus side the spanners is doing the whole job for £600 and I trust he will complete the job as it should have been done the first time. He said he will try to squeeze the reassembly tomorrow so when it is complete I will update and report again and upload some picture of the wear on the old clutch plate. p.s. anyone want a 2300 mile clutch with 1 careful owner? lol

The complete clutch kit and dmf was changed with Genuine Jaguar supplied parts from Bristol main dealer, and fitted by a very reputable garage, and I don't have no reason to doubt them, but it is disheartening. The clutch only slips when the turbo cuts in and it feels almost like an automatic if you understand? the revs go up without the speed rising then the revs/speed sync up. But if i put it in 4th gear really quickly from pulling away no slipping? Its really odd.

So I bought the newest tidiest x-type I could in May after parting with the s-type, in the best colour (black) one of the last made, with most of the toys, really good history and had all the expensive bits done including dual mass flywheel and clutch kit with genuine Jaguar parts last November.Trouble free motoring until today, clutch has started to slip slightly, it has only covered 2300 miles since it was replaced. Contacted the garage that fitted it a year ago for £1077.00 and there's nothing they can do because it is just over 12 months, fair enough I suppose. So do I sell it and get something else, I know I will take a hit on the price with the clutch starting to slip but will I see £1000 more when I sell if I spend it on another new clutch? Do I keep it, repair it and drive it forever with the knowledge that the clutch could possibly fail in another 13 months and be hit with another bill? Anyone will to give any advice? Thanks in advance

Hi everyone, spent a few years owning an old s-type and joined and lurked in the s-type forum inputting occasionally, but decided to change the Jag for a newer X-Type 2.0 Diesel, I shall hover around and enjoy the forum , entering with comment when I can offer useful input :)

Sorry haven't been around for a while, I decided to change the S-type and got a late x-type diesel

So I gave the car the once over and couldn't see anything glaringly obvious, so I booked the car in for mot with a week to run on the current one, and left it with the garage at their mercy, bearing in mind its approaching 14 years old, and I have never moted this car before having only owned for 9 months and not spent a penny on it mechanically in this time . Popped around the testing station on the way home from work and it had passed straight through with no advisories. Now I am left thinking do I change it for a newer S-type and sell this while it has a full new mot? Or keep it another year and try again to sort the rattling heat shields out?

Thanks for confirming what I thought, now I have just got to get it up in the air to do it

Over the past month or so i have noticed a rattle almost harmonising vibrating from what I presume is the heat/noise shielding under the car, it seems to be coming from the silver tin stuff that covers the entire floor of the car, and only happens when coasting in gear. Does anyone have/had this problem? how did you solve it? Or can I just remove the whole lot of it all over the underside? its a shame the car runs and drives perfectly and this is my only niggle with it. Thanks in advance

I Have them and they are working (just checked) they also link to the drivers memory seat etc, so I dont how easy retro fitting would be?

I was 42, 2.5 months ago lol

Heres Mine

I popped mine off looking at the rear of the mirror with a very small flat screwdriver underneath the bottom of the rounded part, should be quite easy, then spray plenty of penetrating fluid over the mechanism, then wriggle back and forward, Ideally then have an assistant to move the mirror into position when you press the button just to help it until it moves freely, once moving freely I sprayed some white grease over the mechanism before refitting the cover to keep it clear and lubed

Hi Paul, is this the same module I have the details for?

Very pretty car Claws

So having spent today getting my head around and studying the theoretical wiring diagram and module schematics for auto powerfold mirrors on double lock/unlock (thanks Paul for supplying)I had an idea, I had to try and figure how it would interface with the wiring into my car as it is older than the model this module and diagram are designed for (mine is pre 2004) and suddenly thought I could alter the module a little, instead of having the powerfold work on double lock and unlock, why not configure it to open with ignition accessory and close when ignition is off. Then I thought a little further and realised my drivers seat powers up and goes to its memory position every time I place the key in the ignition, and returns when I remove it. So why cant I use a pulse from this to fire the relay/s to operate the mirrors folding function? not as flashy as remote lock and mirrors combined but a little more subtle and straight forward I think. Anyone have any thoughts or reasons why my theory maybe wrong?

Did you only swap your coils over and replace just the 1? it could be as simple if this is so, as another coil pack breaking down.

PM ed

Would love the diagram and list of parts please

Fold in mirrors now working as they should, the fault was not due to freezing but slightly seized as predicted, thanks to shove in the right direction thanks Paul! So next question, as long as you have the time and of course you don't mind sharing with me is, how easy a task and how do I get the folding mirrors to work when locking and unlocking the car? Thanks again in advance

Great thinking, but wouldnt they also fold when the auto lock anti carjack thing kicks in as you pull away? (that i am still trying to turn off)

Im so glad I signed up here. Information goldmine!!!

car dash showing -4 door had frozen closed, but managed to get in, I think the mirrors are frozen in place at the moment, i could hear the motor/servo thing kicking in but it failed to fold them in. I will definitely be trying this again once the car defrosts tomorrow, Thanks for the pointer

Even more impressive

Thats amazing service, was the delivery charge very much to justify a fantastic service like that?...I wish the bits and pieces I buy on ebay were delivered that quick, Just bought 2 dash cams from groupon last week on the 10th paid extra for delivery, only coming from London, due the 20th, lots and lots of companies should take notes on how it should be done!

Havent found that one either but im going outside to try that now!