Old_Growler

Suggest before dismantling, To prove or disprove? Give the window switch the merest of flicks down as not to open but just to take up any slack in the cables..Then drive for a week or so.

Hi Gary, A common problem with the early XF is the window cables inside the doors go slack allowing the window to tilt slightly which causes the anti trap sensor to auto lower the window. Slack cables are usually accompanied by an annoying rattle. Or perhaps the window channel rubber seals are worn or damaged? You could try some washing-up liquid to lubricate any tight spots. As for the interior light I don't have a clue? Unless you have a unknown passenger in the form of something like a big hairy arthropod .

It could possibly be the auxiliary battery dropping below 50% charge if the problem is related to the stop /start?..Changing the main battery will not charge the small battery as its charged independent so if your doing a lot of town driving and using stop / start the auxiliary won't recharge until taken on a long run. Also the auxiliary battery converter module can become troublesome on the XF.

Jaguar recommend changing the 3.0D belt at 112,000m or 10years if vehicle has been subject to normal road use. So you still still have time to save up..£££s.. The Jaguar offical book time given is 4:30hrs. And should be invoiced at! And not charged for the time wrote on the technicians job sheet which would probably include chatting to there mates & tea breaks.. Whether still available Jaguar was doing a promotional offer?? On 3+ year old cars at £439.00 for a belt change including all parts & anti freeze..At that mileage while stripped down it would be false economy not to consider having the high-pressure fuel pump driven belt changed at the same time? Plus water pump and a replacement cam belt pulley bolt.

Why does everyone assume remapping an ECU leads to driving faster? I thought the topic was on preventing DPF problems? The engine which Jaguar put into to your car maybe very well designed? But there not hand built and blue printed,So each will be slightly different but the ECU used is not calibrated to individual engines hence fuel efficient it's not! It stands to reason if you can achieve 3-5 mpg more the fuel is being burnt and not depositing un-burnt down the exhaust. I don't dispute you think your car drives very sweetly as your used to driving it, But I very much doubt after 10 years the bhp would be anywhere near the quoted 208 horses of a new engine and if your happy with the way it drives then all well and good. Before you shot me down! I was just trying to give advice on others not so fortunate to own such a sweet driving model. End of my impute on the subject..

Forget all these expensive diesel snake oil cleaning additives, The problem lies within the ECU and nothing will compensate if the fuel going in to the engine is not being efficiently burnt leading to an accumulation ash in the DPF, Just have a look at your exhaust tail trims if there not a light grey inside then the engine is not burning fuel correctly! My advice would be to have the ECU remapped and set up correctly to the engine in your car. I always use Quantum tuning as the information from the ECU is sent to their HQ then a rewritten map is returned an hour or later to install back into the ECU all for £299. An average condition 3.0D 241bhp engine will produce 290bhp & Nm575 & the 275bhp engine will produce 325bhp & Nm680 + an easy extra 3-5 mpg over Jaguar quoted mpg figures. I'm not saying once you have a DPF problem going this route will cure it if regenerate hasn't cured the problem? But as prevention before the problem arises.

I use the EBC yellow stuff front and rear combined with Mintex disks, I can't see the advantage on a road car of fitting the more expensive EBC rotors as any I've removed have never been warped or had pressure cracks. Can only advise purchase from the pads from an official EBC supplier as with most expensive items these days the Chinese make fakes. Whether EBC are now supplying pads with the 'u' cut out to fit the wear sensor I don't know as the last set I purchase never had and complained to EBC because I had to use a disk grinder on 2 pads to cut the metal backing to accommodate the sensors. As Joe said there's a lot less dust, There again my style of wheels are easy to clean plus I have 20mm spacers fitted. My old set which are now fitted with winter tyres weren't so easy to clean whatever pads were fitted.

I use the EBC yellow stuff front & rear, W

You will need to conform to EC directive 74/483 that it will depart from the plinth below a force of 10dAN if struck by a object. So unless it's a genuine Jaguar supplied I would think twice about buying on eBay. I speak from experience of in the past after pleading not guilty and ending up in county court with the police prosecuting me and only being found not guilty by supplying the dealer invoice and a letter from Jaguar that it conformed fully to the EC directive.

www.jagstyperegister.com/wherenumbers.htm Should give all the information requested

The outer door frames are the same except for the rear on a Sportbrake.. Whatever door you get? They will need stripping inside to fit the electrics and change the door handle so your wasting money buying a complete? Door, Plus higher up the range the leather trim will differ,The outer window frame trims can be either stainless or black. Then there's glass tint to consider the most common is green.

If your looking to find a XF petrol within your budget then it will be a pre face lift model, Then and unless it's been very high spec the headlamps are very poor + the Sat nav not up to much so you have problems with trying to use your media player. The face lift XF is only was available with the petrol 5.0 supercharged engine. Your best choice would be either a 2.2 or 3.0 diesel and for a budget of £15k there will be a good choice of late 2.2 available. I'm retired so I don't do a lot of miles maybe 5000 a year. I never had the DPF problems on any diesel car's and only use Morrisons fuel + a dash of additive per tank full. The 1st thing I do when getting a diesel is to have it correctly mapped.On my 3.0 I get near on 40 mpg around town & 50+ over longer distances (I'm not light footed) I always use Quantum Tuning who write a map dedicated to the vehicle this requires the ECU to be open on a 3.0D and enable to be mapped. On the 2.2 there's no need to enable the ECU and can be mapped by something like the Bluefin. Do not be tempted by any of the cheap tuning boxes.

Lights are normal..Unlock bright + with puddle lamps on mirrors..Then go dim and unless you start the car will auto turn off. With the engine running the lights will be bright when driving in daylight but dim once the head lamps are used. On the other problem might be worth checking a rear sensor is not blocked with dry polish.

If there halogen lamps there's usually a tourist setting switch to the back of the dip beam.

More important now you need to display a correct for vehicle French Crit'Air pollution sticker or an instant road side £117 fine.

Suggest you get an additional 5.0 L supercharged!..Just incase the groom comes to his senses and wants to make a quick escape!

14"?? Country stops here with anything over 2" of snow...I've not fitted them yet and carefully stored! I'm still trying to wear out the F1s fitted to use the wheels..Bought a new set of 20" 5 stars for summer use. Lucky I have an understanding wife As any visitors are quite impressed by the smell of new rubber in the entrance porch.

Sequence is right if using settings manually on stalk.Off Day running light BRIGHT LED ..Side lights ON Dim LED..MAIN Lights ON dim LED The LED are you parking / daylight running & side lights, There's no other side light bulbs unlike the old model If set on auto then the sequence apart from unlocking or locking doors will differ with prevailing light conditions.

Closely inspect where the sensor has been reapplied to the screen just in case there an air bubble or adhesive giving a false reading? As Ward says if the vehicles parked outside this can happen so it's not a good practise to leave set to auto especially this time of year with possible over night frost. Plus with you living in London there's a good chance of being ambushed at traffic lights by the 'wash your screen brigade' and your end up with a tangle of busted wipers! I personally only use this function if following in slow traffic causing spray.

Then if been in business for that long they should know better than to sell you a car that as soon as you left there forecourt the police could stop you and you could get a ticket for defects?.+ points on your license. So your saying they sold you a car that needed a service and with consumable items close to or needing replacement that wasn't done or noted on any pre sales inspection? The days are long gone since a dealer can give a private buyer a receipt stating Sold as seen & tried & inspected with a current MOT..They must having giving you some kind of warrantee with the vehicle or did you get a scrap of paper and the Arthur Daley wave when leaving there forecourt that after the 1st 100yds any warrantee was void. If I was you? I would go back to the dealer which you should have done before letting a 3rd party fix after get the list of advisory work needed...Did you keep the worn items that where removed?..And request they refund your out of pocket expenses on the items replaced to get the vehicle into a roadworthy condition.

Ah just reread your problem. There would be no need for whoever was crimping the wires? To remove the sender unit as the ones inside the tank from either the pump or sender unit to the underside fitting never give problems.Its the ones on the tank outside that gives problems due to road dust and dirt being thrown up onto.If only now reading half a tank when full it would more and likely the winding on the actual sender unit it's self being either worn through or faulty. A very common fault on the 09-10 year models which I have on good information was caused by jaguar using units supplied by an eastern block country.

I wasn't aware you could purchase just the sender unit? As genuine Jaguar XF 3.0D replacements come with the pump attached at a cost of £300+. So doubtful a new sender was fitted unless aftermarket are now available? The old sender can be separated from the pump while still in the tank if the diesel is low by removing the wires to it inside the tank and sliding it off the pump (It's not so easy if removing both pump and sender as the flow and return pipes inside the tank can be a problem removing and refitting to the the pipes. You could try putting your hand into the tank and lifting the float to see if the gauge reading alters? As for re crimping the wires on the multi connector these are held in a plastic block and being thin wires can't be removed without damage, The usual trick is with a small blade down the inside of the block to close the gaps on the connectors and spray with an electrical anti seize. If want to give ago yourself it's not a difficult job if the diesel in the tank is low, Just a bit smelly. Lift the back seat swab There's 2 catches one under the middle of each side where any passengers sit To save the fiddly job of removing the rear seat belts,Lift the back seat as high as you can and place props under to support and make sure the props are secure! On the off side rear door pull up and off the plastic cill kick trim that holds the carpet in place. Then fold the carpet back. Your see a large round black plastic plug, Carefully side something down the edge of the plug and once you can get a finger under work your way around and remove. Under the plug your see the pump and sender top with the wire connector you said was re crimped, Release the connector clips and pull off. To gain access to the inside of the tank with a bunt instrument tap the metal sealing ring until you can remove it. Remove the pipes on the outside of the pump. And gently lift the pump until you can get you hand in side the tank, The pipes inside the tank are corrugated clear ones so care not to kink.

Sounds to me that the dealers telling you porkies..Both the reflector and a hole in a lens if showing a white light through are both MOT failures and its the dealers responsibility when selling a car with a current MOT to ensure that is in a roadworthy condition at the point of sale unless your a trade buyer and sold as such. If I was you? I would go back to the dealer with the invoices and get the money you spent out to get it in a roadworthy condition refunded. Try visiting you local Jaguar main dealer stores in person 1st as most have new old stock taking up room on there shelves and will be willing to give you a good discount on if ask for the manager and haggle.

Damn Looks like the wife been spreading gossip again