Mark Five

What would you consider to be 'low voltage'? My battery comes back with 11.4v, and I've had the odd lurch, 'gearbox fault' and engine MIL (all whilst moving), which clear themselves after an immediate restart. My 'short' runs are 2 x 13 miles, three times a week, and all in London..

Hi all, I'm now on my second S-type, a 2004 2.5 auto with 45k on the clock. A few weeks ago I had the transmission sump replaced (warped & leaking) after getting 'gearbox fault' with increasing frequency - which I also had with a previous S-type (2001 with 3.0 + 70k). When it happens I reset the 'box by switching off the engine and immediately starting up again (sometimes with a rolling restart in neutral). I also get the odd thump (gearbox? diff?) when it's changing gear, and when I accelerate after slowing down with engine braking. The 'gearbox fault' went away with the new sump and fresh oil = but now it's back again! Most of my driving is commuting in town (14 miles each way), and at relatively low speeds (London!), so I'm wondering - is it my driving technique (slow acceleration and engine braking) or is there an inherent problem with these gearboxes? Any ideas? Cheers, Mark

Here's the Portfolio spec: https://www.jaguar.co.uk/jaguar-range/xf/models/index.html You might like to take a look at this too: Good luck!

A few days ago I started getting the dreaded 'gearbox fault' warning, which cleared immediately after stopping and starting again (4 times on a 12 mile urban journey!). I took it straight to my tame indie who hooked it up to his diagnostic kit, which showed a problem with gears 2 and 3. The fault was cleared and we took it around the block, and all was fine - but for peace of mind I decided to get the oil changed, which meant a new sump (filter) too. Now here's the weird thing.. these gearboxes are supposed to be 'sealed for life', but the PLASTIC sump had warped and was slowly leaking fluid which, unsurprisingly, resulted in the gearbox fault warning and bad shifts. Only 3 litres was left in the gearbox, when it should have had 7! Yes, I should have checked the level, but I didn't. For some silly reason Jaguar decided to change the sump material from aluminium (which didn't warp with repeated heat cycles) to plastic (which does) - so if you're getting the same warning and symptoms that I did, check for oil leaks! Happy growling! Mark

Unless you're happy with finding where the fault(s) lie, or you can take someone who can, personally I wouldn't touch it. It's £400 for a reason. If it's a stretched cable, great, but if it's a broken gearbox you're looking at big money. Cheers, Mark

I had exactly the same problem, and this is what I found.. once the wiring was reconnected everything was fine (but I changed the O-rings while I had the valves out) Good luck!

Hi everyone, If anyone is looking for a good, honest (and well-priced) indie, I can definitely recommend Alan Lloyd Motors in New Malden. I've used them for years (for things I can't, or won't, do), and they've always treated me fairly. They're a very small outfit and generally pretty busy, but I wouldn't go anywhere else. Cheers, Mark

Hi Steve - it seems you're gradually getting the Jaguar bug.. you'll know you're fully infected when you go and admire it it the dark! Welcome to the club!

UPDATE: It appears that when the dash-cam was hard-wired the key memory was wiped, probably through the wrong fuse being pulled (and re-inserted when they realised the mistake) - the same effect as having a flat car battery. On another note, and as R2e correctly said, all the methods described here http://www.bluejag.co.uk/S-Type-keyfob-reprogramming.php didn't work on my particular vehicle - it had to be done via the indie's SDD/IDS system. Lesson learnt: don't let Halfords fiddle with your fusebox unless they know EXACTLY which fuse to pull.

It's a case of breaking a window I think.. not ideal, but if you need urgent access that's the only solution I can think of.

Thanks guys.. I tried all of the methods listed below so when I get some time I'll visit the indie.. http://www.bluejag.co.uk/S-Type-keyfob-reprogramming.php I just can't understand why it should have failed in the first place - would mistakenly removing (then replacing) a particular fuse cause a code reset? If that happened when they were piggy-backing the dashcam wiring into the fusebox then i could understand that, and hopefully it would be an easy fix with the proper software.

Thanks Steve - have just tried that method (and a couple of others) but to no avail - I'm just not hearing the chime with any of them.. it seems like the signal is just not getting through, or if it is, whatever activates the remote locking is knackered. Everything works fine otherwise, including locking the doors with the keys. I see there's mention of a door module battery in the fuses section of the handbook - I wonder if that's relevant? I'll take the car round to my local indie to get him to attach his magic box and see if he can diagnose what's going on, because I'm stumped! Mark

UPDATE: went back to Halfords who checked over the wiring and connections, disconnected the dashcam wiring to see if that cured the problem (it didn't), and reconnected it all again. They put a new battery in the key and that didn't cure anything either (I said it need pairing again, they said it didn't). I tried pairing it today but all was silent (no chime) - so I'm still without remote locking. Halfords said to get it diagnosed and repaired by an independent/dealer, and they would cover the cost IF it could be proven it was their fault. So now I'm off to get a diagnosis.. Grrr.

Hi everyone - I had a new dashcam hardwired by Halfords on Saturday, and when I got to my (distant) destination afterwards found that the remote locking wasn't working (but it locks ok with the key, and all other electrics work fine). I've tried the spare fob and that doesn't work either, so it's not the fob batteries. I took a look at the cockpit fusebox and they'd piggybacked it into F5, which doesn't mention anything to do with remote locking in the handbook. I'm taking it back to Halfords tomorrow, but after reading a few posts on here about remote locking problems I'm not confident they'll diagnose or fix it. Has anyone got any ideas or experience of this? I'm convinced the fault occurred at installation, so I hope it doesn't lead to a David & Goliath battle.. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Mark 2004 S-Type 2.5SE auto with 43k miles

Thanks Ron, I appreciate the reply! I've just spoken to them again and quoted it to them - and the call I got was a mistake and for a completely different piece of kit (a roof bars and box that I hadn't even enquired about)!!! So after a lot of back and forth it's finally been established that all is good and it will be fitted tomorrow. Mark

The Nextbase 512GW dash cam hard-wired bundle, including fitting, is advertised online for £164. It took three phone calls to get it arranged, and a time agreed and allocated for fitting it. https://www.halfords.com/technology/dash-cams/dash-cams/nextbase-dash-cam-512gw I have just had a call from New Malden branch to say it's not compatible with my car because it needs a special bit of wiring kit. The total? £468 Do I feel it's a rip-off? You bet I do! Needless to say I've cancelled it.

Hi all, My front passenger seat belt is locking intermittently - it extends when putting it on, but locks occasionally when he car's moving, which means my co-pilot can't lean forward to get me a sweet from the glove box! Gentle back and forth movement of the belt doesn't release it, and it only works again once it's taken off and has fully retracted. Does anyone have any ideas? Mark

6 years old and only 25,000 on the clock suggest lots of very short runs - the average mileage would be about double that. Did they say why? Is it damaged or perished? I don't know if this is a time-limited item, but unless there's a good indication for changing it I'd be reluctant, and maybe get a second opinion from a local indie.

We got there about noon after negotiating the M3 traffic.. Hung around for 10 minutes and spoke to a few people picnicking behind us but they said they weren't on our stand, so we went browsing. After seeing some other examples, I bit the bullet and bought a leaper and fitted it last weekend. It was good to see that so many owners turned up.

Hi guys, Is anyone else having trouble printing the pass? MS Edge doesn't seem to like this one.. all my other PDFs print fine, so I'm wondering if I'm missing something. I should be arriving around 11am on Sunday, with or without the pass.. 😉 Cheers, Mark

That's great Trevor, thanks - I'll see you there.. The entrance fee is £10pp (or £12 on the day) for anyone arriving in a Jag, and £24.75 for non-Jags (is there such a thing? 😉), so I'm not sure there's a further discount for anyone on a club stand. There'll be four adults in my car. I see that club cars are asked to arrive together - should we meet up outside the venue or take pot luck? I'm sure they'll know where we should park if we don't all arrive together.. Cheers, Mark

I could potentially be interested - it depends on the date. I visit Leominster fairly regularly, so if the dates coincide I could be interested. Regards, Mark

I bought this one -> https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00AC1LLQY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I rarely use the car, so I pop it out of the garage and leave it to sit for the day with the charger connected. And just in case, I've printed a STOP! warning that sits in front of the speedo in case I attempt to start the engine with the charger plugged into the OBD connector, which is an absolute no-no! Cheers, Mark

I recently (knowingly) bought a 2003, 41K 2.5L SE+ with the MIL on, and with P1549 showing on the reader I decided to change the IMT valve seals once I got it home. Surprisingly I found one of the wires going to the lower valve had become disconnected (it hadn't been crimped properly within the connector), hence the reason for the fault. Once I'd disconnected the wiring and saw the very small hole in the connector where the wire should go, I thought reconnecting it would be impossible - but the blue inserts are just rubber collars that pop out easily enough; just slide it over the wire and reconnect. Getting the valves out was a bit fiddly, but after removing the wiper blades and the black valance it was a lot easier (but still fiddly, particularly the top valve). So now the codes are cleared and the MIL is off, and all for the princely sum of a tenner.. which made negotiation of the purchase price (and carrying an OBD reader) all the sweeter. Cheers, Mark

Stephen, one day your 2007 X350 will be a classic too, so go for it.. if you look at the Beaulieu website gallery you'll see lots of late cars. See you there! Mark