david moore

UPDATE,.....been seen car and she looks good :-) will pick her up tomorrow and take back home, the wheel liners are being cleaned only two done as one had tar and chippings all round it. then its wheels off clean and tidy up all inside arches and paint plus then on top with my builders rubberoid sealant. new plastic trim clips and screws at the front. then for the rear arch its the same, but hope to re-paint both inner wheels as they are pitting. will update with pics as soon as i start work on her.

same here too.... pictures, for us to see its true glory..

steve well done you for going for it!, and having a go :-) just shows how much that plastic sill cover hides unless you can do an inspection each year to keep a check on things. ive just brought a tin of hamerite rust beater to paint behind my front arches on both sides that is when i get me car back from the body shop. good luck when it comes to drivers side. steve when i went to fit my sill covers i placed the plastic rivets on the plastic sill first then washing up liquid on the ends then line up and push on, worked for me fine on both sides too.

at the moment there has been a few issues on paint? because before i had the car one or two panels have had some work done on them but not a complete spot on match which is noticed only when in different lights of the day. but other wise not that noticeable in general. the body shop guys have been really good up to now in trying there best to do a good close colour match. but as you say the cars age and sun uvs on the paint work does take its toll. any way keep an i on this as i will update with pics. cheers and thanks dave....

been in today and collected the wheel arch liners, but they have said that they will have to keep the car in a little bit longer due to some extra work found! no problem as i can start to clean the liners and also get new screws and plastic clips. ready for when i do eventually fit them back on. for now here they are?

hi iain. start by looking in the( forum) click on x type and view the posts that you think may be linked to the problem your having. but hey i think it wont be long till you get some sound advice on what to do..

ive been called today (Thursday) by the company who are doing my body work, and say its ready to be picked up, ive told them to leave both front wheel liners off so i can do some work inside the arches myself. hope to collect on saturday.

sorry but not very good photos, these are the so called paint blisters, they may not look much but i know they are there! hope ive got them before they get to bad. ie paint blisters. but stone chips on bonnet where bad plus i had three scratches.

hi darren, well this does not read to good. with what you have been trying nothing seems to work. so my advice would be an auto electrician because if you explain your problem to him with a phone call, that would give him a great place as where to test and search for any problems and hopefully find the root of the cause? that is if you wish to have an auto electrician take a look. best of luck dave.

car went in monday to have some TLC on her body work. here are a few pics i taken today, mainly paint blisters on wheel arches and complete bonnet respary, when shes all done i will update her new look.

best to check front and rear universal joints for there roughness and play, also check center bearing for the same thing. faulty joints or bearings are normally herd and felt as low vibration and can be felt through the floor pan to! that is regarding to road speed. if faulty the complete assembly must be renewed. a good mechanic will know this when on a test drive. good luck guys....

peter you are absolutely right... its the fuel pump to which you use! when i worked at tnt i had the guys come out and check our pumps, on which they say pumps are all different to which ever rate they are set to pump out the fuel. some have a sensor for cut out, so if it goes in to quick it detects the back pressure and cuts out. in the old days it would splash back at you?( remember us old uns,) so just remember take your time or find a fuel station that pumps in the fuel that suits your car ! ! !

on my x type 2.0d, as you say pull the fuel release lever which then opens the fuel flap outside. but mine does not spring open! it just releases so i can open it then myself. now if your outside fuel flap does not open at all you need a new cable.

ok lesson learnt, debs.. never go back to them bunch of cowboys. well thats if it was my car.

on my x type diesel 2.0d, i place rags around the metal body of the filter, then depress the button each side and pull off ! some my have a clip which you do by prising out. the filter body may be also held in by a spring clip to which you slide back and then lift up the filter. again making sure you have a rag at hand just in case of any diesel. when fitting the new one make sure all clips are pushed back into place and secure. there may be a little air in the system but keep starting with short bursts until it starts and runs properly. job done....

when we love our jags what a way to express how you feel.... me i feel the same too, if i could when i die i want my jag crushed and melted down so she comes along with me in my next life, LOL.... :-)