Simjag

The plugs on the back are completely different.

Hi, have a read of this - http://jaguarclimatecontrol.com/diagnose/

What's one of the reason why I love my motorbike!

Hi Steve, your S being a limited edition you would think it would be loaded with the extras!

Has the spark plugs been changed?

Did you Andy Fiat stopped making this colour last July. Like this Quote

Oh, I have the same (well sort of)

I think the question is 'is it heated where the wipers park not is the screen heated' And did they ask if you have auto wipers?

Sorry I don't like the red!

Hi all,Came across a strange one over the last 2 days.As we all know it's been cold overnight the last few days, so 1st thing I start the S and turn on the heated front screen, rear window and heated seat. These stay on until they switch themselves off. Nothing unusual about that I heard you say but the last 2 days then I leave work to go home and on starting the engine the heated front and rear window have automatically switched themselves on (the external temp was above 9c).This has never happened before, I always have to turn them on if needed (not that they are needed then temp is above 5c anyway).The touch screen/ sat nav was retrofitted from my last S so I've been using it for over 4 years now.Any ideas?Thanks.

Sounds like they great! But I think I may get a bit lost! Ist I position my seat to suit the pedals then adjust steering wheel to suit and set them in memory, with the pedals moving as well I would end up in the boot!

And it's handy for seeing how much your speedo overeads,

Wrap! Someone getting their car done. Pictures before and after would be great!

Oh yes I had forgot about the thread, the jag aston dealer was the one at Reading. So your playing the waiting game on Claws selling the Adamesh boxes then?

Russ68, are your tail the same as -

Hi, sorry can't help with your squeak/noise. My last S which was a late 2002 had done 245k on the same engine and auto box it left the factory with and was still driving fine then I scrapped it. My present S, a 2005 has now done 170k and again all fine!

I have some exhaust finishers on mine I think they are from a xs. I will post a picture tomorrow.

So are you keeping them on then?

Out of 3.0 or 2.5 the 3.0 is best, it's got good over taking power. And I have read about a few 2.5 with HGF but no 3.0s which is funny as it's the same engine. Well that depends on how much you have to spend and which one you like the most. I have owned all 3 models of S - 99/T 3.0 with the 5 speed auto, late 2002 3.0 and now a 05/55 plate facelift. The facelift has a different shape bonnet and it's alloy, also grille, front bumper, dash (dials), doors and everything from back door backwards!

Read this also- http://europe.delphi-dso.com/downloads/private/techical%20bulletins/Brakes%20Tech%20Bulls/50%20-%20OCT%2004%20VACUUM%20BRAKE%20SERVO%20TEST%20PROCEDURE.pdf Note the bit about diesel engines under test 3.

More info - Know What a Brake Booster Does The brake booster sits between the brake pedal and the master cylinder. When the driver pushes down on the brake pedal, the brake booster amplifies the force exerted on the master cylinder. The result is that the driver does not have to push down on the brake pedal very hard to engage the car's braking system. A brake booster is a canister that consists of two chambers with a rod running through the center of it. This rod connects the brake pedal with the master cylinder. When your foot is off the brake pedal, the two chambers maintain a vacuum. When you push down on the brake, air enters one chamber while the other maintains a vacuum. As the air pressure in the one chamber increases, it exerts pressure on the diaphragm that separates the two chambers. This in turn exerts force on the rod that connects the pedal to the master cylinder. When you take your foot off the brake again, the interior of the brake booster returns to its original state, a vacuum. Test if the Vacuum Hose is the Problem Park the car. Turn off the engine. Pump the brakes five to six times using no more pressure than you would usually apply when braking. This action allows more air into the brake booster and bleeds any residual vacuum. Now, turn the engine back on, and keep your foot pushing down on the pedal. Note what happens to the pedal. With the engine running, the engine sucks air out of the brake booster, restoring the vacuum. Ideally, the pedal should fall towards the floor with you applying light and steady pressure. If the pedal pushes back against your foot, then there is a problem. This could be a blocked vacuum hose or a leak in the vacuum hose. Test if the Brake Booster Can Maintain a Vacuum The next test checks the integrity of the brake booster. If the booster cannot maintain a vacuum after you turn off the engine, the problem is the booster itself, and the whole mechanism needs replacing. To perform this test, park the car, take your foot off the brake pedal, and then start the engine. Let the engine idle for two minutes. Just before you turn off the engine, push down on the brake pedal and hold it. Turn the engine off, and then continue holding your foot on the pedal for another 30 seconds. If the pedal stays where it is, then the brake booster can maintain a vacuum. If the pedal starts to rise, it is time to replace the brake booster. Examine the Vacuum Hose It is the engine that creates a vacuum in the brake booster by sucking air out of the mechanism. If there is a vaccum leak in the vacuum hose, this could be the cause of the problem. There are various ways to test for a vaccum leak. Unlike a leak in a tire, you are not looking for evidence of air escaping, but rather evidence of sucking. Park the car, leave the engine to idle, and pop the hood. Take a can of brake cleaner, and spray along the length of the vacuum hose. If there is a vacuum leak, the running engine sucks in the cleaning fluid through a hole in the vacuum hose. In this case, just the hose needs replacing to rectify the problem.

How to check a brake servo is working ok - With the engine off, press hard on the brake pedal. Turn the engine on and the pedal should depress slightly but no more than an inch or two.

Diesel is no good for 5k miles per year!

Well I am surprised! These boxes which are from well known jag performance parts supplier and I would of thought they would more refined. These boxes are the same ones for all v8 models I hate to think how noisy they would be! Sorry to say it but I'm happy I sold them to you!

Well could be pump but it's hard to work out if it's circulating, fingers crossed for David it is! But not heard of any impellers failing on any S engine before but have heard of HGF on cylinder 6 on 2.5s a few times.