Old_Growler

Suggest before dismantling, To prove or disprove? Give the window switch the merest of flicks down as not to open but just to take up any slack in the cables..Then drive for a week or so.

Hi Gary, A common problem with the early XF is the window cables inside the doors go slack allowing the window to tilt slightly which causes the anti trap sensor to auto lower the window. Slack cables are usually accompanied by an annoying rattle. Or perhaps the window channel rubber seals are worn or damaged? You could try some washing-up liquid to lubricate any tight spots. As for the interior light I don't have a clue? Unless you have a unknown passenger in the form of something like a big hairy arthropod .

It could possibly be the auxiliary battery dropping below 50% charge if the problem is related to the stop /start?..Changing the main battery will not charge the small battery as its charged independent so if your doing a lot of town driving and using stop / start the auxiliary won't recharge until taken on a long run. Also the auxiliary battery converter module can become troublesome on the XF.

Jaguar recommend changing the 3.0D belt at 112,000m or 10years if vehicle has been subject to normal road use. So you still still have time to save up..£££s.. The Jaguar offical book time given is 4:30hrs. And should be invoiced at! And not charged for the time wrote on the technicians job sheet which would probably include chatting to there mates & tea breaks.. Whether still available Jaguar was doing a promotional offer?? On 3+ year old cars at £439.00 for a belt change including all parts & anti freeze..At that mileage while stripped down it would be false economy not to consider having the high-pressure fuel pump driven belt changed at the same time? Plus water pump and a replacement cam belt pulley bolt.

Why does everyone assume remapping an ECU leads to driving faster? I thought the topic was on preventing DPF problems? The engine which Jaguar put into to your car maybe very well designed? But there not hand built and blue printed,So each will be slightly different but the ECU used is not calibrated to individual engines hence fuel efficient it's not! It stands to reason if you can achieve 3-5 mpg more the fuel is being burnt and not depositing un-burnt down the exhaust. I don't dispute you think your car drives very sweetly as your used to driving it, But I very much doubt after 10 years the bhp would be anywhere near the quoted 208 horses of a new engine and if your happy with the way it drives then all well and good. Before you shot me down! I was just trying to give advice on others not so fortunate to own such a sweet driving model. End of my impute on the subject..

Forget all these expensive diesel snake oil cleaning additives, The problem lies within the ECU and nothing will compensate if the fuel going in to the engine is not being efficiently burnt leading to an accumulation ash in the DPF, Just have a look at your exhaust tail trims if there not a light grey inside then the engine is not burning fuel correctly! My advice would be to have the ECU remapped and set up correctly to the engine in your car. I always use Quantum tuning as the information from the ECU is sent to their HQ then a rewritten map is returned an hour or later to install back into the ECU all for £299. An average condition 3.0D 241bhp engine will produce 290bhp & Nm575 & the 275bhp engine will produce 325bhp & Nm680 + an easy extra 3-5 mpg over Jaguar quoted mpg figures. I'm not saying once you have a DPF problem going this route will cure it if regenerate hasn't cured the problem? But as prevention before the problem arises.

I use the EBC yellow stuff front and rear combined with Mintex disks, I can't see the advantage on a road car of fitting the more expensive EBC rotors as any I've removed have never been warped or had pressure cracks. Can only advise purchase from the pads from an official EBC supplier as with most expensive items these days the Chinese make fakes. Whether EBC are now supplying pads with the 'u' cut out to fit the wear sensor I don't know as the last set I purchase never had and complained to EBC because I had to use a disk grinder on 2 pads to cut the metal backing to accommodate the sensors. As Joe said there's a lot less dust, There again my style of wheels are easy to clean plus I have 20mm spacers fitted. My old set which are now fitted with winter tyres weren't so easy to clean whatever pads were fitted.

I use the EBC yellow stuff front & rear, W

You will need to conform to EC directive 74/483 that it will depart from the plinth below a force of 10dAN if struck by a object. So unless it's a genuine Jaguar supplied I would think twice about buying on eBay. I speak from experience of in the past after pleading not guilty and ending up in county court with the police prosecuting me and only being found not guilty by supplying the dealer invoice and a letter from Jaguar that it conformed fully to the EC directive.

www.jagstyperegister.com/wherenumbers.htm Should give all the information requested

The outer door frames are the same except for the rear on a Sportbrake.. Whatever door you get? They will need stripping inside to fit the electrics and change the door handle so your wasting money buying a complete? Door, Plus higher up the range the leather trim will differ,The outer window frame trims can be either stainless or black. Then there's glass tint to consider the most common is green.

If your looking to find a XF petrol within your budget then it will be a pre face lift model, Then and unless it's been very high spec the headlamps are very poor + the Sat nav not up to much so you have problems with trying to use your media player. The face lift XF is only was available with the petrol 5.0 supercharged engine. Your best choice would be either a 2.2 or 3.0 diesel and for a budget of £15k there will be a good choice of late 2.2 available. I'm retired so I don't do a lot of miles maybe 5000 a year. I never had the DPF problems on any diesel car's and only use Morrisons fuel + a dash of additive per tank full. The 1st thing I do when getting a diesel is to have it correctly mapped.On my 3.0 I get near on 40 mpg around town & 50+ over longer distances (I'm not light footed) I always use Quantum Tuning who write a map dedicated to the vehicle this requires the ECU to be open on a 3.0D and enable to be mapped. On the 2.2 there's no need to enable the ECU and can be mapped by something like the Bluefin. Do not be tempted by any of the cheap tuning boxes.

Lights are normal..Unlock bright + with puddle lamps on mirrors..Then go dim and unless you start the car will auto turn off. With the engine running the lights will be bright when driving in daylight but dim once the head lamps are used. On the other problem might be worth checking a rear sensor is not blocked with dry polish.

If there halogen lamps there's usually a tourist setting switch to the back of the dip beam.