Mark Five

There's a finger tab at the bottom middle of the cover = push it up and then out

Hi all I'm trying to replace the airbag control module located below the instrument panel and behind the ashtray and now I'm stuck! I've followed the workshop manual to the letter and got as far as item 4(1), but can't complete item 4(2) - the duct (green dot) is loose but I can't remove it from under the bar (red dot). It just won't move back any further to clear the gear shift assembly. The diagram seems to show it's in two halves and should come apart - but it's not, and doesn't. Apart from removing the instrument panel or cutting the bar out, does anyone have any ideas on how I can get this b*****d out? All help will be gratefully received! Cheers, Mark

Thanks for the clarification Joe - I also have the iCarSoft reader but it doesn't see a fault, nor does my indy's comprehensive equipment. It seems to be completely invisible, so I'm inclined to think it's fried. Luckily it's not my daily drive and, having looked through the workshop manual, it seems to be a fairly straightforward job for my skills set. I'll get the old one out and make sure I replace it like for like. Cheers, Mark

Thanks for the replies! I'd already made sure the battery was kept fully charged, but checked it again anyway. I guess I'll just have to bite the bullet and pay the £99+VAT my local dealer wants to plug in their reader! Cheers, Mark

It could be any number of things. Do you have any warning lights or messages? It needs taking to a mechanic to get it diagnosed - could be fuel starvation, bad coils/plugs. a really dirty air filter, gearbox issue, the list goes on..

My airbag warning light is on constantly and it doesn't flash when switching on the ignition. My local Jag indie can't read the airbag module (therefore no codes) and has advised it's probably a complete module failure. He's also advised that airbag modules are 'locked' to the car, and replacing it would prove very expensive (around £1500) as such modules aren't cheap and would need re=programming by a dealer. So right now it looks like I've got a really nice, 4-wheel paperweight - unless anyone has experienced this and successfully sorted it? All advice gratefully received! Cheers, Mark

If it always happens in the same location then I'd guess you're braking, decelerating or accelerating for a particular reason every time, such as at a filter junction, so that could be a clue. I'd follow JustBadly's advice and get it checked/exorcised.. My own car often acts oddly too - it plays hide and seek in supermarket car parks if I leave it alone for too long..

Hi Jake, welcome to the club. I have a 2004 S-Type 2.5 and a 2006 X150 (XK) 4.2, and both have their own unique personalities. Buying an XK at a relatively young age really depends on a number of factors. Yes, they look good and there's plenty of power under your right foot, but they're thirsty (I'm averaging 24.5 mpg around town) and, unless you can do the work yourself, they can be pretty expensive to maintain and repair. For example, 2 front Dunlops have just set me back £380. Also, it depends on your driving style - I drive sedately (usually) for that fuel consumption, but you may have a different driving style with a heavier right foot. You'll see a lot of posts on here with many different questions from owners, and they are all genuine concerns and issues - so you'll need to know what you're buying. There are plenty of cars out there, some better than others, so beware. Make sure they have a full service (and repair) history, ideally from a main dealer (that said, there are some very good independents out there too). You'll pay a premium for a well maintained car, but it'll be worth it. The engine is virtually bullet proof, but the electrics can be a bit temperamental. Also think about insurance costs, particularly if you decide on a convertible or a supercharged 5.0 - either way, it won't be cheap for someone of your age, and neither will road tax at nearly £600 a year.. So that's all of the negatives out of the way. I've had Jags most of my driving life, and the XK is definitely one of my favourites Cheers, Mark PM me if you have any questions.

I've used The Wheel Specialist in Chessington on both my cars (S-Type & X150), who offer a 15% discount to JOC premium members. You'll save more than the cost of membership, and there are loads of other discounts on offer too.

Does it have to be in the boot fuse box? I hard-wired both my cameras (S-Type and X150) into the front fuse box in the foot well, and piggy-backed them to the A/C fuse (10 amp I think) - that way they're only powered when the engine is running, and you don't need a really long cable that would probably be difficult to hide. Good luck

Here's mine, which was easily fitted - the scariest bit was actually drilling a hole in the bonnet! Measure thrice, drill once.. 😨 Mark

Assuming the steering wheel hasn't been removed and replaced a notch or two away from it's original position, my guess is that the tracking is out. Check for uneven wear on the front tyres and ask if the track rod ends have been replaced - if they haven't been put on in exactly the same position then that could be the cause.. I'd also check for wheel damage, which could indicate a substantial kerb whack resulting in a bent track rod, then I'd request a 4-wheel alignment check - all before buying it. Good luck!

My first port of call would be to consider replacing the battery, even though it's holding 12.6v. Next I'd check the transmission fluid level - I had a similar problem a few years back and the transmission only had a third of the required level, and topping up cured the 'gearbox fault' issue (it was a warped sump, which was plastic and had been over-tightened). The fault codes might also be historic, and not necessarily relate to your current problem, so I'd clear them and see if they came back later, which they will if there are other faults present. Good luck!

I bought a 4.2 a couple of months ago, and as Leo says, it's got plenty of performance, particularly when compared to a 2.5 S-Type (which I've still got). The engine is pretty bullet-proof if it's been looked after, so look for evidence of a good service history whichever one you go for.

This should help.. https://www.gov.uk/historic-vehicles

It could be a number of things - as it's overheated at least once, and the A/C was dry for an unknown period of time, I'd suggest getting it looked at fairly soon Good luck

If you're not losing coolant and you're not having to keep topping up the cooling system I'd try this next: https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Burp-your-cars-cooling-system/ and if that doesn't work I'd look at the connections to (or replacing) the coolant level sensor. Good luck

For the boot I'd start by checking the condition/position of the boot lid seal. For footwell water do the same for the door, windscreen and, if you have one, sunroof seals, and check that the vallance vents at the bottom of the windscreen aren't blocked. If all looks good get a helper to spray a water hose over the car and get in the car/boot with a torch. Good luck

Could be any number of reasons. Maybe it had had a prang and somebody decided on a DIY repair, which could be a reason for the headlight not fitting properly (if it's on the same side, that is). Look through the wad of receipts that came with the car (you did get receipts, didn't you?), maybe you'll find the answer there. Mark

Don't quote me but I believe the headlights need to come out if you need to change the bulbs, so it should be in your owners manual. If you don't have one then there might be something here: https://www.jaguar.co.uk/owners/handbooks-guides/xk-library.html

I'm in the process of buying a 2006 XK, and while I'm waiting to collect it I've been reading through the 2008 owner's manual. On this topic I see that the headlamp units need to be removed completely if you want to flick the lever or even change a bulb. Is that correct, or can it be done without taking the unit out?

It's here.. https://www.gov.uk/check-mot-history

I'd first find a local independent and get them to take a look - there may be an issue with the sender in the fuel tank, which will give a false reading at the gauge.

How old are the tyres? If the car had been standing for a long time before you bought it and/or they're around 10 years old then I'd change them. Otherwise try changing the fronts to the back and see if that helps.

I'd get the doors/locking modules checked out first - it sounds electrical rather than mechanical. It may be a simple fix with just a new module.