david moore

with the faults that you all are saying, comes across as electrical. I would find a good auto electrician who will go through each fault, and trace what the problem is, as it may be a short in the circuit, bad earth connections, or other cases to which it may be. just a pointer for you guys …….

well my 2.0d was due its MOT so booked in a week early due to us going away when the MOT runs out. well with me having new rear discs and calipers fitted, plus me giving it an inspection myself, The car went in ( MOT) Monday. to my joy the old girl had passed with only an advisory,... on keeping a check on the front tyres.

WHEN YOU SAY NEW KEY ? DOES THIS MEAN THE METAL PART ! IF SO YOU HAVE TO PLACE THE KEY IN THE IGNITION BARREL AND LET IT LINK UP TO THE NEW KEY PLUS THE CIRUIT BOARD, THEN DO THE PROGRAMMING WHERE IT DOES THE CHIMES. BUT DO IT IN A ORDER, I THINK THERE IS A LINK WHERE SOMEONE HAS EXPLAINED THIS IN ONE OF THE POST. AS FOR THE NEW CICUIT BOARD I WOULD SEE IF IT LOOKS THE SAME REGARDING TO ITS OUT LAY, AS SOME CICUIT BOARDS DIFFER. FOR ME I JUST HAD TO CHANGE THE TACTILE BUTTONS ON THE CICUIT BOARD X4 AND MINE NOW WORKS GREAT, THATS ON A 2004 X TYPE, BEST OF LUCK ...HOPE YOU GET SORTED, DAVE.

sounds as your having a night mare with this issue, at least with you doing the job yourself you will be getting a great insight of the layout of everything and best ways of fitting new parts back in ,( when my boost pipe went I checked loads of components that support the whole system. ) good luck with the repairs, look forward to seeing pics when posted.

peter, have you had any feed back from mandi r, as to how Lancaster jaguar dealership thought how the meet went ? also will we get to see the photo which was taken with line up of the cars ? would be nice to have some feed back from them,. dave.

sounds as if you are having problems with the electrics, you need someone with a multimeter to check your wiring from the fuse box/ check fuses, (blown) for any resistance in each of these issue's that you have posted. you my have a short or bad earth? good luck with this,

well I can honestly say it was nice meeting you peter in person. since joining this forum its been of great benefit for useful information on what ever cause. also it was very nice to meet people who too made the time and effort in a small handful that turned up at the Lancaster event at tamworth, I look forward to maybe seeing some of you again at the jaguar breakfast meets at gaydon motor museum in future... (first Saturday of each month) or maybe other meets, …….. regards dave 😎👍

nice to see someone having ago at doing the job them self, sounds like it was tough going but your persistence has paid off with a good job done. well done,👍 plus money saved too. nice to see the pictures as the work was progressing as you were going along. hope it all gets sorted and drives as it should, with no issues. regards dave.

hope to make it there, but not 100% sure, it may be me and the other half if she feels up to it. as for the time when we get there? again not sure but im really hoping to make it. the jag is having an air con service Friday so hope that goes ok with no problems. regards dave.

hi les....my suggestion would be to go and see a good auto electrician, who should check the problems for bad earths, voltage drops or shorts, also any overloads along with resistance test too. as for your auto gearbox again you need to see the right people who can check the gear box properly, where they should do all relevant checks and test, these will be gearbox specialists in the engineering side of things. not your joe blogs car machanic who thinks it may be this or that ? good luck with this and I hope you get it sorted …….. dave.

try a code reader on it, if you have one ! if not try a multi meter, and find if volts are reaching each glow plug in turn. but then you can go deeper and check for resistance, plus check to see if a bad earth is breaking down. also check for any breaks in the wiring loom ? if not confident with this, then find a good auto electrician if the problem gets worse, as in not starting at all...

sure will ……. im now working on the scuttle which I taken off, that was broken.

went and got me a second hand windscreen scuttle today as mine had got its plastic insert broke which clips into a grove in the windscreen. I found this out when hoovering out the passenger footwell. as it was damp and wet in places. before fitting the scuttle I gave it a bit of a freshen up by using black liquid shoe polish, (see pic) but I shall not through the old one away as I intend to try and repair it.

me ..I would get in touch with bbc watchdog program ! then in touch with trading standards. before signing anything... seems very dodgy to me, as you say best get more legal advice. plus its down to what terms and conditions was signed at time of purchase ? get all your facts right before moving forward with this issue... good luck.

well back off me holidays....and straight onto checking me intercooler/rad, boost pipe, map sensor and pipe to intercooler, well the hardest job was to take the front bumper undercover off, 19 screws to undo but they where nearly all rusted up, so had to angle grind them off. (cover off) which then reveled the problem straight away.....a jubilee clip had rusted and blown the boost pipe off. so down to me shed and put a new clip on the pipe...job done, test to make sure....now I need my as my joints ache.

stuart, you will never guess whats happened ? ! but Saturday out in the jag and the exact same thing has now happened to me. up till now I have checked and cleaned the EGR valve, plus checked the plunger in the EGR for movement when under vacuum....works ok. checked turbo actuator arm for movement also when under vacuum...seems ok ? checked booster pipe from EGR valve down to map sensor... no splits. also checked the vacuum actuation supply unit which sits under the car ( needs engine cover off ) this also works ok. next to check when I get time is the pre-charge pipe from map sensor to air cooler/radiator.. but at the moment we are getting ready to go on are holidays, so its all on hold this moment.... so if you get yours fixed before me ? ! please let us all know your outcome as to what your problem was.. because it will be great help for all us other jag owners... regards dave.

if its not revving correctly ? it maybe your turbo actuator ? but there are two types, you need to check which you have ? if you have time look through recent posts in (x type topic) as it will help you find what to look for. or it maybe a split hose? good luck with your search, and hope you sort out the problem..

hi martyn, when ever I do my brakes I do it the old way.... someone sits in the car and pushs the pedal down while the other person turns the bleed nipple with a pipe attached into a glass jar with brake fluid in. until all corners are done. then its test the pedal for how hard its gone ? if the pedal is still spongey and it goes down slow when pushed, it maybe the rubber seals in the master cylinder are worn and need replacing. but most of the time it nearly always works first time when we have bleed the brakes as ive said doing it the old way. good luck as they can become a nightmare..... dave.

apparently they are going to change the rules on MOT testing, which is to come in around may ? if this does happen make sure that your DPF does not emit any smoke ! for more info search on the internet.

well I'm not putting a post on about moaning of a complaint on the car, as its running like a healthy cat/jaguar. the old girl had a new battery on a few weeks ago, so today it had a good clean/wash then a run out to blow the cobwebs off, it just puts a smile on my old face of mine each time she goes out. now looking forward to summer to put me new rear calipers on and new discs, and a full inspection of the underneath of the whole car. happy motoring all you cat/jaguar owners- hope you all get that big smile on your face when driving your motor.

I cant comment on the xf jaguar, as I drive the x type....but I do have to look after the old girl, ! lucky for me I can do some repairs myself. my friend had the xf when it first came out ? but after a while he started to pick comments on it, and now drives audi ......

this is what I did with my front calipers.. plus renewing discs. I have posted this in the X TYPE FORUM, some time back. it taken me all weekend to do just one side, but the finish result at the end does pay off.

The camshaft position (CMP) sensor is located on the front of the cylinder head and it is a hall effect type sensor. The CMP sensor takes its signal from the inlet camshaft lobe. The signal is used to identify cylinder number three and thus allowing the individual cylinders to be identified. Should the CMP sensor fail the engine will not start. this is the worse case if this does happen, but first try fuel pump is working, check power at the heat/glow plugs, The crankshaft position (CKP) sensor is located at the rear of the engine mounted to the cylinder block. It is used to detect the engine position and speed of the crankshaft. It is a permanent inductive type sensor. Should the CKP sensor fail, the engine will not start. just a few things to try on a 2.0d

fitted a new varta battery, blue dynamic, f17.....12volts-80amps hr, with a cold cranking amps of 740. so I started with my very long extension lead and placed it on my little cars battery first, then clamped the + and - leads on the jag. making sure that I closed the alarm switch on the bonnet so it did not leave a open circuit. this was done by a piece of wood and a adjustable clamp to close the switch. so with that all done I removed the battery and done a test with my multimeter that 12v power was still running through the jag ? "yes all was good" then fit in place the new varta battery, connect up with the leads back onto the new battery terminals with the extension leads still attached. ( remove extension leads ) put key in jag and just check everything still works and still lights up ok....yes....turn key and the old girl bursts into life. so I do not have to reprogram a single thing ! got my OBD reader and done a final check....and again all was good saying NO CODES. so went for a drive, yes the baby 2,0d jag ran fantastic.

now that sounds a good idea, will take off the old cables and free them off, will hang them up and spray wd 40 down them. plus silicone spray grease, cheers jan for that will now look forward to doing this come summer, will post photos when I start job.